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Harley Chain to Double Edge Boot Knife

Hey Bruce Here you go:thumbup:

http://brucebump.homestead.com/hdchaintut.html

Just post this link in your first post with a message that you will be adding the new pictures and then take the old ones off if you need to..You can do this by hitting the edit button on the first post.

Dan can just make a link to this site....Jjust keep doing this thread as you have been so those that are following it can see the larger pictures now and I will put the new pic's and info on the page for you...Let me know if it looks OK or do I need to change the text color...

Bruce
 
Bruce Evans said:
Hey Bruce Here you go:thumbup:

http://brucebump.homestead.com/hdchaintut.html

Just post this link in your first post with a message that you will be adding the new pictures and then take the old ones off if you need to..You can do this by hitting the edit button on the first post.

Dan can just make a link to this site....Jjust keep doing this thread as you have been so those that are following it can see the larger pictures now and I will put the new pic's and info on the page for you...Let me know if it looks OK or do I need to change the text color...

Bruce
Click to expand...

Thanks for doing this Bruce. I didnt realize I was so "camera happy". Its not even heat treated yet so Im sure I will need to delete some of my images in old threads to make room here.
 
excellent pictorial Bruce. Thanks for taking the time to contribute to the community like this.
 
Bruce Evans said:
Hey Bruce Here you go:thumbup:

http://brucebump.homestead.com/hdchaintut.html

Just post this link in your first post with a message that you will be adding the new pictures and then take the old ones off if you need to..You can do this by hitting the edit button on the first post.

Dan can just make a link to this site....Jjust keep doing this thread as you have been so those that are following it can see the larger pictures now and I will put the new pic's and info on the page for you...Let me know if it looks OK or do I need to change the text color...

Bruce
Click to expand...

great :thumbup: that will free up my time some,,RRRR ALOT..:)
 
I had some time today so I laid out the holes. The center holes are drilled with a #30 bit for 1/8" pins and the outside holes are #51 for 1/16" pins. The lanyard hole is 1/4"

I like to use a compass to draw the arcs on the paper.
Notice there are now 2 lines down the center? Yes the first one was off center so I had to draw another one.
 
Next comes the best feature of this knife. IG and Harley Riders everywhere will approve.

Just a little filing in the right places and 2 Blue Moons later it works.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Next comes the best feature of this knife. IG and Harley Riders everywhere will approve.

Just a little filing in the right places and 2 Blue Moons later it works.
Click to expand...


Dangit your good, now if only you could use that sucker in a bar. Theres a usefull design element that looks great to boot.
 
A couple thumbrests would go good with this one. I used a checkering file to score the spacing and finished them up with a small 3 sided file. After heat-treating I will clean them up with a 3 sided diamond file

Also I finally ground off the paper template.

Heat treating is next. Im going to grind the bevels and taper the tang after HT
 
I am really enjoying this Bruce, Thanks for taking the time to do this !



Glenn Dykes
Louisiana
 
Back at it today for the HT

I heated the blade to 600f in my Even Heat digital oven and sprinkled it with PBC from Brownells. It keeps the scale from forming and rinses off with water after the quench.

See the spring blue color in the blade? That is 600F and you can see the PBC isnt melting yet so back in the oven to about 700-800f for the second dose. I had to flatten out the bubbles on the second sprinkling and back in the oven to 1500f

I used the propane torch on my vertical quench tank and probed it with my thermocouple. I stopped at 135f

OH, thats Tough Quench in there
 
The temp went up to 1500+- and soaked for about 5 minutes until I could find my gloves and the tongs.
 
The camera flashed just before the blade came into view from the oven into the quench and Im not going to do it again...dangit, it flamed up nice too! Well actually the tough quench is pretty tame stuff.

After the quench I took it out while it is still smoking to check for warpage. It was straight as an arrow thanks to the normalizing thermal cycles I forgot to talk about. The annealing also helps stress relief increasing the chances of success out of the quench. If it is warped you get a minute or so to striaghten it before it gets too brittle. I just put it back in the straightening dies if it shows any signs of warpage. I like my press

Rinsed off the PBC with water

Passed the file test and showed a shower of sparks. Yep its hard now.
 
At times like this Im glad Kaye bought this digital kitchen stove. Its accurate within + or - 10 deg.f Anyway 395f for one hour after pre-heating it should do it for tempering.

When tapering the tang, I like to grind a steep angle on both sides of the pommel (like chisel grind almost) the same depth, to establish the center and its depth. Next hollow grind out the center of the tang with the 5" wheel and then flatten the tang on the flat platen. The disc grinder works well for tapering tang also. The push stick is handy to keep the pressure where I want it and save the fingers.

I tapered this tang from the pommel all the way to the ricasso.
 
Wow don't mean to go off topic but i have never really looked at your work until now and I am really impressed, your Outlaw Bowie is absolutely stunning.
 
I use a height gauge to see if the tip needs to be ground on one side or the other. It should be the same height on both sides when pressing the flat tapered tang down against the granite block.

Blue layout fluid works good and is durable throughout the grinding process. It shows the scribed lines very well. The height gauge has a carbide edge that marks the dual lines on both edges.

Scribe down the center on the sides with a straight edge to establish where the center ridge will be. That little square is handy to align the filing/grinding guide perpendicular to the center line.

Simply grind out everything between the lines. Im hollow grinding on a 5" wheel and a new 80 grit belt. My Burr King is single speed but with the small diameter wheel it seems slow and controlable.
I like the small wheel for hollow grinding because it shows definition and stays in the groove. The ridge needs to stay sharp so be careful to stay off of it.

I can only make one or two passes and the blade needs to be dunked in water to cool it. If overheated the hardness will be harmed and there will be no more line to follow. I grind bare handed to feel the heat.

note: there is a scratch that looks like a scribed line in the 4th picture, also please excuse the blurry pic.
 
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