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Harley Chain to Double Edge Boot Knife

Bruuuuuuuce, yer killin' us here with the suspense!!!! :) Looking forward to watching and learning from your progress.
 
GibsonFan said:
Bruuuuuuuce, yer killin' us here with the suspense!!!! :) Looking forward to watching and learning from your progress.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I was working on my shop today. Im putting in a 200 amp service so I can expand. I want to buy a rockwell tester and a surface grinder for starters. Its going to be nice to have clean room and a welding room.

I will try to git back on it friday and saturday. Im glad you are interested.
 
Bruce,

For your forge do you use a temp controlling system, or visually monitor and manual adjust?

Does your press have a tendency to bend the steel away from the main beam when using?

I really like the dye sets you use for creating your canaster damascus, especially your welding dye, is seems to concentrate the pressure in a smaller area.

Very nice, thanks for sharing.
 
T Blade said:
Bruce,

For your forge do you use a temp controlling system, or visually monitor and manual adjust?

Does your press have a tendency to bend the steel away from the main beam when using?

I really like the dye sets you use for creating your canaster damascus, especially your welding dye, is seems to concentrate the pressure in a smaller area.

Very nice, thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...

The temp is controlled manually. Its fan blown with a door on it and the forge has a small air release door on the manifold also each of the 3 burners have a propane valve in addition to the main control valve.

This press does like to make bannana shaped bars if the dies start to wear. I have to clean them on the grinder sometimes to true them. I have to be careful to keep all the real pressure in line with the ram to avoid bending the anvil. Notice the long dies are both bent on the ends? The next die and holder design will be very short.
 
I had some time today so here we go again

Heres what I had in mind for the design. I know it looks abit crude now but it will straighten out later I promise. The bar is cut to length and squared on both edges so it will clamp tight in my milling machine vice.
 
The first shot is of my table top mill from China. Im milling the edges.

Next I mill off the mild steel canister on one side, it comes off easy but the mild steel seperator on the other side takes allot of milling to finally get it off.
 
here is some shots of that dang seperator. Its easy to see mild steel when milling, notice how white it is? The next shot shows it is gone finally.

You can see the before thickness and the final thickness here. It is close to 1/4" thick still and should make some nice hollow grinds on a 5" wheel.

I ground off the milling tool marks to about 220 grit and gave it a quick dip in the ferric cloride to see the pattern is even on both sides. It looks pretty good I think. The pins are really visible now and the plates will show up later Im sure. The powdered 1084 looks like it has micro pits, not a bad thing but interesting and should have a cool texture when completed. The 1084 powder was really coarse grained which I believe explains the texture.
 
Here is the pattern. Dont worry Im sure it will show some more activity after the heat-treat and a real acid etching

I cut out the general paper pattern, folded it in half and cut out the correct shape. Daggers need to be symetrical and this is an easy way to do that.

The elmers glue holds it on the steel great. be careful to keep it straight because the glue makes the paper wet and could dry crooked, duh
 
bandsawing comes next, staying very close to the lines.

The file guide and a chain saw file works good for the rounded notches at the ricasso.

Notice the straight line from tip to center of the pommel? It is easy to measure with calipers from that line to the profile and use the disc grinder to make it symetric. The inside curves will be cleaned up with a foredom
 
Nice toot Bruce
my time is limited right now but
let me know if you will, before you take the pictures down,
and I'll work up a web page to put it all on and put it in lights if you'd like? :)
that way you or BFC won't have to host any of the pictures..

nice job :thumbup:
 
Dan Gray said:
Nice toot Bruce
my time is limited right now but
let me know if you will, before you take the pictures down,
and I'll work up a web page to put it all on and put it in lights if you'd like? :)
that way you or BFC won't have to host any of the pictures..

nice job :thumbup:
Click to expand...

That would be great of ya Dan. Im getting too many images up and may not be able to finish at the rate Im going.
 
Bruce Bump said:
That would be great of ya Dan. Im getting too many images up and may not be able to finish at the rate Im going.
Click to expand...


not a problem Bruce, I hope you can hang on until I can get it done..
I'm talking a few days..:( sux living away from home/shop it limits my time badly..all my programs are in this putter at home..:o
 
Bruce, I'm getting a lot out of your photo tutorial. For instance, I have always used my KMG to get to the point you're at now with this knife. It never occured to me to use my Enco mill and a fly cutter. Duh!
Anyhow, This is a really nice thing you're doing here taking the time to photograph and write up the text for the pictures. Next, maybe you'd consider doing the same thing for one of your knive/pistols???????
 
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