Great steel for slicing and not fouling....

MORIMOTOM · Oct 14, 2009

Edged_Obsession said:
Thanks again for the info! I'll work on myself then...But yeah...Thanks a lot!

it is important to remember your on line persona is determined by how and what you post. voice inflections and facial expressions are clearly meaningless here. there is only the typed word, and messages are sometimes misinterpreted.

as with any community, there are behavior expectations by which we all must abide.

good luck finding your knife!

Edged_Obsession · Oct 14, 2009

MORIMOTOM said:
it is important to remember your on line persona is determined by how and what you post. voice inflections and facial expressions are clearly meaningless here. there is only the typed word, and messages are sometimes misinterpreted.

as with any community, there are behavior expectations by which we all must abide.

good luck finding your knife!

You are right, totally. Thanks for the advice! Have a good day sir!:thumbup:

cotdt · Oct 14, 2009

Phillip Dobson said:
It hasn't been mentioned, but I'd pick CPM3V run a little harder than usual.

+1

But knives in CPM 3V are very difficult to find.

svrider3 · Oct 14, 2009

If you gave us what you're willing(want) to spend, some of us could give
you specific knives with specific steels to take a look at.
Just a thought..........

There's a bunch of great options of steels listed in this thread that would
do the job. Knowing what you want would help narrow things a ton.

Good luck in finding what you want. :thumbup:

Edged_Obsession · Oct 14, 2009

I want a blade that will slice through flesh as if it were steamy hot butter. Yet I want it to take the punishment of contacting bone if encountered. I won't be hammering or batoning with this knife. Thank you much.

YayILikePie · Oct 14, 2009

Sounds like an Old Hickory Pig Sticker should do the job just fine.

svrider3 · Oct 14, 2009

Take a look at some Rat's or Bark River..........better yet, take a look
in the custom knife makers forum. Plenty of stuff there and you'll have
something unique. You can buy something they have on hand or have
something made to your specs.

Again, good luck. :thumbup:

Edged_Obsession · Oct 14, 2009

svrider3 said:
Take a look at some Rat's or Bark River..........better yet, take a look
in the custom knife makers forum. Plenty of stuff there and you'll have
something unique. You can buy something they have on hand or have
something made to your specs.

Again, good luck. :thumbup:

Thanks a lot sv! You go easy buddy! I'll def check those. :thumbup:

SteelSnob · Oct 14, 2009

Zdp189

Phillip Dobson · Oct 14, 2009

Edged_Obsession said:
I want a blade that will slice through flesh as if it were steamy hot butter. Yet I want it to take the punishment of contacting bone if encountered. I won't be hammering or batoning with this knife. Thank you much.

Pretty much any blade steel will slice meat effortlessly with the proper (thin) geometry. What you want is something that will take a fine edge that is not easily damaged on bone. The most important attributes will be hardness and toughness. You don't want the edge to chip or roll when it contacts the bone. Abrasion resistance is of less importance because flesh is not particularly abrasive and you hopefully won't be grinding the edge on the bone (more accidental bumps).

Nebulae · Oct 14, 2009

to follow up M4 is used in national cuting competitions by most everybody because it can be ground thin (like 10 degrees and cut real good) w/o chiping or roling (Disqualification)

Bax Axe · Oct 14, 2009

Edged_Obsession said:
I want a blade that will slice through flesh as if it were steamy hot butter. Yet I want it to take the punishment of contacting bone if encountered. I won't be hammering or batoning with this knife. Thank you much.

In my opinion, you just described the bark river gameskeeper. A2 tool steel, excellent geometry and heat treat.

There are other tough steels as well, some include, cpm 3v, infi, 5160, 1095, S7, 52 100. All of these steels, when done properly are very tough, and should not give you a problem.

Outdoors Fanatic · Oct 15, 2009

A-2, CPM-3V and obviously INFI.

Check Bark River Gameskeeper-I or II.

Edged_Obsession · Oct 15, 2009

Thanks a lot. I'm def gonna have to do my study up on these steels. Haven't heard of most of em. Total noob here.

Outdoors Fanatic · Oct 15, 2009

cotdt said:
+1

But knives in CPM 3V are very difficult to find.

All Fehrman Knives and Zero Tolerance 0100 are made of CPM-3V.

Phillip Dobson · Oct 15, 2009

Outdoors Fanatic said:
All Fehrman Knives and Zero Tolerance 0100 are made of CPM-3V.

It's not a difficult steel to come by in bar-stock, either. (Though with Curcible's recent problems, I don't know.) Though, in my experience, it isn't the most friendly to work with. There is considerable extra cost in abrasives and time that goes into a 3V blade.

cotdt · Oct 15, 2009

Outdoors Fanatic said:
All Fehrman Knives and Zero Tolerance 0100 are made of CPM-3V.

Thanks for the heads up, those are amazing knives. I knew about the Fehrmans but not the ZT.

Phillip Dobson said:
It's not a difficult steel to come by in bar-stock, either. (Though with Curcible's recent problems, I don't know.) Though, in my experience, it isn't the most friendly to work with. There is considerable extra cost in abrasives and time that goes into a 3V blade.

The prices for 3V bar stock are not too bad, $60 will buy you a 1/8" x 2" x 36" piece. It should be easier to grind than S30V, though that doesn't say much. I'm sure M4 and 10V are much worse, and cost more for the raw steel.

Phillip Dobson · Oct 15, 2009

cotdt said:
Thanks for the heads up, those are amazing knives. I knew about the Fehrmans but not the ZT.

The prices for 3V bar stock are not too bad, $60 will buy you a 1/8" x 2" x 36" piece. It should be easier to grind than S30V, though that doesn't say much. I'm sure M4 and 10V are much worse, and cost more for the raw steel.

This knife was done primarily with files and sandpaper. I wanted to kill myself. Ten inches of CPM3V. I don't even want to see a bar of M4, (I know I wouldn't be able to resist).

sorry for the thread drift

Edged_Obsession · Oct 15, 2009

Phillip Dobson said:
This knife was done primarily with files and sandpaper. I wanted to kill myself. Ten inches of CPM3V. I don't even want to see a bar of M4, (I know I wouldn't be able to resist).

sorry for the thread drift

Dude I don't know what thread drift is..but you're forgiven..AND THAT IS ONE BADASS LOOKIN PIECE OF BLADE YOU GOT THERE! Holy cow! I mean dang...ouch...That's intense lookin! I DIG IT! Thank you very much!

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

The Mastiff · Oct 15, 2009

I'd say pick out the model that best suits you from Dozier ( D2), or Bark River (A2, and now a model in CPM 3V also.)

If you have time and want something very special Talk to Phil Wilson and he'll create what you need. I'm not sure if he's taking orders now, but at times has some stock on hand. http://www.seamountknifeworks.com/

Lots of good info on steels he uses on his website.