Grinder in a box! DIY grinder kit

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Ok, I have one final question. Is there any reason why this could not be assembled so that the tooling arm socket and work rest socket are 1" wide instead of 1-1/2", so that a solid bar 1" wide by 1-1/2" high could be used? I am basically thinking of leaving out a spacer on each socket to lose the 1/2" of width.
 
Jamie

Sorry to disappoint you, but it is not painted. The unistrut always comes prepainted in green-never knew why.

The tool bar is 1 1/2" square to accomodate the KMG style. This just seems to be the standard. I believe if you have a different size at hand, make the modifications to use it. That's the beauty of this set up, everyone has their own special modifications to personalise the grinder to fit their needs.

Eric
 
Hello guys I made a grinder my self and took some pictures of it with my digital camera and have them in my computer already but I do not know what I have to do to upload them so that you can view them if anybody out there would want to help me do it just give a call at 956 771 7749 I'm a full time knife maker so I'm home all day so any time will be fine.
 
HowellCutlery said:
Any update on getting the MAP to work with this grinder?
Click to expand...
I will post screenshots of the solid model of my version of this grinder tonight.
I dont see an issue with having a part that can be added to this grinder to make it compatable with the MAP Arm.
 
Justin King said:
Ok, I have one final question. Is there any reason why this could not be assembled so that the tooling arm socket and work rest socket are 1" wide instead of 1-1/2", so that a solid bar 1" wide by 1-1/2" high could be used? I am basically thinking of leaving out a spacer on each socket to lose the 1/2" of width.
Click to expand...

Definately! The kit allows for that type of modification.

Jamie
 
adammichael said:
I will post screenshots of the solid model of my version of this grinder tonight.
I dont see an issue with having a part that can be added to this grinder to make it compatable with the MAP Arm.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Once I see what needs to be added, I can decide on my next course of action.

Jamie
 
can anyone post these pics for me? I can email them to you. I have a new computer and I cant upload them to my server yet.
Thanks
 
OK...

Michael, I thought rather than muddying the waters of this thread by posting all the design pics here and confusing potential buyers as to what they are getting, I'd post in the gallery and then link to it here. Hope that's ok.

MAP ARM COMPATIBILITY:

HERE is a link to the potential modifications to the grinder design to allow it to work with the MAP arm. These are Michael's concepts as to design mods, but he is also working on a fix/add-on to the existing grinder design to make it work.

--nathan
 
Make sure I am following along correctly. The current grinder just needs to be modified so that the two arms are level and parallel to one another in order for the MAP to be compatible?
 
Without dxf files or dimensions to work from, I can respond based on the pictures. My initial hunch is that I won't be making all those changes. The grinder in a box will remain the same.

Once I can look at dxfs, I'll check the layout, and see how much the pricing changes. I also would need to very that it will fit in a flat rate box and be under 70 pounds. If it doesn't, then shipping would be actual shipping and a handling charge would have to be added. Depending on how it works out, and if Michael is agreeable to it, I may end up offering two styles.

Jamie
 
It appears to me that an easy "fix" would be 5 spacers and an extra tool arm plate. That's if we use the existing Grinder In A Box parts for the tool arm. Since I am not graphically skilled I'll try to explain what I mean. I am thinking for the arm slot we need a sandwich of the following: a rectangular plate, 6 spacers (3 top, 3 bottom), rectangular plate, 2 spacers (1 top, 1 bottom) then the standard set up for the wheel arm and long bolts. That is assuming that the MAP wouldn't put too much stress on those sections. I see from Michael's pics that he would put an outside piece that connects with a different bottom plate to reinforce the setup.
 
HowellCutlery, that was a suggestion in the original thread as well. To me, without an added side support, it doesn't seem like the most sturdy of setups. With the side support, I imagine it would work fine.

Jamie
 
There are alot of changes to alot of parts on the pics, thats for my benifit only. To make the grinder compatible with the MAP Arm the receiver needs to be parralell and about 1.5 inch's away. Polar bear expressed concern with no support at the MAP Arm side hence the legs going down to the base.

A simular leg could be added to the side plate so that it will support the left side of the receiver assembly. Im not sure it is needed but it wont hurt and shouldnt cost much more (if any).


Again, changes shown in the pics to all the parts are not required to use the MAP Arm. I only did it to make it look cooler. The pics accuratly show the relationship of the 2 receivers if you want to use the MAP Arm
 
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HowellCutlery said:
Make sure I am following along correctly. The current grinder just needs to be modified so that the two arms are level and parallel to one another in order for the MAP to be compatible?
Click to expand...

there also needs to be 1.5" between the receiver openings.
 
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Well I finished installing the new circuit in my shop today and wired in the DIYGIB “Do It Your Self Grinder in a Box”. Fired it up and it was running backwards the guy at the shop where I bought the motor doesn’t know what clock wise is so I had to rewire it no big deal. Only problem I had was tracking when I tried to grind something the belt went all over the place. I put a little more tension on the tracking wheel and it straitened right up. Hardly any vibration at all what little there is I think I can fix by strengthening the bench top. Sure grinds nice had some handle material and it sure made short work of it, tried a piece of 1/8 SS didn’t even slow it down.
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