Ground Troop 35 (GT35) Design Discussion

I hope there's not steel on titanium contact with the lock....surely not! :oops:
Why is it called the BLOCK lock? Once you see the inner workings of this folder, you will quickly note that a large block of hardened stainless steel (58-60 RC) is moved forward by a compression spring, not an omega spring, to ensure the proper seating of the lock block.
This was in Jerry's OP.....Hardened Stainless.
 
This was in Jerry's OP.....Hardened Stainless.

Yessir, I saw that. The lock bar is sliding via a compression spring. The lock bar itself is described as "a block of hardened steel." And it would appear that it's gonna contact the rearmost top-ish part of the blade which is hardened steel, naturally.

But is the lockbar in contact with other hardened steel parts on all other sides?

So, for instance, what is the top side of the lock bar contacting? -- specifically where ferider's excellent hidden line diagram shows the dotted line.

And what's the bar sliding against on the side of the lock bar facing us in the pic, and the opposing back side?

I'm hoping there's hardened steel channel insert or some kind of steel carrier like group nested in there between the lockbar and the inside of the top and partway down the sides of the integral Ti frame.

I'm seeing <maybe> the lock is sliding over some roll pin type things in the patent application diagram earlier in this thread...maybe???? 🤔

ferider's pic :

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Maybe a couple of ceramic bearings :) who knows, I was just guessing…

Yeah, I know you weren't meaning for your post to be the final word on the design, and I really appreciate your efforts and it's the best we have atm short of an actual "up close and personal" shot of the lock group from Jerry :thumbsup:

Looking at the patent application you posted up <thanks x2!>:

I'm guessing details #120 hardened steel pins or bearings, as you suggested, in cross-section, maybe?

In the app., the rear bottom of the lock <detail 112> looks like it's riding on an insert secured with some hidden pins < detail #124 for the rear insert , #126 & #132 for the pins? >.

Are details #122 the thumb stud insert points for pulling back on the lock bar, or are they some sort of sliding guide pins or bearings, idk???

Detail #142 looks like it could be some sort of channel insert for the lock, especially the more fore-ward point of the graceful curve along the top where it looks coved out to mate with the lock bar.

Maybe detail #104 is a channel held in with hidden pins <? If so, that'd be a neat trick to install in an integral handle!

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Congratulations Jerry and Team. What an outstanding accomplishment. The years? Worth it.

I'm looking forward to how this plays out as a Busse platform for continued innovation.

Based on several comments:

Too thin? A Rolex Submariner is 135 grams. A fake Rolex is about 170 grams. Sometimes the real thing was meant to be better from the start. That said, a scalloped surface for a micarta insert, such as Chris Reeve has accommodated, will allow this folder to get as thick as customisers and aftermarket scale-makers will allow. The prototype is what it is, and a good investment at that. The future? Pretty unlimited.

Maybe we'll even see a locking bar that slides on bearings. The potential for this platform is incredible. Like INFI, it'll be class-leading for at least decades.

People mention phosphor bronze washers... That would be pretty sweet. However, a double-row enclosed bearing set (for steel on steel contact) would still be smoother while offering similar stability.

Great comment on the need for toughness to accommodate long-term wear against the lock. Chris Reeve famously admonished customers against "flicking" his folders open because he hadn't fully eliminated the issue, however negligible it may have been (I've flicked my for two decades with no noticeable degradation). Better to engineer the system to handle the stress. Having solved this for AEB-L, I wonder if this might necessitate a variable heat treat or quench for future "hyper" steels?
 
🤔... So, in reading some of the above comments, specifically those with the diagrams....🤔

Is it an accurate assumption that this folder will not be very easy for disassembly to just clean & reassemble, or anodize the Ti frame & reassemble?
And- If it can be disassembled by the owner:
Will the warranty cover disassembly for basic reasons or mods (like deep cleaning/lubricating the folder or elctro-anodizing only the frame, without any modding of the BLOCK lock piece(s) or blade)?
 
🤔... So, in reading some of the above comments, specifically those with the diagrams....🤔

Is it an accurate assumption that this folder will not be very easy for disassembly to just clean & reassemble, or anodize the Ti frame & reassemble?
And- If it can be disassembled by the owner:
Will the warranty cover disassembly for basic reasons or mods (like deep cleaning/lubricating the folder or elctro-anodizing only the frame, without any modding of the BLOCK lock piece(s) or blade)?

The finished model, or Proto at least, will have the key parts that are detailed in the app. We know this, because Jerry confirmed as much <posts # 17 & #18>.

That's a lot of parts even if he pared it down by just half on the Proto vs. those detailed in his original application!

So yeah Jaxx, it boggles my piglet brain how all that "stuff" is gonna nest in an integral handle. 🤯

However, I have zero doubt that if anyone can pull it off, it's Jerry Busse & Co. or else I wouldn't have ponied up the loot on mine. No regrets. :)

*Edit-- oh yeah, I forgot to add >>> take note that he's got all those key parts seemingly suspended in there with some kind of magic with no visible means of support or attachment points from the outside besides the pivot and the single tail screw which likely is doing double, triple?, quadruple? duty securing some things plus the pocket clip!!! How? 😲

So how's it done Boss? Wauseon Witchcraft? hardened sour mash? duct tape? Enquiring Minds want to know!
 
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The finished model, or Proto at least, will have the key parts that are detailed in the app. We know this, because Jerry confirmed as much <posts # 17 & #18>.

That's a lot of parts even if he pared it down by just half on the Proto vs. those detailed in his original application!

So yeah Jaxx, it boggles my piglet brain how all that "stuff" is gonna nest in an integral handle. 🤯

However, I have zero doubt that if anyone can pull it off, it's Jerry Busse & Co. or else I wouldn't have ponied up the loot on mine. No regrets.:)
I'm actually digging the fact that while most of us were expecting the Off Duty of folders in thickness (😅), Jerry pulls a 180° & goes super thin & light. I'm excited to handle this folder, dang right I'm in! 🙂🤙
 
Think of it this way.....A Wrist Watch has a "Calibre/Movement" with fiddly little parts assembled as the Subassembly that is dropped into the back of the Case and held in place with the Watch Stem...that's it...The Clip Screw is holding all the fiddly parts of the LOCK BLOCK assembly. Not a lock block but lot's of little moving parts for example.

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Maybe detail #104 is a channel held in with hidden pins <? If so, that'd be a neat trick to install in an integral handle!
 
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🤔... So, in reading some of the above comments, specifically those with the diagrams....🤔

Is it an accurate assumption that this folder will not be very easy for disassembly to just clean & reassemble, or anodize the Ti frame & reassemble?
And- If it can be disassembled by the owner:
Will the warranty cover disassembly for basic reasons or mods (like deep cleaning/lubricating the folder or elctro-anodizing only the frame, without any modding of the BLOCK lock piece(s) or blade)?

I feel it's made for easy cleaning ... that's why there are only two screws in total. Now that spring ? I can see looking for it on our carpet :)

Regarding Steel on Ti galling in my sketch ? I thought about it more and I'm not sure it would be an issue: (1) there will be grease and there are techniques to prevent galling, like tapering the steel lock bar surface, etc, (2) under pressure, there will be no movement, similar to the steel insert in a Ti framelock which is used exactly to prevent lock stick. In any case, let's see what the final design looks like.
 
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I feel it's made for easy cleaning ... that's why there are only two screws in total. Now that spring ? I can see looking for it on our carpet :)
UFFFFDAAA.....Been there looking for that run-away spring. That brings up the question of Replacement springs?

With all the Hog's "inquiring minds want to know" asking about disassembly seems like that is forgone conclusion.
 
UFFFFDAAA.....Been there looking for that run-away spring. That brings up the question of Replacement springs?

With all the Hog's "inquiring minds want to know" asking about disassembly seems like that is forgone conclusion.

Like you can buy replacement springs for Shark Locks .... very useful :)
 
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