Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

Number 9 in 3V would be absolutely awesome at that price point. That is a great looking blade. This gets my vote. You would sell soooo many of these!
 
I think maybe you need a poll now Dan to decide if you go with 5/32" Convex or 1/8" Scandi ( my vote would be for the Convex ).
 
Daniel Koster said:
Ok....I've been doing some number this morning...calling various suppliers, etc.


Basically...at this size (1" x 8.5" x 1/8" thick) the steel cost differences are not terribly significant.

True, I can get 1095 for about $1 per blade...but I can also get 3V for about $5 per blade...



So....this makes me very happy....:D


I was concerned that the cost would be prohibitive...but since we're keeping it simple...options have opened up.



Would you be willing to pay $4 more for a super-steel like 3V?
(vs 1095)


If a satin finish is preferred....I would need surface-ground barstock...but still...that would only be about $7 per blade at most.



I think S30V is about the same for me....~$5 per blade.



What do you think about 13C26? (Also around $5 per blade)

It is a fine-grain stainless (read: easy to sharpen, keen edge like O1/1095/52100)


I'm starting to lean this way....


Let's hear some thoughts on this...:thumbup:
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Dan,

If you call seel a 3V knife for $100-125 like your bushcraft knife, you could probably retire. You'll sell so many of them that you will have to outsource them. #11 in 3V has my vote.

Lester
 
hot dang.....this is what I like...a RIOT! :thumbup: :eek: :D :p





3V it is!!!!



I am seriously stoked about this one guys.

Everybody cool with the new design? (9 & 11 seem to be popular)


I'll gather up the favorites and comments and go back over the general consensus.


Believe it or not...I did in fact build a spreadsheet with all the information from EVERY POST in this thread. The scandi's and convex's are neck-n-neck.

Might have to offer one of each to avoid lynching! :D :eek:
 
Dan,
Truthfully, I like both 9 and 11, and I think either will sell very nicely. If you go with 11 though, is there any chance you could offer it with a rounded transition on the top of the butt instead of the angled one? My only thought is that if the angled transition stays, then someone with large hands (ok, me :D ) might feel that corner a bit more with heavy use than if it had a rounded transition.

What do you think?
 
Now we're talking!:thumbup:

What might the price on this little beauty be? (assuming you're at that stage of development)
 
on_the_edge said:
Dan,
Truthfully, I like both 9 and 11, and I think either will sell very nicely. If you go with 11 though, is there any chance you could offer it with a rounded transition on the top of the butt instead of the angled one? My only thought is that if the angled transition stays, then someone with large hands (ok, me :D ) might feel that corner a bit more with heavy use than if it had a rounded transition.

What do you think?
Click to expand...

D'ya mean kinda like these.....

product_thumbCAGJAN5B.jpg
 
Just found this thread-Wow! I vote for #11. Convexed or scandi, 3v or 0-1, doesn't matter so much to me.
 
Dan, you gotta make number 9 in 3V with a Convex Grind. If the Convex grind is too much, a scandi would be fine, but convex is first choice for me! 11 is ok, but there is just too much exposed pommel for a bushcraft blade. It limits the handle space and doesn't flow that well with the shape of the blade. Number 9 just works as a cohesive design and flows well. Who else is with me?? Come on people!!
 
Yup I gotta agree with you bro, something like this pommel below would look nicer than the one I posted previously and would still give us something to strike....
pacific.jpg
 
ilbruche said:
What I'd want.

4" spear point blade.
Convex grind.
Full tang.
1/8 " - 5/32" thick
W2 carbon steel or optional stainless ATS34 or similar high carbon stainless like S30V or VG10.
Hollow pins or removable pins for lashing.
Scales of stabilized wood, dymondwood or micarta.
Small serrated thumb ramp or filework serrations on the spine.
Leather pouch sheath with horizontal carry with firesteel loop.
Possibly a slightly exposed rear tang or metal buttcap.

What I wouldn't want.

A false edge.
Choil.
Anything thicker than 5/32"


I really prefer carbon steel and woods for my knives. Having the option for stainless and synthetic handle material should be an option for damp climates. A kydex sheath could be optional as well. Sort of like your nessies the knife will probably be available with options for several scale and sheath options.
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pitdog said:
Not a bad design bro but why 5160. Spring steel is ideal for a big chopper but not IMO a Bushcraft knife.
I would go with CPM3V or 51200,A2,01 or even 1095 etc !!!!
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I just liked the shape of that one Pitdog. My choices are above. :D
 
Dan it was great talking to you today and always a pleasure doing business with you sir. As far as the bushcraft knife is concerned I would like to know if the 3V steel is a type of stainless or is it carbon? I have always preferred carbon steels in my blades but I've also had some excellent stainless steels as well.

Yours,
Jack
 
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