Gransfors Bruks vs. Wetterlings?

I just picked up two Wetterlings for $100 instead of grabbing the $150 Gransfors. I'm sure the Gransfors are worth it, I just don't know that I would know the difference yet. I (just today) ordered the Wetterlings Small Forest Axe and the Wetterlings Large Hunters Axe, both of which look to KICK A$$. The company I ordered from will hand pick you one if you like.
 
I was debating which to get. after holding the husqvarna which didn't come in the size I wanted. I got the SFA. If you are looking at the Scandinavian Forest axe I say buy the husqvarna all purpose axe. It's way cheaper the wetterlings and it's really the same in every respect.
 
glad to see you took my advice petah, the husq is a wicked deal..... shows what large companies buying power can do when they sell wetterlings axes cheaper than wetterlings themselves
 
Also the Husq handle is the same quality as the SFA. I was a little surprised by that.

Thanks for the advice, it took me on a long quest of researching the different Swedish brands. I'm satisfied the rough and forged look of the SFA. I think many people that are put off by the price or Knock BG forget that it is hand done (Mattias Mattsson made mine) You pay for a hand done process. I once thought about getting a custom axe done and it would cost 200 or so for a comparable axe to the SFA and would not have the 20year warranty and Id have to wait a year to get it. Really at the end of the day you pay for what you get. I wanted the SFA (or similar size for 2 years). I wanted something hand made not drop forged. I wanted something designed for pine/spruce. Above all I wanted to hand pick my axe. The SFA fit those. The Husq was close and I would have gotten it just based on the price ( money is money ) but they did not have my size. At the very end of the day even if they had the size I wanted, would I really care I spent an extra 40 bucks on the SFA in two years? I really think I would have liked the logo of the Huaq but the Makers initials on the SFA Kick AZZ. Anyways there's my long stupid speech.
 
Some of the Husqvarna heads are made in China that´s why they are cheaper
And now the heads thats still are made in Sweden are made by Hults Bruk
Cegga
 
Last edited:
petah said:
Also the Husq handle is the same quality as the SFA. I was a little surprised by that.

Thanks for the advice, it took me on a long quest of researching the different Swedish brands. I'm satisfied the rough and forged look of the SFA. I think many people that are put off by the price or Knock BG forget that it is hand done (Mattias Mattsson made mine) You pay for a hand done process. I once thought about getting a custom axe done and it would cost 200 or so for a comparable axe to the SFA and would not have the 20year warranty and Id have to wait a year to get it. Really at the end of the day you pay for what you get. I wanted the SFA (or similar size for 2 years). I wanted something hand made not drop forged. I wanted something designed for pine/spruce. Above all I wanted to hand pick my axe. The SFA fit those. The Husq was close and I would have gotten it just based on the price ( money is money ) but they did not have my size. At the very end of the day even if they had the size I wanted, would I really care I spent an extra 40 bucks on the SFA in two years? I really think I would have liked the logo of the Huaq but the Makers initials on the SFA Kick AZZ. Anyways there's my long stupid speech.
Click to expand...

same fellow made my axe!
 
A couple years ago I spoke with the US GB distributor at the SHOT Show. He said that the initials on the axes serve a very serious quality control purpose (as you might expect). He told me that on the rare occasions that an axe comes back with a problem in the forging, etc., the blacksmith who made it gets a lot of friendly ribbing from his co-workers. They are proud craftsmen so he said that the smiths work very hard to avoid being the "goat" of the shop by having a returned axe with their initials on it.

DancesWithKnives
 
cegga said:
Some of the Husqvarna heads are made in China that´s why they are cheaper
And now the heads thats still are made in Sweden are made by Hults Bruk
Cegga
Click to expand...


I read about Hults Bruk making them, I think it was one of your posts. Is there any way to tell which is which? also You do some excellent work. If your stuff was obtainable I'd have gotten a Cegga axe!
 
petah said:
I read about Hults Bruk making them, I think it was one of your posts. Is there any way to tell which is which? also You do some excellent work. If your stuff was obtainable I'd have gotten a Cegga axe!
Click to expand...

Hey!!
Yes I know that Hults Bruk has most forge the spliting axes to Husqvarna
so far but there will be more model´s maybe this year.

Thanks for the words about my axes and the world are small now when we have the web ;)
Cegga
 
Last edited:
Captain Longhandle said:
I am looking for an all around chopping axe that's good around the house and good for camping. I was considering an American Felling Axe. I am sure my collection will become extensive, but the first one must be multipurpose.

Thanks for you input.
Click to expand...

the gransfors felling axe is way overkill for camping, its designed for chopping down large trees. i think the scandinavian forrest axe would better suit your needs.
 
Calebklyne said:
same fellow made my axe!
Click to expand...

And one more over this way (the regular GB forest axe). Looking to add the small forest axe to my collection for a pack axe but have used the Scandanavia as a pack axe and quite like it but would like something just a hair smaller.
 
Funny how this thread show pop up again. I took my GB SFA out a few times and made some excellent bonfires with it. It fits nicely in my backpack. I was a little afraid when my friend used it (idiot cut himself on it after I told him you can shave with it) but no wear to the edge after chopping down 3 dead standing spruce and some excellent spalted maple rounds. The sheath you get for it really sucks in my opinion. The top edge of the axe slowly cuts the sheath and you get all this leather dust mixed with gun oil... almost looked like rust. I will be making a new sheath sometime soon.

Now, I know the sticker price scares off a lot of people but an extra $50 over the Wetterlings is really worth it. The makers initials, quality, the guarantee... and most of all (as sad as it may seem to some people) It like the Rolex of the axe world. somethings you just have to get and you can't compromise. It's the old Omega/Rolex debate. . . I got a brand new Omega SMP half the price as the Submariner Better quality, Omega has SO many better qualities (for me and many other collectors) but at the end of the day James (not the new Post 90's movies) wears a Rolex and It's only a bit more expensive... and you get that prestige. I did trade in the SMP :(


anyways I endorse GB. Love the axe.
 
i dont mind the sheaths on the small ones as it is simple functional light and can be used on your belt
 
petah,

I have two ways to make the GB sheaths last. First is the obvious one: Insert the rear corner of the blade first and pull back firmly before lowering the forward corner into the sheath. This will usually avoid blade-to-leather contact.

Next, I take some carpenter's wood glue and rub several layers (a day apart) into the leather near where the forward corner of the blade wants to contact the leather. The carpenter's glue stiffens up the leather and develops a bit of a hard surface crust that helps resist minor contacts with the cutting edge.

DancesWithKnives
 
I'll try the glue method. I put the axe in properly but it still nicks the sheath, it also 'wears' a bit with the axe moves around in my bag.
 
If you're inserting the axe into the sheath correctly and it still touches the front of the leather sheath regularly, you may have an out-of-spec sheath that's too tight. One thing that sometimes helps is pinching the leather together between your fingers and pulling/stretching it forward. Sometimes putting a little more distinct crease in the front of the sheath gets the leather a mm or two farther from the front corner of the blade.

If you do this, try it before you apply a protective glue layer because the leather will not be as easy to work after it is stiffened with the glue.

DancesWithKnives
 
I think the sheath is tight. Even when I pinch it it touches.
Would GB send me a new one? This axe is less than a month old.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top