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- Nov 6, 2012
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I like g10 and/or micarta handles with liners (of any color). and I like carbon steels my top 3 choices would be.
1. cpm3v
2. 52100
3. w2 (w/ hamon)
1. cpm3v
2. 52100
3. w2 (w/ hamon)
Giveaway Knife: Design thread
- Thread starter Lorien
- Start date
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- Aug 19, 2007
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Bog oak and 52100 and/or W2.
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- Nov 6, 2012
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I like o-1, 52100 and cpm 3v because they can be very tough and still hold a great edge. the same with W2 plus that can get a hamon.
I also like Phelonics for toughness and unstabalized woods for the way that they feel and look.
I also like Phelonics for toughness and unstabalized woods for the way that they feel and look.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 26,507
I started sketching last night.
About 7" overall, split equally between handle and blade.
Designed for removable scales, and a large cutout for storage. Can be scaled, wrapped, plasti dipped or raw.
There is a lanyard hole.
Planned stock thickness is up to around 3/16".
Blade is a little over an inch wide, with a dropped point and a small choil.
Flat grind.
I'm leaning toward W2, as it has good chemistry and the possibility for a temper line.
***
Do you like jimping?
How much belly do you like a blade to have on a knife like this?
What is there listed above that you would change?
About 7" overall, split equally between handle and blade.
Designed for removable scales, and a large cutout for storage. Can be scaled, wrapped, plasti dipped or raw.
There is a lanyard hole.
Planned stock thickness is up to around 3/16".
Blade is a little over an inch wide, with a dropped point and a small choil.
Flat grind.
I'm leaning toward W2, as it has good chemistry and the possibility for a temper line.
***
Do you like jimping?
How much belly do you like a blade to have on a knife like this?
What is there listed above that you would change?
Sounds perfect!
I like jimping when it's placed properly . . . far enough up on a small blade's spine that I can choke up on it to get good traction in push cuts, and far enough back that I can still use it in other grips.
I like quite a bit of belly on my knives. Ryan's High Uinta has enough for me at this size.
The only change I would make would be either dropping the thickness down to 1/8"-5/32", with a full flat grind, all the way up to the spine, or leaving it at 3/16", but giving it a convex grind.
I would much rather have the thickness at 1\8th
Will probably reduce the storage space but I'm not big on that idea anyway. Especially on a small knife with carbon steel. I would rather have epoxy and pins and not worry about rust under the scales.
Everything else sounds good.
Will probably reduce the storage space but I'm not big on that idea anyway. Especially on a small knife with carbon steel. I would rather have epoxy and pins and not worry about rust under the scales.
Everything else sounds good.
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- Nov 6, 2012
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- 822
I like jimping. but would loose the choil. and I like a fair bit of belly on small drop points. and I would go for 5/32 with a full height convex.
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- Sep 30, 2012
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Small finger choil, or sharpening notch choil?
On a blade this size i wouldnt really want a finger choil, but on a knife as nice as Ryan makes id prefer a small choil for ease in sharpening and to keep from scratching up where the ricasso area meets the edge when stropping or sharpening.
Jimping, i would go without honestly. I have had quite a few blades with jimping and find they more often than not its placed wrong for my fingers and is too aggressive. But i wouldnt completely be against some jimping if its not too aggressive.
I have never personally used W2 or researched it much. Thickness id be ok with 3/16" but 1/8" would be good. Since i have no experience with W2 i cant really comment on what thickness and grind i think would be most optimal with this steel.
On a blade this size i wouldnt really want a finger choil, but on a knife as nice as Ryan makes id prefer a small choil for ease in sharpening and to keep from scratching up where the ricasso area meets the edge when stropping or sharpening.
Jimping, i would go without honestly. I have had quite a few blades with jimping and find they more often than not its placed wrong for my fingers and is too aggressive. But i wouldnt completely be against some jimping if its not too aggressive.
I have never personally used W2 or researched it much. Thickness id be ok with 3/16" but 1/8" would be good. Since i have no experience with W2 i cant really comment on what thickness and grind i think would be most optimal with this steel.
Last edited:
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- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 26,507
the choil is a sharpening notch, not a finger sized thing.
I'm in favour of less than 3/16" personally, and 1/8" would be the minimum thickness I'd like to see.
If we are talking stainless, my preference would be Bohler M390. In my experience, the edge holding is peerless.
***
A side note; I won't be posting the drawing of the knife at all. The first any of you see of it will be Ryan's finished product. The two of us will hash out the details once we get a good sense of what you all would like to see.
This will be a proprietary design for RyanW Knives, and we are talking about the possibility of making a batch of them, so even if you don't win the GAW, you will be able to buy one from Ryan, and possibly specify handle material and sheathing at that time.
I'd suggest that everyone who voted in the poll and/or made suggestions regarding design parameters be given first dibs on the limited first run, if Ryan decides to go that way.
Of course, all this depends on what Ryan wants to do and we have plenty of time before the end of the year to decide. If you have any thoughts about this, please share them
I'm in favour of less than 3/16" personally, and 1/8" would be the minimum thickness I'd like to see.
If we are talking stainless, my preference would be Bohler M390. In my experience, the edge holding is peerless.
***
A side note; I won't be posting the drawing of the knife at all. The first any of you see of it will be Ryan's finished product. The two of us will hash out the details once we get a good sense of what you all would like to see.
This will be a proprietary design for RyanW Knives, and we are talking about the possibility of making a batch of them, so even if you don't win the GAW, you will be able to buy one from Ryan, and possibly specify handle material and sheathing at that time.
I'd suggest that everyone who voted in the poll and/or made suggestions regarding design parameters be given first dibs on the limited first run, if Ryan decides to go that way.
Of course, all this depends on what Ryan wants to do and we have plenty of time before the end of the year to decide. If you have any thoughts about this, please share them
RyanW
Moderator
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- Jul 17, 2009
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Thanks to everyone that has participated in this portion of the GAW! We have had some great input from the few of you that looked at this thread (46)... We are still in the design phase, if you have features you would like considered now is the time to speak!
I would love to make this a limited run and get them into the hands of those that want one. Once the knife is unveiled, I will have a price and ETA for those that are interested in purchasing one, the more interest the cheaper the run!
I would love to make this a limited run and get them into the hands of those that want one. Once the knife is unveiled, I will have a price and ETA for those that are interested in purchasing one, the more interest the cheaper the run!
I would be in on this depending on price