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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Help! ...with selecting a traditional folder
- Thread starter einsteinjon
- Start date
With respect to patterns, let your heart guide you. The same goes with manufacturers.
The same is true about steels of course, but I'll offer this opinion on that matter.
IMO, putting super steel blades on traditional knifes is sort of like putting a modern fuel injected motor in a classic muscle car.
This is to say, it's a perfectly legitimate thing to do, if that's the sort of thing you want. But to my taste, traditional knives are working man's knife. A tool meant to be used and maintained on a regular basis. For this reason, carbon steel is, by far, my preferred steel for a traditional knife. Use the money saved to buy a Lansky system which allows idiots like me to get a decent edge and learn to care for a knife (as opposed to striving to have super steel that requires less work).
If you need stainless, nothing wrong with buck's 420hc IMO. Yes there are better ones but at some point it's like worrying which beer pairs well with tarragon chicken. Really? Just grab a beer and sit down!
The same is true about steels of course, but I'll offer this opinion on that matter.
IMO, putting super steel blades on traditional knifes is sort of like putting a modern fuel injected motor in a classic muscle car.
This is to say, it's a perfectly legitimate thing to do, if that's the sort of thing you want. But to my taste, traditional knives are working man's knife. A tool meant to be used and maintained on a regular basis. For this reason, carbon steel is, by far, my preferred steel for a traditional knife. Use the money saved to buy a Lansky system which allows idiots like me to get a decent edge and learn to care for a knife (as opposed to striving to have super steel that requires less work).
If you need stainless, nothing wrong with buck's 420hc IMO. Yes there are better ones but at some point it's like worrying which beer pairs well with tarragon chicken. Really? Just grab a beer and sit down!
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One thing to think about is what pattern fits your hand well.
The Single blade #23 pattern GEC feels super in my hand. it is 4+ inches in the handle, and offers a comfy grip (this is the pioneer pattern).
That same frame with two blades (clip and spey) is much beefier, and much more hand filling. However when using the knife in a strong grip (making fuzz sticks for example) the second blade makes the handle far less comfortable in my hand, especially if I am using the clip blade, and the tall spey is under my hand.
The #73 patter (Scout?) is, for some reason more comfortable in my hand with the exact same style knife. The way it fits, where the tang on the 2nd blade falls on my hand, etc all work better in a 2 bladed pattern, just from a comfort standpoint, and I don't notice the 2nd blade as much. It is counter intuitive.
I don't notice the 2nd blade as much if I am just doing light cutting (apples, food, etc).
I am not very knowledgeable on patterns etc, but that was one observation I made.
As for steels, I can comment that the GEC (Northfield/Tideoute) 1095 is great stuff. It sharpens easier than any steel I have ever used, and the ease of getting and taking a scary sticky, make your stomach flutter in worry edge is very easy.
I don't own or use any super duper edge retention super steels (I own and extensively used INFI, VG10, Aus8a, 5160, A2 1075? and a double handful of basic stainless from different manufacturers). I have used a few higher end steels on pass around knives, but honestly don't use those hard at all because they are not mine.
GEC's 1095 is great, as long as you don't mind a patina, or a bit of maintenance. I don't do much, just try to wipe the blade off after being wet, and put a dab of lubricant on the joint every once in a while.
The steel responds very very well to a stropping. After use, I will just do a few passes per side on my strop, and it is hair whittling sharp, literally!
They just feel more natural fishing etc too (when compared to my more "tactical" "Combat" or "Hard Use" knifes).
The Single blade #23 pattern GEC feels super in my hand. it is 4+ inches in the handle, and offers a comfy grip (this is the pioneer pattern).
That same frame with two blades (clip and spey) is much beefier, and much more hand filling. However when using the knife in a strong grip (making fuzz sticks for example) the second blade makes the handle far less comfortable in my hand, especially if I am using the clip blade, and the tall spey is under my hand.
The #73 patter (Scout?) is, for some reason more comfortable in my hand with the exact same style knife. The way it fits, where the tang on the 2nd blade falls on my hand, etc all work better in a 2 bladed pattern, just from a comfort standpoint, and I don't notice the 2nd blade as much. It is counter intuitive.
I don't notice the 2nd blade as much if I am just doing light cutting (apples, food, etc).
I am not very knowledgeable on patterns etc, but that was one observation I made.
As for steels, I can comment that the GEC (Northfield/Tideoute) 1095 is great stuff. It sharpens easier than any steel I have ever used, and the ease of getting and taking a scary sticky, make your stomach flutter in worry edge is very easy.
I don't own or use any super duper edge retention super steels (I own and extensively used INFI, VG10, Aus8a, 5160, A2 1075? and a double handful of basic stainless from different manufacturers). I have used a few higher end steels on pass around knives, but honestly don't use those hard at all because they are not mine.
GEC's 1095 is great, as long as you don't mind a patina, or a bit of maintenance. I don't do much, just try to wipe the blade off after being wet, and put a dab of lubricant on the joint every once in a while.
The steel responds very very well to a stropping. After use, I will just do a few passes per side on my strop, and it is hair whittling sharp, literally!
They just feel more natural fishing etc too (when compared to my more "tactical" "Combat" or "Hard Use" knifes).
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Case Swayback Jacks are awesome, so are Case Backpockets. Well, just about any Case in general. Just depends on what you like. I carry a Russlock, it's amazing, and it's people friendly, unlike my FFG Endura 
einsteinjon
Platinum Member
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- Dec 22, 2008
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Well I think I'm gonna get either a GEC (Northfield or Tidioute) #23 or #54. I really dig the clip blade of the 54 moose/big jack models, but I think it would be a good idea to start with a #23 with a liner lock. In my head, especially after watching some YouTube videos and seeing the powerful snap these knives have when shutting, I can't get over not having a lock...at least for now. Too bad they don't make a liner lock #23 with the big jack type clip blade!!! *drool*
Oh and I'm going to try 1095 again. I don't mind a patina. If rusting is bad, I just won't carry it during the sweaty months.
Thanks again for all the input!
Oh and I'm going to try 1095 again. I don't mind a patina. If rusting is bad, I just won't carry it during the sweaty months.
Thanks again for all the input!
Morrow
Don't make this weird
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Quite a few of recent Queen knives have come sharp. What am I going to do with all this extra free time?
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That's what I do. I have been advised here that simply lightly oiling my carbon steel knives from time to time will keep them from rusting, and apparently for some here that works.
But almost 50 years of religious folding knife carry, that hasn't been my experience. For about 8 months a year, I sweat through my pants in my construction work down here in south Texas. And if I use my knife three-four times a day (which is a bare minimum amount), there is no more oil on the blade and it rusts after sitting in the sweat, which allows rust. It isn't practical to cut lot of material, then run to the truck to oil my knife. It is wonderful to have a nice stainless or semi stainless that requires little work to maintain. I have a strong affinity for Queen's D2, and although in the most sweaty of times it will get tiny dots of rust, they always come off easily with no damage.
Stainless became a blessing for me when they finally started using the good stuff on folders. I am happily carrying carbon 1095 now due to the cool weather, but will be switching back to stainless as the weather warms.
Moral of the story: You need both stainless AND carbon, and I would advise several examples of several knives to get started.
Robert
einsteinjon
Platinum Member
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midnight flyer,
I've used Tuff Glide with some success on 1095, but whereas it seems to last a few weeks on something like D2, I found myself needing to apply it daily for 1095. Have you tried this before? Maybe you could get through a full day with it...
Also, you're a troublemaker!!! I only want to try one to start...don't tempt me by telling me to buy multiple knives when that thought already entered my head. My addiction is bad enough without that sort of encouragement!
I've used Tuff Glide with some success on 1095, but whereas it seems to last a few weeks on something like D2, I found myself needing to apply it daily for 1095. Have you tried this before? Maybe you could get through a full day with it...
Also, you're a troublemaker!!! I only want to try one to start...don't tempt me by telling me to buy multiple knives when that thought already entered my head. My addiction is bad enough without that sort of encouragement!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2007
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Great Eastern Cutlery #54 Big Jack
From what you are requesting this is my best recommendation. It is 4.125" closed. The blades are pretty big. A spear and a clip.
The steel is 1095 at 59-60 RC per Manufacturers Specs. The 1095 takes and holds an edge well. I think you will be very sad with corrosion resistance if you don't take care of it. It will rust quickly if it has no patina and no protection. I love the 1095, but I took good care to let a strong patina form on my users. Once I got through that its been smooth sailing.
You can find a genuine stag for under your 200 dollar mark.
The fit and finish on the four or five of these that I have are great. No issues and I am picky, especially about blade play.
It is a hand filling design.
This is by far your only option but it is what I can suggest from my limited experience.
einsteinjon
Platinum Member
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- Dec 22, 2008
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Richstag- that is exactly what I've been eyeing
Midnight flyer and others- how is Queen's D2? Is it toothy? Or does it take a really fine edge?
Midnight flyer and others- how is Queen's D2? Is it toothy? Or does it take a really fine edge?
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2007
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One last piece of advice. Take the time to email the dealer and ask them to check the knife for any issue that may be a pet peeve to you. Most will respond the same day with very honest answers. This cuts out any chance of surprises. Also, the 'older' GEC's such as the 54's will not, from my experience, come with a razor edge. They will take a little time to get them to your liking.
I look forward to seeing what you end up with.
I look forward to seeing what you end up with.
Will Power
Gold Member
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- Jan 18, 2007
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- 33,363
That Genuine Stag Big Jack is a very persuasive knife, looks really decent.
In another thread, Flymon had darkened/etched the carbon blades of his GEC Conductor with ferric oxide, the effect was very impressive-a sort of blueing process. This might offer some more protection too.
In another thread, Flymon had darkened/etched the carbon blades of his GEC Conductor with ferric oxide, the effect was very impressive-a sort of blueing process. This might offer some more protection too.
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- Feb 22, 2007
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or you could just ya know cut up a few limes and enjoy some gin and tonics \%/
Flymons's looks really good. Like some custom makers do. I will probably do it to my next carbon user. It just makes sense to get it started so well. Then have fun cutting up your limes
I have always gone natural too. But Flymon's pics changed my mind for my next one.
silenthunterstudios
Slipjoint Addict
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- Feb 2, 2005
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Queen and Great Eastern are at the head of the pack, with their wide offering of styles, and basic fit and finish. The main gripe with Great Eastern is that some models are too tight, but I've found on most models that that tightness gets better over time and use. Queen used to have a bad problem with butter knife sharpness right out of the box, but their newer stuff has gotten better.
I always got rid of my Case SS knives, because of the quality of the steel. The newer ones that I've gotten haven't been too bad. I don't believe their SS is of the same quaility as Buck's 420HC, but they are not as bad as I once thought. The Tony Bose ATS34 and 154CM models have great fit and finish, and usually razor sharp blades (Tony puts the edge on them?), but the SS and CV collaborations are pretty good too. Lots of old Case's out there, but everyone wants an arm and a leg for them. I'm still waiting for someone to come down on one sitting in a junk mall display case over the line in PA, a barehead trapper.
Buck has some nice slipjoints, both US and Chinese made, although stick with 420HC, wouldn't touch 420J2. I picked up a 301X with bone scales at a gun show last year, with a flat ground blade, 425M steel. Their 7** series slipjoints, are real beauts, but the springs have a habit of breaking on you, one broke on my 703, but Buck took care of me. You also have the 110 and 112, while not my cup of tea, but I do really like the 110's coming out of the custom shop.
There are a lot of old, useable slipjoints sitting in junk shops, flea markets and yard sales that want to find a new home. A little cleaning up and oil, and they will walk and talk with the best of the newbies. Don't remove the character though. I've seen a lot of Colonials, Imperials and Kamp Kings. However, I picked up a few Camillus in the past month, and was almost tripping over all of the Kutmasters and Uticas out there over the last few years. I picked up an old Remington, albeit beat up a little, but still good snap and a lot of both blades left, at a local flea market.
There are lots of good old makers out there and new makers and makers that have revamped their image, out there. Lots of information out there too, and I would check out knife and gun shows for copies of Knife World, lots of informative articles on slipjoints.
I always got rid of my Case SS knives, because of the quality of the steel. The newer ones that I've gotten haven't been too bad. I don't believe their SS is of the same quaility as Buck's 420HC, but they are not as bad as I once thought. The Tony Bose ATS34 and 154CM models have great fit and finish, and usually razor sharp blades (Tony puts the edge on them?), but the SS and CV collaborations are pretty good too. Lots of old Case's out there, but everyone wants an arm and a leg for them. I'm still waiting for someone to come down on one sitting in a junk mall display case over the line in PA, a barehead trapper.
Buck has some nice slipjoints, both US and Chinese made, although stick with 420HC, wouldn't touch 420J2. I picked up a 301X with bone scales at a gun show last year, with a flat ground blade, 425M steel. Their 7** series slipjoints, are real beauts, but the springs have a habit of breaking on you, one broke on my 703, but Buck took care of me. You also have the 110 and 112, while not my cup of tea, but I do really like the 110's coming out of the custom shop.
There are a lot of old, useable slipjoints sitting in junk shops, flea markets and yard sales that want to find a new home. A little cleaning up and oil, and they will walk and talk with the best of the newbies. Don't remove the character though. I've seen a lot of Colonials, Imperials and Kamp Kings. However, I picked up a few Camillus in the past month, and was almost tripping over all of the Kutmasters and Uticas out there over the last few years. I picked up an old Remington, albeit beat up a little, but still good snap and a lot of both blades left, at a local flea market.
There are lots of good old makers out there and new makers and makers that have revamped their image, out there. Lots of information out there too, and I would check out knife and gun shows for copies of Knife World, lots of informative articles on slipjoints.
einsteinjon
Platinum Member
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- Dec 22, 2008
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- 1,828
How does GEC's 1095 and 440c compare in edge holding and ability to take a very fine razor edge ( I have never used any 440c knife)? Also, how is Queen's D2? Is it somewhat toothy? Will it take a finer edge similar to CPM D2?
black mamba
Gold Member
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- Oct 21, 2009
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I believe the 1095 takes a little finer edge, but the 440C will hold its edge a might longer.
Queen's D2 is superb knife steel. Hardened in the 61 HRc range, it will take a hair whittling edge and keep it a long time. It's pretty near stainless, as well.
Queen's D2 is superb knife steel. Hardened in the 61 HRc range, it will take a hair whittling edge and keep it a long time. It's pretty near stainless, as well.
einsteinjon
Platinum Member
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Hi everyone...just learned something interesting about Buck and posted a thread here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/907317-Custom-110 if you have any input for it.
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- Apr 19, 2005
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First off, many a knife have I heard about on the Buck forum ordered from the Custom Shop. Like a kid at Christmas many were so excited they couldn't stay still for a minute. When will it get here........
I would say to you this......the pre-holidays is the Custom Shops busiest days, I would say that you would be best served to call the factory about delievery time if you just have to have it on or before the 25th...and I mean call tomorrow.
I stand on the edge of the giant whirlpool of 110 addicts, never dipping in my toes. I say to you, go ahead and jump in, it sounds like you have found the road to the near perfect knife. I personally think rivets go well with stag on a 110. Good Luck. I will wave when you bob to the surface now and then........
300Bucks
I would say to you this......the pre-holidays is the Custom Shops busiest days, I would say that you would be best served to call the factory about delievery time if you just have to have it on or before the 25th...and I mean call tomorrow.
I stand on the edge of the giant whirlpool of 110 addicts, never dipping in my toes. I say to you, go ahead and jump in, it sounds like you have found the road to the near perfect knife. I personally think rivets go well with stag on a 110. Good Luck. I will wave when you bob to the surface now and then........
300Bucks