Good serrated folder for hard use?

Why not multitool. Leatherman charge, the aluminum ones are around $60-70 new I think, the titanium ones used with 154cm plain blade for $60-90. Fully serrated and plain edge blades, saw, screwdriver, pliers, wire cutters, ect, they'd have just about everything you need.
 
I'd just like to add that serrated H1 isn't really all that better than plain. Some argued that it's work hardened and the more it's sharpened the better. Well if machining serrations didn't do the job a stone won't do any better. It rolls. Very soft steel. I'd only recommend it for highly corrosive environments. Real user here.
 
well, hard to say anything else that hasn't been said already...:D

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this is the queen for me, if you can track one down

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Dragonfly Salt SE is easily the knife I beat on the most. Not talking about batoning or anything stupid but actual hard use. Cutting very hard materials, corrugated plastic, wood lots of wood, trimming 2x4's cutting through dry wall. Backing out screws in wood and drywall. The tip is nice and fine but strong. I have broken two para 2 tips, with liter duety the dragonfly takes a beating. Also its super small and has excellent ergos. I have several and love them all
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Bento Box has them for $170. Only $20 more than you paid. Think I might jump on it.

That site annoys the crap out of me. The Lum tanto is in stock......$400! I would LOVE one......not for that price!!
How do you like your Dyad brother??
Thanks
Joe

Emre said:
That sucks. I bought one 2 or 3 days ago. Just arrived.
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Thanks for all the input! I'll definitely look into spydercos salt series. Seeing as I'm mainly cutting burlap and rope, I'm not worried about the softer H1 steel, and I think the talon shaped blade might be really beneficial here. Thanks again!
 
H1 is a work hardening steel meaning it gets harder as it is sharpened. Thus, the serations on h1 reach much harder levels than its PE equivalent and offer better edge retention, and in my use better edge retention than other steel's serations. It seems something in h1 is exactly what you are looking for. Many of us here have put h1 through its paces and fond it to do exactly what spyderco says it does. For more info on h1, spyderco has a more in-depth explanation on their website.

I have or have had lots of knives in h1. Current main hard user is a Pacific salt h1, which is the endura sized salt. Lots of different options out there from spyderco in h1.
 
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palonej said:
Bento Box has them for $170 ... How do you like your Dyad brother??
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About 20 years ago, I bought a Dyad Jr. (micarta scales and, I think, ATS-55 steel) for my girlfriend at the time. I think it made more sense in that size. The polished, black, micarta scales were very pretty. It was like a little piece of jewelry.

This one is a little bigger than it probably needs to be. The thin blade stock and highly tapered tip of the main blade feels a little flimsy with such a long blade. And the rough G10 is great for grip, but not as beautiful as polished micarta.

JDX said:
What's the difference between SE and PE?
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i think they're referring to "serrated edge" and "plain edge."
 
AtechReviews said:
I'd suggest you look into the full serrated Cold Steel Voyager models, they definitely do the trick.
I own the Voyager Vaquero fully serrated version and it is a beast!
Reviewed it in the Review section of the forum: http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/...ro-xl-serrated-review-slashing-beast.1509205/
This specific model would be too large for you (5 1/2" blade), but the large one (4") might fit the bill.
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Not sure a pocket sword that excels at slashing water bottles is an appropriate work knife. Also big, heavy, and is not rust proof, nor exhibits the other desired characteristics of serrated h1.

Op, the salt series is perfect and you already have plenty of experience with spyderco.
 
JDX said:
What's the difference between SE and PE?
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craytab said:
H1 is a work hardening steel meaning it gets harder as it is sharpened. Thus, the serations on h1 reach much harder levels than its PE equivalent and offer better edge retention, and in my use better edge retention than other steel's serations. It seems something in h1 is exactly what you are looking for. Many of us here have put h1 through its paces and fond it to do exactly what spyderco says it does. For more info on h1, spyderco has a more in-depth explanation on their website.

I have or have had lots of knives in h1. Current main hard user is a Pacific salt h1, which is the endura sized salt. Lots of different options out there from spyderco in h1.
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Craytab pretty much nailed it.
The only thing I'd add is that Sal, himself, has chimed in to say that H1, when serrated actually holds an edge better than ANY other steel they have tried, including all the exotic super steels that Spyderco played with. Right now I only have one H1 knife, and it's a PE. It takes a screaming scary sharp edge, but it does lose it quickly. The serrated... I think I recall reading somewhere that the serrations are actually 68HRC or something crazy like that. I don't have citation but I'm sure someone here has or can find it.
I can tell you that Sosa's experience is singularly unique. People go bonkers, in my experience, over the edge holding of SE H1.
 
Spyderco Salt line, especially the Pacific Salt, serrated. I can't believe no one here has mentioned that yet.

;)

I'd say any Spyderco with at least VG-10 steel would work for the OP. I have a fully serrated Endura 4 that has never shown signs of rust, even with all the nasty crud it's been stuck in & cut through.

BUT - as stated above, Sal himself has said how tough their serrated H1 blades are. That's a winning endorsement for me.

~Chris
 
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19-3ben said:
Craytab pretty much nailed it.
The only thing I'd add is that Sal, himself, has chimed in to say that H1, when serrated actually holds an edge better than ANY other steel they have tried, including all the exotic super steels that Spyderco played with. Right now I only have one H1 knife, and it's a PE. It takes a screaming scary sharp edge, but it does lose it quickly. The serrated... I think I recall reading somewhere that the serrations are actually 68HRC or something crazy like that. I don't have citation but I'm sure someone here has or can find it.
I can tell you that Sosa's experience is singularly unique. People go bonkers, in my experience, over the edge holding of SE H1.
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There's plenty of people who are quite disappointed with serrated h1. It's been well documented. Most people who defend it have never used it and just repeat what has been said over and over.
 
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