Good steel for abrasive cutting

C-TAC said:
Spyderco Tuff looked a little gimmicky at first with the non traditional look. Thank god for Russian knife tests. Carves holes in tin cans and still shaves hair.
Any suggestions for a knife using M4? Are there any models I should avoid?
Click to expand...

I like my Tuffs for 3V.
For M4 the ones I have are Spyderco Bradley and BM Contego. The contego is a longer blade, but both cut very well.
 
Sheet rock, no problem fit most of the high end steels.
Sheet metal, I haven't the foggiest what's best as a knife?

My best guess would be, (and some of the more knowledgeae folk can chime in), If money's not an issue then stellite maybe? Its a cobalt alloy with tungsten, and I would imagine if any "knife" would make light work of sheet metal with good wear resistance, that would be it? Don't know first hand though as I've never personally held a satellite knife, and certainly cannot afford any I've seen.
 
Currently a stellite blade listed at arizona customs for $840

Perry knife works has one listed for $790
 
Last edited:
strategy9 said:
Sheet rock, no problem fit most of the high end steels.
Sheet metal, I haven't the foggiest what's best as a knife?

My best guess would be, (and some of the more knowledgeae folk can chime in), If money's not an issue then stellite maybe? Its a cobalt alloy with tungsten, and I would imagine if any "knife" would make light work of sheet metal with good wear resistance, that would be it? Don't know first hand though as I've never personally held a satellite knife, and certainly cannot afford any I've seen.
Click to expand...

I think Stellite 6K wouldn't be appropriate. It doesn't get hard enough to resist deformation if cutting something like sheet metal. It'd probably be really good on the insulation, I don't know. I just know that it's a really soft "steel" that's loaded with carbides, meaning it's really abrasion resistant but way to soft for hard work. That was why they stopped making 440V/S60V, it didn't get hard enough to withstand harder work and most makers couldn't justify spending the money on the manufacturing cost associated with purchasing the material first, and shaping it second. When they took it high enough to resist deformation it became very brittle, as in drop it on the floor and and the blade breaks kind of brittle. Stellite 6K is even softer. The maker has to keep the stock so thick and you as a user have to keep the edge so obtuse to keep the apex from rolling that it stops cutting well and that's contrary to what knives are supposed to do:)
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I think I'll go with the Boker Solo in 3V. Less noticeable than the Tuff and a little cheaper. The swedge up front looks like it will pierce a little better (as in not make such a gaping hole!) than the Tuff. And having only half the top swedged, leaves plenty of full width spine for my thumb.
Might buy it this weekend
 
Did you look at the ZT0770 I linked to above? Sounds like it meets your requirements. Hell, I'm thinking of buying one myself after this discussion.
 
Last edited:
I've used my knives almost every day for cutting some type of metal, the last 30 years - and tried many.

I suggest a blade steel specifically designed and used for cutting other steels.
The best I've used is M2, second M4. Nothing else I've tried comes close.
3V is one of the few I haven't tried, let us know how it works.
 
Bodog's responses and (relayed Cliff's info) are pretty well cover your need. Also, you might want to give this spec a look/blink:

Good ht K390, 65rc, 0.1" thick, 0.015" behind edge thickness, 15dps diamond sharpen up to 3micron (DMT C -> DMT EE), a crazy 45dps (use edge leading stroke with EE stone) micro bevel <= basically, aim for a microbevel shoulder thickness between 1.5 - 2.5um.

Now you've a very high carbide volume with fairly tough carbon steel. Massive apex reinforce by a tiny 90 degrees inclusive microbevel to prevent carbide tear out and other fracture. Don't draw cut through thin sheet metal. Just punch it, then pull cut at 45 degrees angle (effectively thicken the sheet metal, hence effectively increase area of coverage by carbide shielding the matrix). Use same technique for hard sheet rock. This sharp edge will be durable ... I think :)
 
bluntcut said:
...then pull cut at 45 degrees angle (effectively thicken the sheet metal, hence effectively increase area of coverage by carbide shielding the matrix).
Click to expand...

As obvious as that now seems, the angle of the knife relative to what is being cut had never occurred to me.

Spread the same load over a wider cutting face sort of thing?
 
bodog said:
Did you look at the ZT0770 I linked to above? Sounds like it meets your requirements. Hell, I'm thinking of buying one myself after this discussion.
Click to expand...

I did. The tip looked a little fragile though. Kind of like the leek (albeit the 770 has better material)
 
C-TAC said:
I did. The tip looked a little fragile though. Kind of like the leek (albeit the 770 has better material)
Click to expand...

I don't know man, ZT isn't really known for thin tips. Maybe you could start a thread asking for comparison shots of the tip thickness of the 770 versus something like the leek and then next to something like the tuff or an 0560. Good luck, it's been a good discussion.
 
Had to read that a few times, but I get it now. Thank you.
My M.O. for cutting is punch in and rotate the blade down through the material. Similar to the action of scissors (tin snips), but with only one blade.
 
I based my thoughts on the ZT 0770 tip on the video from Knives Ship Free. When he turns the edge towards the camera. It looks a lot thinner than my 0561 (which I love!)
Again, thanks for the help
 
C-TAC said:
My M.O. for cutting is punch in and rotate the blade down through the material. Similar to the action of scissors (tin snips), but with only one blade.
Click to expand...

Have you considered one of Striders small fixed blades, or an SnG folder?

Knives like the DB or SA are super easy to pocket carry, and Strider grinds their knives with a lot of material behind the edge and obtuse angles to avoid edge damage. There have been runs of the DB, and other pocket fixed blades, in 3/16" 3V that would probably be perfect for what you are talking about. The SnG or SMF folders are made in very tough PD#1.

If I had to cut sheet metal, I'd use a DB in PD#1. If I had to use a folder, it would be an SNG, flat ground, in PD#1. What Strider does best is build crazy tough knives, everything from the overall design to how the blade is ground results in durable cutters.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top