Getting Started On Knife Sharpening Using the Harbor Freight 1x30" Belt Sander

Hey FOG, make sure that you start the motor at full speed then dial it down with the speed control. I think if you are going to torch the motor it would be trying to turn the motor on with the speed control dialed down.

Just a thought. I am really interested in how your grinder holds up over time using your set up as it is a much cheaper alternative to a new motor
 
FOG2 said:
The belt i used this evening was an 80grit that came with the grinder. I ran the grinder for about 30 minutes and noticed no smoke or burning smell from the grinder motor. This is a very prelimanry proof of concept test. Worst case the motor does fail and i,ll get another under the 15 month warranty i purchased for $12.00 bux.
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You'll notice it getting hot if its going to harm the motor. Technically it should only work on motors that use brushes, so have to see what happens. If it keeps working will be a great low cost way of dialing it down a bit.
 
Etap..i,ll keep that in mind and provide updates.. Maybe i should start a thread on it instead of posting here?..Heavy,,imma see if i can get the cover off the motor so i can tell more about it heating up. Does anyone know of a way to measure the belt speed? It would be nice too know how much the speed control is affecting the speed.
 
Interested to see how the 1x30 motor holds up with that speed control! Please keep us posted! :thumbup: I think this is as good a place as any to post the info, but that's up to you. Which model did you get, and how much? Got a link?

The best thing I can think of for figuring out speed would be a hand-held rpm meter, used on the main drive wheel. They're optical sensors, and kind of like the point-and-shoot IR thermometers. HF actually sells one.

In other news, I've decided that I don't like the Norton Norax ceramic 1,200 grit belts for knife sharpening. The ceramic is just too aggressive for a knife edge IMO. Takes off steel really fast, and gets the steel pretty warm relatively quickly when I was testing them on some cheap stuff. I'll be sticking to the regular Al Oxide Norax 1,200 grit belts for sharpening. The 1,200 ceramics would be great for knife making, however.
 
Spyder this is a Central Machinery 1x30 belt and 5" disc combination sander. I paid $59.95 using my "Inside track club" card. It was 89.95 regular price.
 
Sorry, should have been more specific. Meant for the speed controller.
 
It,s labeled Router Speed Control. Item 43060. I paid $19.99 for it. The cashier also gave me A 20 percent discount off the total purchase 😀
 
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Ok, quick update on the speed controller.

Unfortunately the stock motor doesn't have the torque to allow for a decent amount of variation of speed. Once you get a feel for how the motor runs at a set lower speed, you can run it slower, but it is through pressure modulation and holding it just above stalling due to lack of torque.

While you can just ease off the pressure to allow the belt to start up again, it allows for an unsightly grind if that occurs. Going light on the belt will not allow the belt to bite effectively as it should but is effective at making light passes for knocking down a shoulder, or doing some work on a thin knife post HT.

But, one thing I I Do Not like is that when the speed is turned below the "high" Red section, Any touching of the belt will cause it to stop in its tracks. While this is also likely due to the lack in torque, I will keep experimenting with lower belt tightness, older more broken in belts and other ideas.

They had one in stock while I was in grabbing some clamps, so I picked it up on an impulse.
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While I do have a 1.5hp and 2hp motor sitting on a shelf, I am not sure if I will be able to use the controller with either so that may be in the works.

Though I only have the one 1x30, if there is enough of a belt selection to warrant the purchase of another to scavenge the wheels from to build a 1x72 with my 2hp
 
Wasn't able to edit my previous post, forum was bugging out upon submittal.
This was to be swapped for my last paragraph.

Though I only have the one 1x30, there is enough of a belt selection to warrant the purchase of another to scavenge the wheels from to build a 1x42 with my 2hp and the speed controller (only if they cooperate). Primarily due to the fact that my avg belt progression is 60 blaze>Norton ceramic 120>240>400> med scotch brite and the torque/modulation added would add to my versatility significantly.
 
Harbor Freight make a speed control for a router. You just plug in the speed control then plug your belt sander into it. Then you just dial your speed with the variable switch.
 
Bunnyhunter said:
Harbor Freight make a speed control for a router. You just plug in the speed control then plug your belt sander into it. Then you just dial your speed with the variable switch.
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Thank you for your post. However, we have already discussed that here, and it does not work well with the Harbor Freight 1"x30", as it does not have enough torque to run at lower speeds well. Please see post #68, just two posts above yours. I suggest carefully reading through the entire thread, as there is a lot of good info if you're interested in sharpening this way.

Welcome to BladeForums!!! :thumbup:
 
Hello! New man here. First post for a long time reader.
Been working on a HF 1x30 with mixed results and don't know what am doing wrong. Watching the many videos on youtube and reading the posts here makes it look like children's play to obtain amazing results in no time.
Well, not here.
I am probably failing in the sequence of actions (because thanks to a jig the angle is constant). Or may be not applying the proper pressure.
Once the full burr is raised on the one side with a low grit you do same on the other. So when you go to the next grit are you supposed to do exactly same? About which grit will be the last for burr raising instead of just knocking it off with the hard felt cube and moving to the other side?
And how about the pressure?
For the time being it's not my intention to decide on smooth/toothed edge. I just want to arrive to a very sharp edge.
Thank you SpyderPhreak and all for sharing so much knowledge.
 
Due to the machine having a high sfpm (surface foot per minute) you might actually be overheating the edge and causing that to affect your edge retention.

I am not definite, as I do not know how fast you draw your knife across the belt. Please keep in mind that a higher grit (smoother) belt will generate heat at a faster pace than a lower grit (rougher) belt.
 
NJBillK said:
Due to the machine having a high sfpm (surface foot per minute) you might actually be overheating the edge and causing that to affect your edge retention.

I am not definite, as I do not know how fast you draw your knife across the belt. Please keep in mind that a higher grit (smoother) belt will generate heat at a faster pace than a lower grit (rougher) belt.
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Doesn't seem to be the problem.
The blade is drawn quite fast, no stopping, and lifting it with the tip midway across, checking for heat, dunking if needed(rather rarely). The full ritual.
I'm not sure about the pressure to be applied, so to be safe it is slightly more than it's own weight.
Several passes on 150 grit until the burr is raised all along. We are fine up to here.
What is the correct next step? 1)Knock off the burr with hard felt and then flip the blade and repeat? 2)Or just flip/repeat directly creating the burr on the opposite side? 3)If so, do you knock the new burr on the next grit or do you do alternate passes on the 150 'till you feel that is time to go to the next grit?
4)Up to what grit do you keep raising a burr? And repeating the whole process? 5)And then moving to the finer grits for just a couple of pases on each side?
Because I don't feel secure/knowledgeable the tendency is to mix and improvise. The results aren't too good. Sad!
Thank you for your answer.
And I liked your custom knives.
 
gave said:
Doesn't seem to be the problem.
The blade is drawn quite fast, no stopping, and lifting it with the tip midway across, checking for heat, dunking if needed(rather rarely). The full ritual.
I'm not sure about the pressure to be applied, so to be safe it is slightly more than it's own weight.
Several passes on 150 grit until the burr is raised all along. We are fine up to here.
What is the correct next step? 1)Knock off the burr with hard felt and then flip the blade and repeat? 2)Or just flip/repeat directly creating the burr on the opposite side? 3)If so, do you knock the new burr on the next grit or do you do alternate passes on the 150 'till you feel that is time to go to the next grit?
4)Up to what grit do you keep raising a burr? And repeating the whole process? 5)And then moving to the finer grits for just a couple of pases on each side?
Because I don't feel secure/knowledgeable the tendency is to mix and improvise. The results aren't too good. Sad!
Thank you for your answer.
And I liked your custom knives.
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I initially went the route of using a variety of belts when I used the HF sander. But for best results... a single belt around 220-320g, followed by a leather belt with the compound of your choice, will give you an amazing edge. The more belts you use, especially at the speed the HF runs, the more issues you introduce... and it can actually be detrimental to getting a knife sharp. (And I wouldn't use a 150g belt on the HF sander unless you have some serious damage to grind out... too coarse at the speed it runs).

To indirectly answer some of your questions... you'll pretty much create a burr at every level you sharpen at... at this speed it's unavoidable. You can reduce it by making quick alternating passes at higher grits, but you'll need a final removal step to get rid of it... and I wouldn't bother removing it between belts.

But, like I said, try one belt followed by leather if you have it (or get one if you don't, on the HF it's worth it)... and I think you'll get the results you're seeking.
 
I agree w CBW.. I normally use a 400 or 220 if the knife is in really bad condition,then a 600 and i am done.some times i will strop on High grit sand paper but it is not needed IMO.
 
cbwx34 said:
I initially went the route of using a variety of belts when I used the HF sander. But for best results... a single belt around 220-320g, followed by a leather belt with the compound of your choice, will give you an amazing edge. The more belts you use, especially at the speed the HF runs, the more issues you introduce... and it can actually be detrimental to getting a knife sharp. (And I wouldn't use a 150g belt on the HF sander unless you have some serious damage to grind out... too coarse at the speed it runs).

To indirectly answer some of your questions... you'll pretty much create a burr at every level you sharpen at... at this speed it's unavoidable. You can reduce it by making quick alternating passes at higher grits, but you'll need a final removal step to get rid of it... and I wouldn't bother removing it between belts.

But, like I said, try one belt followed by leather if you have it (or get one if you don't, on the HF it's worth it)... and I think you'll get the results you're seeking.
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Great. That really simplifies the issue. Your input is much appreciated and will be followed. And yes, I do have a leather belt.
Allow me to insist: how about pressure?
Thank you.
 
FOG2 said:
I agree w CBW.. I normally use a 400 or 220 if the knife is in really bad condition,then a 600 and i am done.some times i will strop on High grit sand paper but it is not needed IMO.
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Much appreciate your input.
Thank you.
 
gave said:
Great. That really simplifies the issue. Your input is much appreciated and will be followed. And yes, I do have a leather belt.
Allow me to insist: how about pressure?
Thank you.
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I prefer light pressure.
 
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