Good serrated folder for hard use?

I own a landscaping business. A blade with serrations is a must. Those dirty burlap wraps and rope are hard on any blade. Ive been using an Emerson with a partial serrated blade. The serrations are great and I finds the chisel edge holds up better than a V edge and is easy to maintain.

I know thats out of your price range. You may be interested in a full serrated spyderco. The full serrated endura has been on my want list for a little while. Also i think cold steel makes a voyager with full serrations.
 
IMG_2747.JPG Ahem!! Excuse me sir, but 'pocket chain saw' has been trademarked......you owe me $0.62.
Please pay F&F......quickly! Thank you!!!
The Pac Salt has been my main work knife, HVAC, electrical & plumbing. It has handled everything from sheetrock, wiring, insulated duct, hard rubber tubing....cuts that tubing much better than a sharp plain edge.....cardboard etc without breaking a sweat.
Also, don't let sharpening serrations scare you. It isn't difficult at all with a Sharpmaker.
Brand new $80 shipped......to say it's worth the money is an understatement.
After going through hell mine still has no blade play, has great flicking action and the blade has no rolls or chips.
I don't think you can do better for the money.
Joe


Blues Bender said:
Terrific contribution:rolleyes:

I would recommend anything from Spyderco. Even though the Matriarch is designed as a SD knife, I carried one as a work knife and those suckers will cut through anything with ease. Any other fully-serrated knives will work like "pocket chainsaws" ( palonej palonej ):D even the recomended Salt series:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
palonej said:
View attachment 743707 Ahem!! Excuse me sir, but 'pocket chain saw' has been trademarked......you owe me $0.62.
Please pay F&F......quickly! Thank you!!!
The Pac Salt has been my main work knife, HVAC, electrical & plumbing. It has handled everything from sheetrock, wiring, insulated duct, hard rubber tubing....cuts that tubing much better than a sharp plain edge.....cardboard etc without breaking a sweat.
Also, don't let sharpening serrations scare you. It isn't difficult at all with a Sharpmaker.
Brand new $80 shipped......to say it's worth the money is an understatement.
After going through hell mine still has no blade play, has great flicking action and the blade has no rolls or chips.
I don't think you can do better for the money.
Joe
Click to expand...
Their RAM tough :D
 
Barman1 said:
OP wants serrated, rust proof, and under $100.
The Tuff, although agreed, is a great knife, but misses most of the requirements.
Click to expand...
I didn't real closely enough. Sorry. Now, I guess I would go with Pacific Salt full-serrated.
 
Have you tried a serrated utility knife? They seem to work pretty well on carpet but are not very aggressive.

I have the fully serrated Endura that I would probably bring to bear on this task. Not a heavily used knife for me, but Spydie serrations are very sharp.

The fully serrated Cold Steel Tuff Lite might be a consideration.
 
I've rolled some serrated Salt blades in a minor way. Occasionally the peaks and valleys of some serrations will bend/roll a bit if they contact something hard during use. Easy enough to fix with a Sharpmaker.

Oddly enough, I've never rolled any serrations on my Tasman (yet). I wonder if the inward curve of the hawksbill blade's edge somehow 'reinforces' the serrations(?).

Jim
 
My fav. serrated are my two black Spyderco Natives.
Steel: CPM S30V.
Blade Length: 3.125" (80 mm).
Edge Length: 2.625" (67 mm).
Overall Length: 7" (178 mm).
Closed Length: 3.938" (100 mm).
Blade Thickness: 125" (3 mm).
Weight: 2.65 oz (75.2 g).

Doubles_zpse1e998eb.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have a fully serrated Air SOG that is a fairly nice little pocket knife. Of course they don't make them any more. I would be real comfortable with the Fully serrated Native (more than the fully serrated Endura I own).
 
You can still buy a Spyderco Dyad G10 sprint run from BladeHQ. There's a plain blade that's just under 3.5" and a larger (about 3.75") full serrated blade. The serrated blade has a generous belly, unlike the Rescue and most other serrated Spydercos. Sounds like it could be the best choice for you.

spyderco-c44cpsgy-dyad-gray-g10-folded-large.jpg
 
While I do love the VEFF serrations on my CRKT they do not offer them on a fully serrated edge.
I believe a Pacific Salt fits the bill in what your looking for. Have you considered a fixed blade like the Spyderco Enuff Salt ?
 
Been thinking about this since I'm interested. The more I think about it the more I think the fully serrated Cold Steel Tuff Lite is the answer. I have the plain edge Tuff Lite, so I personally have no experience with the serrated version. Cost is certainly a plus and if you loose it because you sat it down or it gets buried somehow, you're out about $30-$35 versus perhaps double that with most Spyderco's. A long blade is not really necessary and if you are cutting root balls apart, you probably use a fixed blade. I use the Condor Bushlore for "cutting dirt".
 
They're out of stock brother. Really wish they weren't!!

Emre said:
You can still buy a Spyderco Dyad G10 sprint run from BladeHQ. There's a plain blade that's just under 3.5" and a larger (about 3.75") full serrated blade. The serrated blade has a generous belly, unlike the Rescue and most other serrated Spydercos. Sounds like it could be the best choice for you.

spyderco-c44cpsgy-dyad-gray-g10-folded-large.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Victorinox Sentinel OHO: Stainless, serrated, inexpensive, easily sharpened, and easy to handle with gloves.

$_1.JPG


Zieg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top