Glue Wars 2

This test was great! :)

I am new to knifemaking still on the first dozen blades.
the blades I have completed I bonded the handles on with JB WELD.
This JB WELD worked well sofar I thought this stuff was the end all of glue.
Yesterday I made a blade sanding jig with a piece of "t" bar fence post , drill press visegrip and a short length of convayor belt rubber. I bonded the rubber to the T bar for a soft backing using JB weld clamped the hell out of it.
today when I trim'd the excess rubber off, half of the joint didnot take.
So I ran back to the computer to find your testing post. This was good reading
it was like listening to a horse race in my mind. Now I will drop the JB for
nonmetalic bonding thanks to your hard work guys.

super informative thanks a bunch.
 
Thanks so much for all the work you guys have put into this project. This has been one of the most informative threads I've read in quite a while, and has probably saved me from making some serious mistakes.
Thanks again!
Ed
 
I've enjoyed this immensely as I have a few hidden and full tang projects to complete. I also see some good potential for improving one's mental health with all the "wackin" blasting and stressing going on. :)
Now I think I'd better try the "Power Poxy weld with kevlar before I assemble my hidden tang projects. Somewhat off topic but my experiences with Loctite Extreme Repair were failures (bad ideas?) although it may be ideal for the sgain dubh I plan to assemble.
Thanks,
Mc;)
 
that was amazing.. thanktou for sharing your time and effort with us ; as well as your money (some of that stuff is costly) . thanks again truely a great effort !!!
 
Adhesion is not a function of abrasion or "toothiness" . Adhesion is a chemical bond obtained through proper surface preperation. I would be curious to see comparisons of the "glues" tested with no abrasive finishes on the oposing materials.
 
mattwheaton said:
Adhesion is not a function of abrasion or "toothiness" . Adhesion is a chemical bond obtained through proper surface preperation. I would be curious to see comparisons of the "glues" tested with no abrasive finishes on the oposing materials.
Click to expand...

As I understand it, the idea of the lower-grit abrasion is to increase the surface area of the bond.

-d
 
Tracey great thread, you been reading too many of that Matt Gregory's threads on scientific method :D .
 
Tracy,Gorilla Glue has a white almost clear, that is stronger then the brown.
have you tested that. if what was the out come
vern
 
A bit of an old thread reborn- Don't know if anybody originally in this is watching (2005).
I do recall that Gorilla Glue did well in the other thread I believe- it has never failed me but it is not a gap filler!
 
I have had considerable sucess with Alcolin 2pack (syringe) epoxy, their superglue and contact adhesive.

Considering there is a limited variety of glues available in Botswana I am enjoying your tests.
 
Hi I am new to making knives but i have been reading on this sight for sometime.My name is James Hartman and i live in colorado.
The reason i am posting is i have used a glue at work that bonds metal to metal real good.The name of glue is lord adhesive i think .
Tracy i think you might be interested.
Tracy I am building the grinder from your plans ant thanks for your very fast shipment on the parts i ordered.
If anyone has ? i will try to answer but i am not to good at computers yet.
this is a real good sight .
PS sorry i am a welder and i have welded for about 35 years mostley allum.
later frends.
 
Does anyone happen to know if the Golfsmith epoxy would work well to bond glass to metal...specifically a ceramic platen liner to a steel grinder platen?

I'd like to try this epoxy for gluing up handles and all around use, and rather not have to buy JB Weld too just to glue my platen liner, but I know that Darren Ellis recommends JB Weld on his site specifically for this purpose.
 
P J 234 said:
Does anyone happen to know if the Golfsmith epoxy would work well to bond glass to metal...specifically a ceramic platen liner to a steel grinder platen?

I'd like to try this epoxy for gluing up handles and all around use, and rather not have to buy JB Weld too just to glue my platen liner, but I know that Darren Ellis recommends JB Weld on his site specifically for this purpose.
Click to expand...

I know the answer to this one. Use JB Weld and NOT Golfsmith epoxy for this. The Golfsmith stuff is great but can't take the heat from the grinding. JB Weld has a much higher tolerance to high heat. Build a little support bracket just under the glass to hold it up, in place, if the JB weld fails. When you glue the glass on, don't clamp it. Just place it on the adhesive and press it into place and let it cure. If you clamp it, you will set up stress in the glass and it will crack when it gets hot.
 
Thanks for doing this, Tracy. Sure saves us money and time!
I just had an idea though... what if you mixed 2 seperate glues/epoxies together.. could you possibly get the benefits from both and have the perfect glue or would the glues not set up right because of the added chems? Probably a stupid thought but, it'd be interesting to test.
 
DustinHall said:
Thanks for doing this, Tracy. Sure saves us money and time!
I just had an idea though... what if you mixed 2 seperate glues/epoxies together.. could you possibly get the benefits from both and have the perfect glue or would the glues not set up right because of the added chems? Probably a stupid thought but, it'd be interesting to test.
Click to expand...

This would lead to a separate line of interesting tests.

I had a nasty experience of a DIY epoxy, rapid hardening, that I thinned out before painting on paracord. I hadn't been able to find my usual glue on the shop shelves. It was grippy and had worked in the said hour. The problem was that the grip was like the glue for sticky notes that you paste on your fridge for remembering groceries. The thinners had a drying time longer than the setting time of the quickset epoxy. Manky is the best term that comes to mind and I had to strip and start again.

The chemical principle of the two pack epoxies and most of the other glues are most often compromised by DIY additives to make things work quicker, slower basically to fit the mind set and competancy (ill prepared surfaces) of the basic repairs home owners do. They don't usually fail, (fail much less than professional glues in DIY hands), but are not as strong. However getting creative can lead to the additives, catalists being compromised for that wet slurry effect ( been there).
 
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