Great steel for slicing and not fouling....

Use what the pros use. If its good enough for them, its good enough for me. Just keep a sharpener handy to touch it up. Dexter Russel sheep skinner

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The tool steels, with a convex grind. Like D2, or the A1 or A2 from BRKT, or O1. The grind is VERY important when thinking about the functionality of the blade. Good steel with an inappropriate grind will function just like crappy steel.
 
Any quality cutlery steel. Most medium to high carbon steels heat treated properly. Most of the cutlery stainless steels if heat treated properly. What folks are trying to tell you here is the type of steel used is much less important than the edge geometry and heat treat. That is the mature answer. The only thing a What Steel Is Best question leads to is an empty wallet.
 
M4 is really hard, and still tough wont roll or chip. problem is as with most of the sugested steels they are really expensive, not lonly that but unless youre going to make it yourself you will have to find a custom maker who will do M4 or whatever more $$$
 
Call me old-fashioned, but there's just a certain allure to 1095 when it's done right. It sharpens up so easily, holds that edge, and when the width of the blade is nice and thin, slices through everything like butter.
 
Edged_Obsession said:
Ok guys..pretty please with cherries on top....stick to my original question. I asked for a steel and a fixed blade if you could recommend it for slicing and for non fouling capabilities on bone or any other obstacle in the ballpark...I don't want to hear about geometry or anything else but names of steels and fixed blades that fit the bill. Not that I don't appreciate the really technical parts...Just not in this thread...Thanks again, seriously LOADS. :D :thumbup:
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Maybe just listen to people a little better.

The question that you are asking doesn't make sense. Slicing ability is not determined by the type of steel, neither is not "fouling" when you hit something harder. Both of those things are much more dependent on the geometry of the blade than the steel that is used to make the blade.

I can make a knife from any steel that is a good slicer, the biggest difference between say 440A and 189 ZDP is that the ZDP one will stay sharper longer. One blade won't necessarily slice better than the the other if all things besides blade steel are equal. ZDP and a few others might have a little better edge stability when sharpened to very acute angles, but its perfectly possible for a knife to be a fine slicer without having a 5 degree edge, so again, the geometry of the blade is more important than the steel.
 
ginshun said:
Maybe just listen to people a little better.

The question that you are asking doesn't make sense. Slicing ability is not determined by the type of steel, neither is not "fouling" when you hit something harder. Both of those things are much more dependent on the geometry of the blade than the steel that is used to make the blade.

I can make a knife from any steel that is a good slicer, the biggest difference between say 440A and 189 ZDP is that the ZDP one will stay sharper longer. One blade won't necessarily slice better than the the other if all things besides blade steel are equal. ZDP and a few others might have a little better edge stability when sharpened to very acute angles, but its perfectly possible for a knife to be a fine slicer without having a 5 degree edge, so again, the geometry of the blade is more important than the steel.
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+1, and that's why the OP was correctly given a list of virtually every steel used to form blades...of course if he just wanted a list of blade steels he could have just asked.
 
First off, you've been given some very good advice here. With that said and your emphasis on surviving bone contact, Infi will roll rather than chip pretty consistently- the specific knife will depend on your specific use (which you weren't too specific about).

Bark River's A2 would be my second choice. I would say a Dozier (known for their slicing and edge holding) but I don't think they recommend hitting bone alot : )
 
Ramm9 said:
+1, and that's why the OP was correctly given a list of virtually every steel used to form blades...of course if he just wanted a list of blade steels he could have just asked.
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I seem to remember asking quite clearly! And I started listening to people a way back on this thread! If you guys would quit takin one post and raping it like so many like to do on here..and start looking at my other ones and my great appreciation I have for the knowledge given on here,maybe you wouldn't post these useless messages. I asked for the type of steel and a fixed blade if they could recommend one...Someone mentioned geometry, I told him I didn't wanna hear about it, I was wrong in saying so! I then became more aware and started listening to the geometry..Again, read all the posts before you go spewin off your mouth again. Thanks a lot!
 
Roger999 said:
M2
M4
A2
O1
420j2
420hc
440a
440b
440c
8cr13mov
AUS8
CPM s30v
cpm s60v
cpm s90v
cpm s125v
D2
zdp 189
1095
1085
W2
0170-6
L6
5160
52100
INFI
ats 34
ats 55
154cm
vg 10
bg42
They would work for slicing and won't foul on bone......
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Oh come on. :rolleyes: Just because it's a stupid question doesn't mean it doesn't deserve an honest answer. Listing a bunch of different steels isn't going to help.

A2, M2/M4, 1095, 52100, or other carbon steels should do fine.
 
Thanks Josh K...And yeah...hey it might have been a stupid question..But I'm 23 n I don't know shit about anything and I can admit that. So just look over my dumbassness sometimes and bear with me..I'm really tryin to learn..sorry if I come off like a jerk..IDK what I do wrong. But I'm sure you gents are eager to let me know!
 
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Edged_Obsession said:
...Someone mentioned geometry, I told him I didn't wanna hear about it, I was wrong in saying so!
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Yes it is very wrong not to consider the edge since that will play such a huge role in how the blade performs for a particular task.

Despite the information not being of interest to the OP initially it may be of interest and importance to other readers of the thread.

Demanding narrow answers or comments in a thread will not prevent the thread from flowing into a normal discussion. Some of the best information to be found here is from the ebb and flow of threads. Expressing a high sense of entitlement by insulting posters is only going to heighten the obvious frustration the OP is experiencing.
 
Edged_Obsession said:
Thanks Josh K...And yeah...hey it might have been a stupid question..But I'm 23 n I don't know shit about anything and I can admit that. So just look over my dumbassness sometimes and bear with me..I'm really tryin to learn..sorry if I come off like a jerk..IDK what I do wrong. But I'm sure you gents are eager to let me know!
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what you did wrong was to give a smartass response when given good advice.

you're original question is the wrong question to be asking given your requirements.

just move on and everyone will forget. we will "bear with you" if you don't continually act like a jerk and pay attention to what is being posted.

back to the question, it helps to know (for example):

1. price range.
2. what type of cutting you are doing. ie, chopping big game, carving thanksgiving turkey, filleting fish, etc.
3. under what conditions. ie, outdoors, indoors, both.
4. any other preferences. ie, handle material, sheath type.
5. what do you currently have and like?

there are so many brands out there, that it is a great help when you are able to provide specifics.
 
I would recommened Ats-34 ( For its corrosion resistance and the fact that it's tougher then 440c) or either D2 (For its toughness and edge holding ability.)

Like many others have said..geometry is the major deciding factor in your question, but different steels do have more desirable properties for certain tasks so either Ats-34 or either D2 is what I recommend. I'm not that familiar with properties of other steels, precise 440c.
 
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Like so many things in life, when field dressing game, proper technique is much more important than the equpipment used. A skilled individual can quickly field dress game using a swiss army knife.
 
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