Great Eastern Cutlery: #66 - Equal End Serpentine

DrPenguin said:
I agree that the spring tension isn't the problem. But there is a problem. And it has been an ongoing and recurrent problem for years.

It seems to be confined to secondary blades. The majority of GEC knives I own in the pen configuration have it. I love the 68 frame. 3 of 4 of the 68 knives I own have a secondary blade that has bad walk/talk. The 33 conductor is an absolutely gorgeous knife. Same story on the ones I own. I adore the 66 slim. Same story. Weak function on the secondary. Same for my 66 jacks.

After some long term and serious carry time one of the 68 white owls and one of the 66 slims grew to have MUCH better function.

Now the springs didn't magically grow stronger over time. Nor did the tang cam shape magically become more aggressive. The tang wore against the liners and loosened up.

I think they need to either tighten up tolerances or change the amount of compression at the secondary hinge. Or both.

I love GEC. And I'm not trashing their knives. But this is a flaw that needs to be corrected. I have example after example of it in my collection.

Will
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If there is less compression at the pivot, that would introduce blade wobble wouldn't it?
 
Too little compression could introduce blade wobble, but the exact right amount should make for a snug, but free snapping blade. It's why slipjoints are so labor intensive, to get the adjustments just right. I'd be interested to hear from some of our custom makers, on how much time is spent getting the tolerances just so. With modern knives, you can just grab a driver and adjust the tension yourself, but with pins, they have to be done right the first time.
 
black mamba said:
Too little compression could introduce blade wobble, but the exact right amount should make for a snug, but free snapping blade. It's why slipjoints are so labor intensive, to get the adjustments just right. I'd be interested to hear from some of our custom makers, on how much time is spent getting the tolerances just so. With modern knives, you can just grab a driver and adjust the tension yourself, but with pins, they have to be done right the first time.
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They have been doing it long enough that by now you would think it would not occur as often
 
DrPenguin said:
I agree that the spring tension isn't the problem. But there is a problem. And it has been an ongoing and recurrent problem for years.

It seems to be confined to secondary blades. The majority of GEC knives I own in the pen configuration have it. I love the 68 frame. 3 of 4 of the 68 knives I own have a secondary blade that has bad walk/talk. The 33 conductor is an absolutely gorgeous knife. Same story on the ones I own. I adore the 66 slim. Same story. Weak function on the secondary. Same for my 66 jacks.

After some long term and serious carry time one of the 68 white owls and one of the 66 slims grew to have MUCH better function.

Now the springs didn't magically grow stronger over time. Nor did the tang cam shape magically become more aggressive. The tang wore against the liners and loosened up.

I think they need to either tighten up tolerances or change the amount of compression at the secondary hinge. Or both.

I love GEC. And I'm not trashing their knives. But this is a flaw that needs to be corrected. I have example after example of it in my collection.

Will
Click to expand...

The way you describe this problem makes it sound like it is actually done on purpose and really isn't a problem. It sounds to me like they are making these knives to be used and the more you use the knife, the parts wear against each other in an exact way that breaks the knife in just right.

It kind of reminds me of a sebenzas bushing pivot system where it is just a little tight at first until the washers get polished down and become perfectly flush with the bushing. Sure, you can try to speed up the process by sanding and polishing the washers yourself by hand, but nothing will beat letting normal usage over time break the knife in to perfection.
 
This is my first 3 blade slip joint (knives with other tools excluded). As others stated, mine was slightly lazy, but after a bath and some nano-oil, its walk-and-talk is on target. I will say that the spey blade is not as snappy opening, but it's getting better, as I play with it.

My fit and finish is a 10. As to the oily creek covers, meh, but they're my first ones, and I'm growing fonder of them, as I notice bone's character. All blades are very sharp and nicely ground.

I did find an interesting 'thing,' today as I inspected it more, becoming more familiar with it.
Let me see if you guys notice what it is - is this normal, are your example(s) the same, and general thoughts...

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I prefer a harder pull. I feel better using a blade with more spring tension. I dont want to hit the spine while in use and have a blade close on a finger. I guess I have to be more careful using the sheepsfoot to open blister packs.
 
Railsplitter Railsplitter that was part of the design. Look carefully.

I just wanna see if any one else notices. It took me until today to see - what I think is a factory fault.
 
I'd like to comment about this blades pull and echo many thoughts.

The clip is a solid 5, the Sheepfoot is a 4, and the Spey is a light 4. The Spey opens softly, but snaps shut, and its opening is getting better (snappy).

I find these pulls appropriate for the knife. If they were stronger, you may push into the other blades while opening. Think the #35 debacle of the awl rubbing the main. With the blades' sweeping opening, the pull seems buttery smooth. I think the pulls are not only appropriate but desiresble for a blade such as this.

Outside of our 'fancy pants,' this is a stockman pattern or IMO, heavy utility. Practically, this blade would be used for an entire work period. Used mainly by people who use their hands for work. A hard pull would become arduous as the work went on.

I think the blades pull are spot on, for wht the tool that it is.
 
I received my oily creek bone on Friday and it is spectacular. I'm still working on posting pics since the PB fiasco. The main blades w&t is on point, the secondary blades a little weak but very acceptable. This knife has skyrocketed to one of my favorites. If I didn't have so many upcoming GEC's to buy, and having to save for vacations, I would certainly buy at least one more. The hemlock "green" would be my next choice. But I'm so happy with this oily creek bone I don't need another. The covers are just amazing looking. This is my 4th knife with the satin blades and NF trim. It really looks great and I prefer this combination. This knife is close to perfection. The size is perfect for the change pocket. I've really enjoyed everyone's posts and pics about this run. Keep em coming :)
 
GE Jr said:
Railsplitter Railsplitter I believe TIW = Titusville Iron Works. I have it on both NF's & Tidioutes. :thumbsup:
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It does mean Titusville Iron Works, but should that be on a Northforeld trim knife? It's says NF on the tube, the main blade, but the Spey says TIW. I have no GECs that have ever had this and I have yet to ever see one.

I've only been doing his for 3 years, so I'm new to a lot of this. Especially, 3 bladed slip joints.

Should there be TIW tang stamp on a NF trim knife? Is this a factory error? Does anyone else have this on their #66? Any GEC for that matter?
 
I've got TIW on my northfields. Usually on secondary blades . The 13 whittler in my pocket ( Humenick) Has TIW on the main sheepsfoot
 
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It was a bad guess on my part. Right after I made that guess I did some image searching and there are plenty of photos showing Northfield knives with the TIW etch. I should have done the image search first.
 
HST said:
Should there be TIW tang stamp on a NF trim knife? Is this a factory error? Does anyone else have this on their #66? Any GEC for that matter?
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Just looked at a couple of Northfields - a 162212 and a 682211. Both have the TIW tang stamp so nothing new. The GEC acorns say Cyclops Steel Works. The Difference I would posit is that 1095 comes with TIW no matter the trim and SS is stamped Cyclops Steel Works. That's just my opinion and I could be mistaken.
 
BigJim2x said:
Just looked at a couple of Northfields - a 162212 and a 682211. Both have the TIW tang stamp so nothing new. The GEC acorns say Cyclops Steel Works. The Difference I would posit is that 1095 comes with TIW no matter the trim and SS is stamped Cyclops Steel Works. That's just my opinion and I could be mistaken.
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A quick check agrees with you, Jim! I will look at some more knives!
 
I'm sure there are exceptions. This stainless 73 isn't indicated on the tang.
I may have to amend that. There appears to be something stamped under the pattern number. I'll double check when I get home.

image.jpeg
 
Are we on a tangent? GEC markings make up an interesting and somewhat extensive topic.
Should we start a thread? I have dug up a few interesting markings.
Maybe we should take it to "Let's Talk GEC" unless it has already been covered.
Can anyone say?
 
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