Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

likewise, ShadowchaserUFP. :thumbup:


3V is a carbon steel, but has ~7% chromium (need 12% to be a true stainless). So, think of it more as rust-resistant...better than A2, but not as good as D2...and definitely not as good as S30V/440C/etc.



But the best feature by far for 3V is toughness. :thumbup:
 
Number 9 and 11 are lookin' really good! :D

My overall fav. is 9, with a convex grind and 3V steel you couldn't ask for more.
 
Looks like the convex people like the #9 and the scandi people like the #11. Come on #11 people lets hear your votes:thumbup:. I like #11.

#11 #11 #11, OORAH :D
 
Like I said before... #11 #11 #11

I like #11 and scandi all the way. :D


This is pretty fun guys !!!! It is very refreshing to actually have some input collectively on this.


-Tdog
 
I think the two posters above got confused with all of the pics and actually liked number 9 with the convex grind.;)

Come on number 9 people, where ya at??:D
 
I like them both but if offered either I think I would go for #9 with a Scandi grind in the 3V steel. The handle shape 'looks' more comfortable somehow.
 
Thanks for the explanation Dan. In that case I would pick #11 with natural wood scales (love the feel of natural wood over micarta or synthetic). Still like the idea of some type of protrusions to facilitate lashing the knife onto a pole for use as a spear if needed.

Yours,
Jack
 
ShadowchaserUFP said:
Thanks for the explanation Dan. In that case I would pick #11 with natural wood scales (love the feel of natural wood over micarta or synthetic). Still like the idea of some type of protrusions to facilitate lashing the knife onto a pole for use as a spear if needed.

Yours,
Jack
Click to expand...

I cringe every time I hear someone mention using a knife as a spear !!!:thumbdn:

If you must make a spear , buy a HD 6-8" Nail and keep that in your PSK to use.....save your knife to use as it should be used !
 
ShadowchaserUFP said:
Thanks for the explanation Dan. In that case I would pick #11 with natural wood scales (love the feel of natural wood over micarta or synthetic). Still like the idea of some type of protrusions to facilitate lashing the knife onto a pole for use as a spear if needed.

Yours,
Jack
Click to expand...

If the handles are removeable then you should be able to make a slot on the end of the spear to attach the knife. Don't know really just thinking out loud.

(I always thought a small throwing knife in my kit would be a good for this)
 
My vote goes for #9 in 1095 @ HRC 60-61; with some sort of epoxy coating (eg. Gunkote) over the whole knife, except for the Scandi grind region which is uncoated. Oh yeah, orange micarta/ G10 scales would be nice too.
 
who else would like to see removable handles?




Another thing to consider (trying to think of everything....)


It would save time/money if I limited the options available - then I could always have the parts "on hand" rather than waiting to order a different steel or handle material. Make sense?

Let's say I limit the steel options to 3V and 1095, and the handle material to green micarta & black G10. Then I can buy those materials specifically for this knife in bulk...

Then, those that want special materials can still get them - added wait/cost - and I can keep costs down for the regular versions.



Seems micarta was the overwhelming majority. Maybe two different types? (green canvas, red linen)


What say ye?

:D
 
flatgrinder - a coating would be great - and we should consider it. Anybody else want it?


If the blade is coated, then I definitely want removable handles (to make it easier/quicker to make).
 
I am fine with the removable handle notion, but I am not crazy about the coating issue. My concern is that if it is not durable enough, the knife may start to look bad fairly quickly. Also, I would be concerned about using it for food prep at all for fear of contamination.

An example of a GREAT knife that is offered both with and without a coating is the Fallkniven A1. From what I have seen, those who get the coated version find that the coating comes off surprisingly easy for such a high quality blade, often wishing that they had gone with no coating from the git-go.

Of course, one could argue that a user could remove the coating himself, but then that requires extra work on the part of the user.

If the concern of having the blade without a coating is corrosion, how realistic is that? Isn't a little common sense sufficient to overcome this issue, like drying the knife off after use and not storing it in a wet sheath? IMO, a patina is also NOT a bad thing.

Just my .02. :)
 
Handles fixed or removable ? I'd say go with whatever works out cheapest and is the most easy for you to do Dan !
I'm not too sure about a blade coating, they come off anyway and interfere slightly with the cutting ability IMO !!!
Handle material ? Wood looks nice and traditional but Natural Micarta would match my Koster Nessie !!!!:D:thumbup:
 
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