Good steel for abrasive cutting

[mycough]

My favorite steel for a job like that would be in a borrowed knife. If you acquire my drift..... Russ

 

[dkb45]

Have you considered one of Striders small fixed blades, or an SnG folder?

Knives like the DB or SA are super easy to pocket carry, and Strider grinds their knives with a lot of material behind the edge and obtuse angles to avoid edge damage. There have been runs of the DB, and other pocket fixed blades, in 3/16" 3V that would probably be perfect for what you are talking about. The SnG or SMF folders are made in very tough PD#1.

If I had to cut sheet metal, I'd use a DB in PD#1. If I had to use a folder, it would be an SNG, flat ground, in PD#1. What Strider does best is build crazy tough knives, everything from the overall design to how the blade is ground results in durable cutters.

OP can't carry a fixed blade, and almost any Strider would be madness. The thickness of the spine would make metal cutting an ordeal. A high hollow grind to that thickness would also create a lot of extra drag for cutting. Miles from my first choice.

 

[Boris74]

On a side note. If I were in the OPs position I would check into that no fixed blade "knife" policy. It would be easy to show anyone asking that his job requires a very specific tool. The Hultafors I mentioned is designed exactly for the task he mentions. If the boss has a job requirement then he needs the tools to get the job done. I know because I made a successful argument to an employer in the past why a certain knife was needed to achieve the desired rusults I was employed for. After that it was free sailing. He don't need a crazy tactical super thick strider. He needs a thin made to cut metal blade with a durable and tough steel. The Hultafors is exactly that.

There is a huge difference between a tool Hultafors knife and even a folding knife of which I have yet to see one specifically designed for that task. Around the farm I find myself needing to do similar cuts and the Hultafors outclasses any knife I have for the task, rightfully so because that's what it's made for.

I'd have a discussion with the boss and bring to light the need for a certain tool. There is not a single super steel of any brand in a pocket folder that can out class the Hultafors for that task.

 

[C-TAC]

I'm sure my boss would be fine with the Hultafors. There are guys here who use fixed blades for their jobs, like INSULATION crews (who cut the same stuff I'd be cutting). The problem is that the large inspection company i work for wrote the procedure, and it calls for snips. The huge chemical company we work at also calls for snips. So if I'm gonna use the right tool, I have to be sneaky. That's why I won't be swinging around a Spyderco Tuff!
I now have a Boker Solo in 3V on Pre-order from Knife Center.

 

[C-TAC]

Bodog's responses and (relayed Cliff's info) are pretty well cover your need. Also, you might want to give this spec a look/blink:

Good ht K390, 65rc, 0.1" thick, 0.015" behind edge thickness, 15dps diamond sharpen up to 3micron (DMT C -> DMT EE), a crazy 45dps (use edge leading stroke with EE stone) micro bevel <= basically, aim for a microbevel shoulder thickness between 1.5 - 2.5um.

Now you've a very high carbide volume with fairly tough carbon steel. Massive apex reinforce by a tiny 90 degrees inclusive microbevel to prevent carbide tear out and other fracture. Don't draw cut through thin sheet metal. Just punch it, then pull cut at 45 degrees angle (effectively thicken the sheet metal, hence effectively increase area of coverage by carbide shielding the matrix). Use same technique for hard sheet rock. This sharp edge will be durable ... I think

I believe I accomplished what you were suggesting (not as precise though). With the 90 degree micro bevel, it feels as sharp as a butter knife, but after a dozen stabs and push cuts, I would say performance has improved.
Thanks!