Harbour Freight 1" x 30" belt sander: initial impressions and questions

Static electricity is worse when humidity is low. Like in the winter anywhere where it gets cold. If you are in a region that never gets very dry you may never experience it.

To prevent it, try grounding yourself to the machine (the frame). Static sparks will be eliminated. During the winter I use a wire with an alligator clip attached to the cuff of a shirt sleeve and the other end grounded to the frame of the sander. Since it is not necessarily touching my skin all the time (because it hurts worse then the sparks to attach an alligator clip directly to your skin) I sometimes still get little sparks that just tickle but the charge doesn't get a chance to build up to those 1" long jumps that could make you jump and jam the knife into eye or something. If you get a real grounding bracelet, like folks use when working with computer chips, and run that to the frame of the machine it will prevent sparks altogether because it will always be touching your skin. Touching the machine all the time will work but is not practical IMO.

Running a ground wire near the belt helps generate static and makes it worse unless you are touching it with the knife or your hand frequently.

Increasing humidity in the room will also prevent static build up when you reach some level like you get during the summer. If you are not getting shocked by walking across a carpeted floor and touching the light switch you probably wont be getting shocked when grinding.

Stropping with leather is worse for generating static then the sanding belts
 
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I need to get some belts and and sander now. You all have inspired me.

Got all my belts from trugrit, and just love their leather belts loaded with their white compound.
Remember to start with some cheap knives, like from goodwill and such.
 
The first one I got wouldn't work but I replaced it and everything seems to be working good. For the money it's a good deal.
 
I've got the HF 1X30 and one of the things told to me by the professional knife sharpener was that you want very little pressure on the blade. He said use a light touch. I have and it works. What happens is that if you push a little too hard you will create a curl because the belt will bend around the edge of the knife. He said many of the folks that call to ask for help are pushing too hard on the belt. I have the back stop in place, but generally move the blade up avoe the support and run it across just down from the upper pully. You don't get any "pop" there. Worst thing I have is static build upt and a spark to my hand that "surprises" me, but doesn't hurt me.

The key is the right angle with just the very light touch.
 
If anyone has a link to the shoptalk thread please post it. I'm probably going to have a good amount of blades to sharpen later this week and would like to find an easy way to prevent the shocks.

I went, Sunday, to the Computers N More store and picked up a grounding attachment. It is an alligator clip on one end and a snap with wrist bracelet on the other end, coiled light gauge wire inbetween. Merely apply the alligator clamp to the frame of the grinder, put on the wrist bracelet (I used my right hand) and sharpen. No more electric "surprises" They use these a lot in the computer industry to prevent a static electric shok that will KILL delicate memory modules, and other circuit boads, including mother boards, add on boards, or even hard drives.

Tried it out last night and works great!
 
Hi guys,

I just bought a HF 1x30 and I have a few questions / concerns about it...

To begin, the belt tends to track to the left even when I tighten the knob to what is probably an unreasonable amount (I have to use a wrench). And even when it's as centered as it gets, the top wheel is not centered horizontally with the space in the spark guard. It also doesn't seem to be centered above the belt support.

Have you ever had to modify this? Should I try to exchange it for another one?

Also, do you use the spark guard? I can't seem to figure out how to change a belt when it's on.

Thanks a bunch.
 
My method on the kitchen knives eventually progressed to thinning the edge down to about 30 degrees inclusive (I did a couple of cleavers and left their edges much thicker) with the 180, and then going straight to removing the burr with the Sharpmaker medium rods. It gave the knives what I felt was a good working edge that would shave with some pushing. So, I'm jumping grits big time, yet it seems to work. Comments? :confused:

That will work well. You're probably giving it a microbevel, and since you're working directly on the edge (as opposed to entire surface area of the bevels), it's easy to get that burr off and put a fine edge on the blade. You could just finish up with the higher grit Spyderco rods, and anything you do to the bevels after that becomes purely cosmetic.

omg... I just responded to a 4 year-old post...
 
Hi guys,

I just bought a HF 1x30 and I have a few questions / concerns about it...

To begin, the belt tends to track to the left even when I tighten the knob to what is probably an unreasonable amount (I have to use a wrench). And even when it's as centered as it gets, the top wheel is not centered horizontally with the space in the spark guard. It also doesn't seem to be centered above the belt support.

Have you ever had to modify this? Should I try to exchange it for another one?

Also, do you use the spark guard? I can't seem to figure out how to change a belt when it's on.

Thanks a bunch.

My HF 1x30 is designed so that the top idler pushes the belt to the right, and the adjustable idler barely needs tightened, so that it pushes the belt to the left. Try leaving the dust cover off, turning it on for a second, see which way it tracks, turn it off, adjust and repeat until it tracks straight.
 
I'm also considering this belt sander.

When I look at the Lee Valley site, I'm only able to find 1x30 belts up to 320 grit. I haven't located any finer grit anywhere else, either. This is holding me back from ordering.....

Stay sharp, TO ORDER BELTS TRY POPS KNIFE SUPPLY,GO TO YOUTUBE BELTSANDER KNIFE SHARPENERS,SEE HOW ITS DONE.220 GRIT SHARPEN 2 PASSES, DIP IN WATER TO COOL,THEN LEATHER BELT IT 1 PASS.USING PROPER ANGLE IS THE KEY.I LAY THE GRINDER DOWN,SO THE BELT IS FLAT GOING AWAY FROM YOU,MUCH EASIER TO SEE AND CONTROL.
 
Try here: http://www.theedgemasters.com/SharpeningSuppliesforSale.html?gclid=CMultJGGzaYCFUdN4Aod_0chIw I have used his belts that come from Germany all the way up through 1000 grit. I have not had his diamond belts yet. I have put a new bevel on old discarded straight razors as a start using the 1000 grit belt. I have even turned a broken tipped AK-SAR-BEN straight razor into a useful razor, and shaved with it by eliminating the chip in the front edge of the blade, re-contouring the square point razor into a round point. Some was done with a Dremmel, but the reworking of the front edge to git rid of the chip was done with the Harbor Freight and the 800 and 1000 grit belts. Raazor was originally made by Grah & Plumacher in Solingen Germany, and it now shaves like a champ!

aksarben_b4_L.jpg


aksarben_b4_notch.jpg


aksarben_after_L.jpg


I finished up with a 00 Frictionite Hone I have from American Hone Company, Moravia, IA.
 
Love this thread, old or not, and +1 to Jeff's posts!

Just got mine and am waiting for belts.

Question .. on leather stropping belts, does anyone have a good source for a recommended one?
I ordered one from Trugrit with my belts, but they only had 1 option. Also order mainly Kingspor belts Aluminum Oxides (800 grit they only showed a silicon carbide so got them) and Norax A.O.s @ 1200 and 3k.

If anyone has a fave leather 1 x 30 much appreciated.
Also what belts you've learned are best for the application.

Thanks for a great thread!
 
Try here: http://www.theedgemasters.com/SharpeningSuppliesforSale.html?gclid=CMultJGGzaYCFUdN4Aod_0chIw I have used his belts that come from Germany all the way up through 1000 grit. I have not had his diamond belts yet. I have put a new bevel on old discarded straight razors as a start using the 1000 grit belt. I have even turned a broken tipped AK-SAR-BEN straight razor into a useful razor, and shaved with it by eliminating the chip in the front edge of the blade, re-contouring the square point razor into a round point. Some was done with a Dremmel, but the reworking of the front edge to git rid of the chip was done with the Harbor Freight and the 800 and 1000 grit belts. Raazor was originally made by Grah & Plumacher in Solingen Germany, and it now shaves like a champ!

aksarben_b4_L.jpg


aksarben_b4_notch.jpg


aksarben_after_L.jpg


I finished up with a 00 Frictionite Hone I have from American Hone Company, Moravia, IA.

AK, I'm kinda new to this.
How did you get the polish on the body?
Impressive.
 
Love this thread, old or not, and +1 to Jeff's posts!

Just got mine and am waiting for belts.

Question .. on leather stropping belts, does anyone have a good source for a recommended one?
I ordered one from Trugrit with my belts, but they only had 1 option. Also order mainly Kingspor belts Aluminum Oxides (800 grit they only showed a silicon carbide so got them) and Norax A.O.s @ 1200 and 3k.

If anyone has a fave leather 1 x 30 much appreciated.
Also what belts you've learned are best for the application.

Thanks for a great thread!

i think lee valley has the 1x30 leather belts ,,
 
i think lee valley has the 1x30 leather belts ,,

I saw that Vic,
I opted for the $12 one on Trugrit as I was ordering the belts from there anyway.

Just was wondering if anyone found "the" perfect leather belt or are they all the same.
Same with the sending belts as I'm not familiar with quality.

For instance, on Pop's sight, I see Klingspors cheap up to 800 ... special order for j flex ..... no idea which is preffered so looking for input.

Just saw something interesting .... a video of a guy sanding down a satin finish and bringing it up to a mirror finish.
He used an air sander 6" going from 600 to 3k grit, then a compound.
Am thinking this may directly apply to the 1 x 30 as well ... all the pieces of the puzzle are there.
 
Just wanted to say thanks for a great thread.

Just got the belts in and grabbed a Craftsman Adjustable Pedestal (they're on clearance BTW right now and not on the floor??? ... $40).
Still waiting on the felt belts.

After reviewing and digesting all these posts, bolted her on, took cheapo folder, sharpied the edge plus a bit extra to give me a guide, several passes and and brought it to bur with 400.
Then 800, 1200, 3K than leather strop with green .5 Chromium Oxide.

Being careful and methodical, I got it polished and shaving sharp, paper slicing with ease (slightly toothy, I'm not gonna put too much weight in the quality of a $11 Chinese Bee folder) with an even edge (Haven't measured it yet but am assuming I'm in the 20 degree zone from it's looks and it removed some lows the factory edge had).

Basically, no problems, no belt travel, quiet, smooth ... and scariest of all ... got it done in a quarter of the time I would have spent on the WEPS!

Now, I'm not throwing away my WEPS any time soon but damn!

All said, extremely impressed, especially for a first try :) And Thanks all once again for a great thread!

Looking forward to playing with this more, as well as exploring the diamond sprays on the felt.

I'd say for getting a fast, better than factory edge on someone's kitchen knife in under 5 minutes is doable.

Sorry if I sound over excited, but this is an eye opener! :)
Now, if I only had the loot for a variable speed 1 x 30 or 42 ;)
 
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