Heat treating with a torch?

Yvsa and billpaxton, thanks for the welcome aboard! I bought a WWII from Uncle about 2 months ago and I love it. Durba is the kami that made it and he did a great job. I used to do some black/bladesmithing and I really can appreciate what these guys can do with next to nothing in the way of equipment. My khukri's blade is perfectly straight from cho to tip, and there are no waves in the edge. Forging a big recurved blade and getting it straight in all planes is tough enough, keeping it straight during heattreat really ups the anty.:) I've been toying with dragging the smithing tools out and firing up the forge again(injured my wrist pretty good about 9 years ago, finally healed up good enuf to take the pounding) and trying to make a 12-13" version of the UBE with a sharpened top edge from where it angles down to the point. Thought I might make my own dreadnaught, maybe call it a "pocket zipper":D Any hows, have a great evening!!!!
stevo
 
After looking at Art's work over at the Knife Outlet's web site, I would say that he "knows a thing or two" about forging steel and making knives. Really beautiful work.

--Mike L.
 
Thanks again to all!!!:) This topic has really brought up some really good conversation!:) I wish I could type faster so I could add more to it!:mad: It took me almost 4 min to type this small amount:eek:
 
I assume your talking about an oxy/acetylene torch setup. I would strongly recommend not doing this as there is a substantial risk of changing the steel properties due to oxidation from the torch flame itself.

There is a small book available by Tubal Cain that covers hardening and heat treating quite well and I suggest you get it before resorting to the torch method.
 
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I don't know, but I have seen several different old machinists use an oxy/acetylene rig and when the steel was a little over bright cherry red cut the oxy and play a yellow smokey flame over the steel too add carbon.
And when they put a file on the finished part it always "skated" across the steel, never making any kind of mark.
 
Most khukuris are made of a steel that can be hardened with the careful use of an oxy-acetylene torch provided the maker did not overheat the steel or spend too much time at high heat while forging.
Both of these remove carbon from the steel and it is the carbon which enables steel to get hard.
Since the type of steel in this particular blade is unknown, there is no real answer except to see if it was hardened before, in which case you should be able to harden it again. If it wasn't hardened before, just try hardening and see what happens.
 
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At I just checked the address you have in you sig and must say you do very beautiful work!!!!:D

If I could suggest making the address a link it would be most helpful>:D

And a couple or three of questions....:D
Just how hard can straight 1084 harden too?

Can you make it springy and thin and still hold an edge good enough for a paring knife?

About how thick should it be left after forgeing in order to make the paring knife.

And one more....:D
What color should it be drawn to in order to get the springyness?

The reason I'm asking is I have some 1084, fairly thin about 1/8", and want to make my Barb a nice little paring knife one day.

And now that I've seen your knive's I know that you told me a little story about not being a good sharpener.:D
And it's the same old story, a mechanics car always needs work, a carpenters house always needs repair, and a knifemaker's kitchen knive's are always the dullest.:D
 
And the dentist always has bad breath and the barber needs a haircut.

Which gets me around to saying, I don't know what it is either but would like to.

And maybe this is the time and place to throw this in. When I fired up Kumar's forge at BirGorkha and starting pounding on a khukuri in process the kamis started laughing.
 
Yvsa,
I'll send you a detailed reply off forum.
You're all welcome to mail me off forum with any questions that don't have to do with khukuris; I'll do my best to give you a quick reply.
Uncle Bill goes to a lot of trouble to provide us all with a forum to discuss and learn about khukuris. I don't want to abuse his hospitality.
And Uncle Bill, I'm sure the kamis would laugh like mad if they saw me trying to get these old bones down to ground level where they work.
 
Art, you're one of us and you can post on this forum anything you like. I'm convinced that anything you post here will be a help rather than a hindrance.
 
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Art thanks for the detailed e-mail.
I now feel confident to go ahead with the project.:D

And since you've been around a while lurking then you know what this has to do with khukuris, Everything.

And the reason this forum is as much fun is we can all be ourselves, the topics drift terribly(wouldn't ever want to change that:D)
There is seldom any flaming or fighting, and the best people in the world find this forum and even if they dont stay long, they always come back to visit it seems.:)
And it seems that all who come here and stay come to learn new talents whether building knives, playing a Flute or Didj and etc.
Besides learning about khukuris from one of the best men on the planet.:D
 
:) Ok the most computer inept robotics tech in the world thinks he can add a hyperlink in a round about way. Go to the site I'm attempting to put in now, look for a high lighted text thats underlined and reads "Primal forges-school of knifemaking". Click on it and I think you'll be where I was trying to get you.www.livelyknives.com/ stevo
 
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