Has anyone done a any lubrication friction testing?

So... since this is about action as well as lubrication... lets just put this out there that if you want better smoother action you will want a flat detent.

and just to re-affirm this... here is Nicks disassembly and review of a knife with a flat stainless steel detent.



Next, how can you make your own detents flat? Note that im not saying if you make your current knives have a flat detent they are going to work like this, mostly because they were not designed or tuned with flat detents to begin with. you may need to adjust the detent in the lock bar by pushing it in or out if you flatten your detent. and you may need to tune the lockbar spring as well, or even the detent hole in the blade. but here's how some people are doing it... just be warned you may or may not ruin a knife by doing this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWsqmC2n74K/
 
I build engines, and I have seen all the tests.
Any full synth. oil containing Molybdenum is superior to any/all natural/dyno based oils.

The tests you need to see are friction based resistance tests. Mainly spinning wheel or drum being forced to a stop with a bar made from the same material.
Moly lubes will actually still allow the bar to spin after being completely wiped off the surfaces.

Do some research (as you are now), and it is very surprising at what engineered oils can do vs the "make do" oils of days long gone.

Knife specific oils? LOL... They are adapted from what is available. BP or Exxon don't have knife oil labs (that I know of).

One quart of Royal Purple or similar branding will last the rest of your life. As I said... The moly lube still works even after is has been wiped away.

I have to comment on the Lucas Red Grease... GARBAGE! It has the lowest melting point of all the top brands, and it fails all the friction tests it is put to. It may be fine for knives if you don't mind it attracting/holding on to every bit of debris. Or melting at body temp.. rub it between your fingers, and watch the soup flow.
No disrespect to anyone that uses it (lucas red) but it has been in my fail bin for more than 10 years
 
Zombie411 said:
I build engines, and I have seen all the tests.
Any full synth. oil containing Molybdenum is superior to any/all natural/dyno based oils.

The tests you need to see are friction based resistance tests. Mainly spinning wheel or drum being forced to a stop with a bar made from the same material.
Moly lubes will actually still allow the bar to spin after being completely wiped off the surfaces.

Do some research (as you are now), and it is very surprising at what engineered oils can do vs the "make do" oils of days long gone.

Knife specific oils? LOL... They are adapted from what is available. BP or Exxon don't have knife oil labs (that I know of).

One quart of Royal Purple or similar branding will last the rest of your life. As I said... The moly lube still works even after is has been wiped away.

I have to comment on the Lucas Red Grease... GARBAGE! It has the lowest melting point of all the top brands, and it fails all the friction tests it is put to. It may be fine for knives if you don't mind it attracting/holding on to every bit of debris. Or melting at body temp.. rub it between your fingers, and watch the soup flow.
No disrespect to anyone that uses it (lucas red) but it has been in my fail bin for more than 10 years
Click to expand...
already discussed, those tests called Timken are snake oil tests link here:

Mo2 said:
The Timken test is pure snake oil test. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3150338
Click to expand...
They got you good with snake oil with those tests.
 
You have to understand the chemistry involved in order to prove/disprove any study involving oils.
There are plenty of web sites that I could link that prove the Earth is flat as well.
I also stated I have seen multiple tests, and read more about oils than many have read about any form of science.

Engineered oils are just that. They are designed to do everything better than decayed plant/animal matter from deep inside the (how deep is flat?) Earth.

Wether you believe in any form of research or not... my point remains the same.
Moly oils are far superior to any/all natural oils. It's about the same difference as white washing a fence with "milk paint" or using a modern engineered paint. No contest.

No disrespect...
 
There are far more slippery things in oils than molybdenum disulfide...well after the 90's anyways.
Boron, calcium come to mind.
As a matter of fact it's bad for fibrous materials (aka g10 and the like) why you will never find a Molly based Oil in any shared sump system. Unless your a moron.

You should hang out at bitog for a spell.
Read some real information that's backed up by lab reports, as well as actual engineers from the petroleum industry, and tons of engine builders that actually know what they are doing... Not sales and marketing b.s.

P.S. I wouldn't put royal purple in my lawn mower. Besides the "synthetic" your touting as being better than sliced bread is a hydrocracked cat 3 oil. And to add a point is an sn api rated (no Molly whoops) epa garbage oil... Most all slightly stressed engines beat (shear) this oil to water in very short order as it has a week add pack. The only good oil left they BLEND (as they don't make oil) is their xpr, but 15w40 cj4+ Walmart brand supertech has been shown to run circles around RP in lab results.

I'll continue using my FOOD SAFE oils/grease's on my knives as I actually use them, and they do come into contact with wet things that I/others ingest.

Take care..

(No offense)


Sorry about all the edits. I didn't catch all the auto incorrections my stupid "smart" phone did
 
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LOL... No offense taken.
I'm just trying to keep it simple, and my first, and only choice is a synthetic oil (for most purposes).

My girl friend had the same knee jerk as you at the very mention of Royal... ;)
 
In most circumstances I agree a hydrocracked type III or IV, V is better in most cases.
Most all industrial oils found better things other than Molly a long time ago. I wouldn't trust any oil that uses Molly (other than Trace amounts) in one of my $100k+ industrial engines.
The engine I run daily has over a half million miles and 18000 hours on it. It has been fed nothing but Delo 400 it's entire life (non synthetic surprise).

But like all things in life there are proper uses for various lubricants. Type III (hydrocracked)/IV pao/V ester oils are poisonous to living things.
My family may eat some fruit I cut with my knife, the last thing I want to knowingly do is allow my child to ingest known poisonous compounds.

Just one less thing to worry about.

Funny thing for all...
My p.o.s. ganzo that I replaced the washers in (phosphor bronze) and run the lubriplate sfl-0 is honestly now the smoothest knife I own... Junk is fun!
 
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Sorry for de-railing...
SFL Series Synthetic Food Grade Grease With Lubri-Armour
Multi-Purpose Synthetic, Aluminum Complex, Food Grade Greases.

Formulated with...

Aluminum complex, Lubri-Armour, and anti microbial additive... Sounds De-Lisch!
You have to see me laughing to know this is in good fun. That little squirt can of oil is looking better, and better.
 
Zombie411 said:
That little squirt can of oil is looking better, and better.
Click to expand...

Starrett Instrument oil or Dri Slide.
We aren't pumping it into spinning oil wedge bearings at 50 PSI and dealing with temps in the triple digits. Just need some nice super light lube that if applied super sparingly won't hold pocket lint.
 
I just ordered some dry graphite lube in an aerosol can from crc. Well see how that will do since it will stick unlike the graphite powder.

Videos for a different brand, I went with crc due to poor reviews on this one and better reviews on crc.. But whatever same stuff most likely.


Im going to take paper or tape and just cut out the detent track from it on the blade and spray it on the location. Should work like a charm.
 
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Here's the heretic option (no offense to the lubrication experiments or the OP :)): for knives.....it doesn't matter. Use mineral oil. Use olive oil (blechh--but go ahead if you like it!). Use motor oil. Use 3 in 1. Use gun oil. Use WD40. Use KY Jelly (ok, maybe not that o_O). All of these "work" in some sense, and all are relatively better or worse as lubricants, and could be shown to do better or worse in various kinds of tests. All extremely interesting, and especially for firearms or much higher load applications with moving parts where lubrication is critical.

For knives...it just doesn't matter much. Use what you like. Use very little. Learn how to sharpen--it's a much more important subject, with knives. :)
 
Mo2 said:
I just ordered some dry graphite lube in an aerosol can from crc. Well see how that will do since it will stick unlike the graphite powder.

Videos for a different brand, I went with crc due to poor reviews on this one and better reviews on crc.. But whatever same stuff most likely.


Im going to take paper or tape and just cut out the detent track from it on the blade and spray it on the location. Should work like a charm.
Click to expand...

Seriously ?
Aerosol !
As in blast it in there with compressed gas ?

More like dribble a little in a twist off cap, stick a tooth pick in it and put a fraction of a drop where it needs to go.

DriSlide makes a liquid that comes with a hyper dermic applicator tube.

Put some ball bearings or little nuts in the bottle and shake the hell out of it before applying otherwise you just get liquid and not much graphite. I sure hope the aerosol has an agitator ball in it or you are OUT OF LUCK once it settles.

Ha, ha, ha lube a pocket knife with an fire extinguisher . . . ha, ha, ha,
:):) I'm just saying. :):)
 
Wowbagger said:
Seriously ?
Aerosol !
As in blast it in there with compressed gas ?

More like dribble a little in a twist off cap, stick a tooth pick in it and put a fraction of a drop where it needs to go.

DriSlide makes a liquid that comes with a hyper dermic applicator tube.

Put some ball bearings or little nuts in the bottle and shake the hell out of it before applying otherwise you just get liquid and not much graphite. I sure hope the aerosol has an agitator ball in it or you are OUT OF LUCK once it settles.

Ha, ha, ha lube a pocket knife with an fire extinguisher . . . ha, ha, ha,
:):) I'm just saying. :):)
Click to expand...
huh? im just trying it out. i dunno what to expect. most graphite is just loose dust. its great for some things but doesnt stay in one place. maybe this will do better. maybe it wont. the aerosol wont be a problem tho. im not sure what your going on about it. ill tape the blade up and remove an area where the detent track is and spray it on there. the blade removed of course. i dont oil knives while they are together.

as for DriSlide, wish i would have asked you when i was looking for a graphite product. that would have been helpful. if this aerosol doesnt work out ill try that. seems like a good price.

EDIT: oh its Moly and graphite... interesting. not sure i care much for the moly tho.

maximus83 said:
Here's the heretic option (no offense to the lubrication experiments or the OP :)): for knives.....it doesn't matter. Use mineral oil. Use olive oil (blechh--but go ahead if you like it!). Use motor oil. Use 3 in 1. Use gun oil. Use WD40. Use KY Jelly (ok, maybe not that o_O). All of these "work" in some sense, and all are relatively better or worse as lubricants, and could be shown to do better or worse in various kinds of tests. All extremely interesting, and especially for firearms or much higher load applications with moving parts where lubrication is critical.

For knives...it just doesn't matter much. Use what you like. Use very little. Learn how to sharpen--it's a much more important subject, with knives. :)
Click to expand...
um. nope. i mean do what you like but im not going to do it. used mineral oil and have used wd40 in the past, no big deal, they work. fend off corrosion and give some lube properties. but as for whats the best for action... nooooo. also olive oil will go rancid. dont even recommend that please.
 
Mo2 said:
not sure i care much for the moly tho.
Click to expand...

I was, am "going on" because it is fun and something to do. DO NOT take it very seriously.

For my info sake why is moly questionable ?

PS:
i dont oil knives while they are together.
Click to expand...

wow
. . . .
I don't think I have ever disassembled a knife to lube it.
I have free swingers and easy closers and smooth as butterers.
Moslty depends on the manufacturer (materials and quality control) . . . ((a little fore thought in design doesn't hurt either (((Benchmade))) ).
 
Wowbagger said:
I was, am "going on" because it is fun and something to do. DO NOT take it very seriously.

For my info sake why is moly questionable ?

PS:

wow
. . . .
I don't think I have ever disassembled a knife to lube it.
I have free swingers and easy closers and smooth as butterers.
Moslty depends on the manufacturer (materials and quality control) . . . ((a little fore thought in design doesn't hurt either (((Benchmade))) ).
Click to expand...
Alot of people don't take apart knives. Oh well. As for "going on" I'm sorry it was just hard to follow. Err understand. No worries.
 
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Well . . . I don't know about you all but from here on out I'm avoiding Molly !
I have an exaggerated fear of the unknown.
(she's probably not my type anyway.)
 
Hell, I don't know. Looks pretty good in THAT test.

I generally clean with Hoppes #9 and use ATF where I need oil or Lithium grease where I need grease, I also keep a can of Ballistol around for whatever else may come up.
 
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