Great Eastern Cutlery "Bull Nose Work Knife"

GEC Bull Nose Work Knife???

  • Yes, I want one as is

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  • Yes, I want one with modifications made

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I like to think good things come to those who wait.

That just means, I don't know but I am hopeful :)
 
Yep. If both 1095 & 0-1 are heat treated to their best, 0-1 will be more abrasion resistant of the two, but not to the point of being hard to sharpen. And it takes a very smooth edge like 1095 - unlike D2 or lesser extent 440c. Not dissing those other steels, just comparing them.
 
stevomiller said:
Yep. If both 1095 & 0-1 are heat treated to their best, 0-1 will be more abrasion resistant of the two, but not to the point of being hard to sharpen. And it takes a very smooth edge like 1095 - unlike D2 or lesser extent 440c. Not dissing those other steels, just comparing them.
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I keep hearing about how D2 needs a 'toothy edge' to be a good cutter, but haven't found this to be true. D2 will take a very smooth, fine edge. It just takes longer to get it there, when comparing to time taken on carbon steels, to produce an equivalent finish. I have a Queen Country Cousin in D2, and an old Buck 112 in 440C that are both convexed & finished to 2000+ grit, and further polished on strops, with either/both of Simichrome & 1 micron diamond paste. They are fantastic slicers & cardboard cutters. And the D2 Queen is the first convex I've done that was able to tree-top hairs from my forearm, finished as described above. That convinced me of it's real possibilities.

Generally, carbon steels do have a somewhat finer grain, compared to high-alloy steels with large carbides. But I think that's sometimes perceived to be more significant than it really is, IF one is willing to spend some extra time with steels like D2, on the hones & strops.
 
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Hi David :)

I like D2, 1095, 440C and now O-1

Sometimes when I read your posts I think you and I are two peas in a pod. I was absolutely obsessed with sharpening for about three years.

DMT diamond benchstones, edge pro, Kalamazoo belt sander and every type of belt and finishing compound you can imagine.

Finally I came to a happy medium for my EDC pocket knives. This consists of a Translucent Arkansas Stone followed by a very old linen strop with white dry compound. I find it gives me the most practical edge with great bite for slicing and still push cuts nearly as well as highly polished edges.

I like to check my edges with a very old microscope my grandfather left me. Just because I like to see exactly what is going on that my eyes will not allow on their own.

I just tried to get a shot through the microscope with my cell phone, mind you DOF is SHALLOW.

IMG-20120106-00625.jpg


This is the edge I put on my Bull Nose Work Knife originally. Free hand on the translucent.

For me, having all the tools to sharpen just about any steel well, I have really come to like 1095 and now O-1 for the pure ease and end results I can get with my simple stone/linen strop setup.

Under the microscope but not visible in my photo you can see a burr free edge that is wonderfully finished with tiny teeth the entire way. I can't ask for more for an EDC. This edge in the shot has been used with no touch up.

Just my 2 cents :)
 
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That edge looks good, Kevin. :thumbup:

I am also discovering that particular steels respond very well to particular tools & methods. Seems to be an infinite variety of ways to put the 'perfect edge' on a given knife, with 'perfect' being subjectively defined by individual needs & preferences. I'm sort of gravitating to the 'simpler is better' philosophy of sharpening; always looking for ways to get 'best' results with the simplest or most commonly available tools & materials. The two knives mentioned in my previous reply (Queen and the Buck) were both finished using wet/dry sandpaper (simple, commonly available and cheap). I did initially grind a new V-bevel on the Queen with a DMT fine 'credit card' hone, prior to convexing. I have no doubt I could've used the sandpaper from start to finish on that one, but was using the knife to 'test drive' the hone, which was new. I wanted to see what it was capable of doing, and I wasn't disappointed.
 
I understand David :)

I just wanted to give you and idea of the edge I put on my EDC's, and how I do it, so that you will have a reference to understand my feedback when I give it.

I knew that you would understand if I showed you :)
 
Obsessed, I wasn't clear and somewhat misspoke. D2 and 440c will take a smooth edge, just not as easily or quickly FOR ME , sorry. However I didn't say they needed a toothier working edge, although they tend to end up that way (whether as sharpenened or after some wear) due to carbide size and distribution. Like them both for fielddressing etc. Prefer the simple steels for wood work.
 
Steve, I highly prefer a high polished edge for woodworking also :)

I'm not trying to push an end all solution. Just like you guys have stated, what works best for me.
 
stevomiller said:
Obsessed, I wasn't clear and somewhat misspoke. D2 and 440c will take a smooth edge, just not as easily or quickly FOR ME , sorry. However I didn't say they needed a toothier working edge, although they tend to end up that way (whether as sharpenened or after some wear) due to carbide size and distribution. Like them both for fielddressing etc. Prefer the simple steels for wood work.
Click to expand...

Understood. :thumbup:
 
I wish I had seen them before they were gone! I'd love to have at least one. Color is fine with me, as long as they keep the O1 blade!
 
I decided to test the blade with some cardboard cutting today. I started off with light cardboard, actually it was just a cereal box. I sliced it down till there was nothing to slice, then I tested the edge. It still popped hairs off my arms and left me with a smooth patch. The edge would slice through paper with ease, but it wasn't as scary sharp as when I first got it. After that I moved onto some shipping cardboard, it's a good bit thicker and proved to be more of a challenge. But, the thin blade still screamed through it and I had a useable edge afterwards. It would take hair off and slice paper, but it started to loose it's perfect factory edge. I have it in my pocket right now and I trust that it would continue to be sharp enough for most jobs. As long as it's taking hair off my arm, I trust it.

I also used it for food prep today, it helped dice some garlic up for dinner. A patina is just faintly starting on the tip of the blade, right where the belly is.
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That sounds like poor edge retention to me Johnny. I would be interested to hear how the edge you put on it yourself holds up. I have a feeling the factory edge was just a wire edge.

I never judge a knife by the factory edge for this reason, along with the fact I like to keep my comparisons as constant as possible. My 1095 GEC's can cut a pizza box into shreds and still shave hair and push cut newspaper.

My. O-1 Bull Nose is holding the edge well. I have cut some pacakging cradboord aswell, actually prior to the microscope shot. Its still feeling good, shaving and push cutting newspaper.

I don't always check edges under a microscope. Just once in a while for fun. My Bull Nose came with a burr that quickly bent over.

I hope to hear of better results as you get your own edge on there. I know I have been having good luck with mine.
 
Sorry Johnny. I misread your statement on my tiny phone. Been a bad day. My grandmas in the hospital from falling. Possible cracked hip. Just been waiting.

Glad to hear it was good results. I read would still cut as wouldn't still cut paper. Sorry.
 
It's all good Kevin.
I'll be praying for your grandma, I'm sure she's in good hands.

The edge retention seems good, I have a way of using/loosing the factory edge quick. I like to get my own edge on there quick, it makes it more my knife. I use a 25 degree angle on my knives, I sharpen them with the Lansky system. It seems to workk really well for me. I have a #73 in 1095 that will cut all night, all day and into next week. It got a work out this deer season, it went through two deer and still shaved hair off my arm, even though it was coated in blood. I have a feeling this 01 will be about the same. So far, so good.
 
Glad to hear it Johnny and thank you. I always had good results with the lansky system too. Look forward to hearing how you like it for field dressing. I don't hunt, but a lot of my friends do. I think it would be a good choice.
 
The 0-1 was easy to sharpen, it reminds me a lot of the 1095. It has a different smell to it when the patina starts, that the only difference I see. :cool:
The edge is polished up real nice.
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The patina has just started on the belly and tip of the blade. I think it's going to get a really nice one in short time.
The backspring is also showing signs os darkening, which will be awesome. This knife if meeting and beating all expectations. :thumbup:
 
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