Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

pitdog said:
Not a bad design bro but why 5160. Spring steel is ideal for a big chopper but not IMO a Bushcraft knife.
I would go with CPM3V or 51200,A2,01 or even 1095 etc !!!!
Click to expand...

For one, 5160 is pretty cost effective. I would'nt have a problem with the other steels mentioned, but cost would become a problem with CPM3V. 52100 and A2 are also a great choices, but I still prefer 5160 because of it's toughness over 52100 and A2. 5160 makes great smaller blades. It has awesome edge holding and outstanding toughness. The two most important things in a bushcraft blade. Plus it is affordable.

I am also for keeping the blade inline with the handle. And it would be absolutely awesome if you could keep the cost near $100 like you mentioned above Dan!
 
This is not my idea of what it should look like, I have already given my ideas on the previous posts, however I have just found this knife and thought I'd share the pic as I quite like it and can imagine it to be a knife similar to something Dan would turn out ( Dan's would be better of course.....creep...creep ! ).

php7JtFeg.jpg
 
Hmmm, if you had bolted on scales you could remove...maybe there could be a hallowed out cavity to keep some stuff in.
 
just to toss things up a bit...have a look at #5


bushcraft5.gif
 
That is definitely my favorite one so far. ;) :thumbup:

(Personally I like flat backs, but this is lookin' good.) :D
 
And yet another round of blades - inspired by pitdog's post.

bushcraft678.gif
 
Any of 6,7,8 would make a good knife for Bushcraft. Looks similar to many others used for that purpose. I still like your #2 though. I like my fingers above the cutting edge. I find it more comfortable for food prep etc. Probably because I am more used to kitchen knives.
 
So far I like # 6. :thumbup:

or

I really would love to see #5 with a straight back.


Dan,
What program are you using to draw those designs?
 
Dan I have to say I prefer the earlier designs, I'd like to see a solid pommel so you can use for a light field hammer, basically the rear section of tang repeated either side, pinned and soldered. Removable scales with maybe an option for fatter ones and lightly textured would be handy. A lighter-weight knife is more likely to be carried.
Great idea thanks for getting us involved.
 
I am using AutoCAD to do the drawings.




Those that like 6, but not 7 & 8 - how would we solve the pommel issue? (need a place to strike on the butt of the knife)

I put the "tab" on 7 & 8 in a way that would be perpendicular to the tip...#7 allows for a dropped handle and small unobtrusive pommel. Seems like the best compromise to me. *shrug*
 
Ok - I think I have something that might work...satisfy most folks.


Have a look - #9 & #10


bushcraft910.gif




Let me just review the initial thought in Post #1 - I'm not interested in copying the Mora. The Mora knife is an excellent bushcraft knife that you can get for $10. No way I could compete with that. Just buying the steel...and I'm in the negative. So, I'd like to keep within the same idea...add a few "perks"...and still keep the costs reasonable.


Incidently, of the two knives above, #9 would be the easiest to make.



So, let's hear some more ideas/suggestions/opinions....reactions, etc.
 
# 11 does it for me....... love it with 2 lanyard holes. That was one of my requests in my initial post.

:D

-Tdog
 
Ok....I've been doing some number this morning...calling various suppliers, etc.


Basically...at this size (1" x 8.5" x 1/8" thick) the steel cost differences are not terribly significant.

True, I can get 1095 for about $1 per blade...but I can also get 3V for about $5 per blade...



So....this makes me very happy....:D


I was concerned that the cost would be prohibitive...but since we're keeping it simple...options have opened up.



Would you be willing to pay $4 more for a super-steel like 3V?
(vs 1095)


If a satin finish is preferred....I would need surface-ground barstock...but still...that would only be about $7 per blade at most.



I think S30V is about the same for me....~$5 per blade.



What do you think about 13C26? (Also around $5 per blade)

It is a fine-grain stainless (read: easy to sharpen, keen edge like O1/1095/52100)


I'm starting to lean this way....


Let's hear some thoughts on this...:thumbup:
 
No11 looks great but so does No9 and I think if the cost of a super steel such as 3V etc is less than $10 more then why settle for second best !!!!!

Stick with it, your doing good Dan !!!
 
Daniel Koster said:
Ok....I've been doing some number this morning...calling various suppliers, etc.


Basically...at this size (1" x 8.5" x 1/8" thick) the steel cost differences are not terribly significant.

True, I can get 1095 for about $1 per blade...but I can also get 3V for about $5 per blade...



So....this makes me very happy....:D


I was concerned that the cost would be prohibitive...but since we're keeping it simple...options have opened up.



Would you be willing to pay $4 more for a super-steel like 3V?
(vs 1095)


If a satin finish is preferred....I would need surface-ground barstock...but still...that would only be about $7 per blade at most.



I think S30V is about the same for me....~$5 per blade.



What do you think about 13C26? (Also around $5 per blade)

It is a fine-grain stainless (read: easy to sharpen, keen edge like O1/1095/52100)


I'm starting to lean this way....


Let's hear some thoughts on this...:thumbup:
Click to expand...


Dan,

If you call seel a 3V knife for $100-125 like your bushcraft knife, you could probably retire. You'll sell so many of them that you will have to outsource them. #11 in 3V has my vote.

Lester
 
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