Here's The BOSS HG55 LE. . . . YOWZA!!!!!

:rolleyes:Hmm. That's certainly possible. It really depends greatly on the details of the knife's actual morphology -- what the grooves are really like and how they transition into the bulk of the blade itself. Careful design can certainly minimize bending and torsional stresses at those points.

As to breaking the tip ... every knife's tip will break. It's just a matter of technique, force, and time.:)

Certainly, I would prefer the LE version if I was really 'set' on this knife as a pure fighter.

Unlike Noss, I doubt I'll be doing any destructive testing on the HG55 in any of its forms. If I did, the tests would be different in kind and in character.
 
The tip to ricasso grooves of the corrugated bevel seen on the Hell Razor and CG FBM, while perhaps altering the blade's chopping ability, do increase the blade's resistance to lateral forces, making it more difficult to break the blade should you stick it in a tree trunk or stump, or bench vise, and pull sideways on the handle. Prying with a knife is not uncommon.
The edge to spine grooves, found on the M-O/R HG-55, while an interesting, perhaps unique, approach to the main grind for a blade, are another matter entirely. This type of CBT would work very well IF the main ("if the main", HAH! if ANY) expected stress to the knife were of the type encountered by clamping the spine or edge and hitting the exposed edge or spine, respectively, perpendicular to the plane of the blade in an attempt to split the blade lengthwise. Perhaps its me, but I have a difficult time imagining how reinforcing against that type of stress is any advantage as I cannot envision a scenario in which it might occur. I think it a safe bet to assume that not even Noss has tried to destroy a Busse in that particular fashion. Back to a much more commonly encountered stressor, prying.
Here is where the edge to spine grooves offer little other than an unusual appearance. Again, stick the hypothetical blade into a trunk, stump or vise and pull. Perhaps Jerry has alternated the grooves on each side so that the trough of one side coincides with the crest on the other, keeping the blade thickness roughly constant. Coupled with the saber spine, the wavy blade would make the stresses that result from prying interesting. I can visualize the blade failing at the "grind line". I suspect, however, that Jerry has kept the grind mirror image or bilaterally symmetrical so that the peaks and valleys coincide with each other. This makes the blade thick where the peaks match and thin where the valleys do the same. When prying, the blade is most likely to fail at the thinnest part free of restraint. With enough prying force, the blade will fail at the valley of the first groove not stuck in the trunk, stump or vise. Again, perhaps its just me, but I don't see the purpose of making a hard use blade with designed and built-in failure points, those being the trough of each groove.
Dead horse well and truly beaten to pulp.
RANT <OFF>
This one might be worth $0.03. Pete
 
pmsayre153 said:
The tip to ricasso grooves of the corrugated bevel seen on the Hell Razor and CG FBM, while perhaps altering the blade's chopping ability, do increase the blade's resistance to lateral forces, making it more difficult to break the blade should you stick it in a tree trunk or stump, or bench vise, and pull sideways on the handle. Prying with a knife is not uncommon.
The edge to spine grooves, found on the M-O/R HG-55, while an interesting, perhaps unique, approach to the main grind for a blade, are another matter entirely. This type of CBT would work very well IF the main ("if the main", HAH! if ANY) expected stress to the knife were of the type encountered by clamping the spine or edge and hitting the exposed edge or spine, respectively, perpendicular to the plane of the blade in an attempt to split the blade lengthwise. Perhaps its me, but I have a difficult time imagining how reinforcing against that type of stress is any advantage as I cannot envision a scenario in which it might occur. I think it a safe bet to assume that not even Noss has tried to destroy a Busse in that particular fashion. Back to a much more commonly encountered stressor, prying.
Here is where the edge to spine grooves offer little other than an unusual appearance. Again, stick the hypothetical blade into a trunk, stump or vise and pull. Perhaps Jerry has alternated the grooves on each side so that the trough of one side coincides with the crest on the other, keeping the blade thickness roughly constant. Coupled with the saber spine, the wavy blade would make the stresses that result from prying interesting. I can visualize the blade failing at the "grind line". I suspect, however, that Jerry has kept the grind mirror image or bilaterally symmetrical so that the peaks and valleys coincide with each other. This makes the blade thick where the peaks match and thin where the valleys do the same. When prying, the blade is most likely to fail at the thinnest part free of restraint. With enough prying force, the blade will fail at the valley of the first groove not stuck in the trunk, stump or vise. Again, perhaps its just me, but I don't see the purpose of making a hard use blade with designed and built-in failure points, those being the trough of each groove.
Dead horse well and truly beaten to pulp.
RANT <OFF>
This one might be worth $0.03. Pete
Click to expand...


Noss's tests are more scientific than that speach.
 
SubaruSTi said:
Noss's tests are more scientific than that speach.
Click to expand...

Not really.

pmsayre's views are not unreasonable. I admit, it would be interesting to properly test the HG55 (with grooves) to failure against the sort of forces described above.

I'm not going to do it ... but it would be interesting.;)
 
Practical use eh? Perhaps, as a dedicated fighter, the "ripple" effect creates miniscule but reinforcing waves in the target thereby inducing massive hydrostatic shock that incapacitates the enemy and guarantees you win the fight! :D :D :D

Then again, maybe it is just stylish. +1
 
VoxHog said:
Practical use eh? Perhaps, as a dedicated fighter, the "ripple" effect creates miniscule but reinforcing waves in the target thereby inducing massive hydrostatic shock that incapacitates the enemy and guarantees you win the fight! :D :D :D

Then again, maybe it is just stylish. +1
Click to expand...

Could be.

Could be meant to act the same way similar vertical grooves do in many high-end kitchen knives meant to slice meat. They help the knife 'release' the meat, making slicing easier.

I guess that sounds appropriate for a fighter. Gruesome, but appropriate.
 
pmsayre153 said:
As to Jerry's interesting HG55, (Mil. overrun version), his convex, "bomb proof" tip will snap off at the first deep concave groove from the tip when Noss gets around to breaking one. The saber type spine helps, but the orientation of the grooves of that grind style serve to weaken the blade, similar to a segmented or "snap off" type utility knife blade. Other than looking different, I see none of the genius that Jerry showed with his (love it or hate it) corrugated bevel technology usefully applied with this model.
Rant <OFF>
Just my $0.02. Pete
Click to expand...

as far as I know snap off blade lines are cut with a small saw, creating 4 square corners (stress risers) on a very thin blade. If you take a hacksaw and cut lines into a busse, yes it will make it much more likely to snap off on any given line.

vertical cbt's in this fashion may make the knife more flexible, not more likely to break. having a knife be easier to flex isn't necessarily bad as long as it is able to flex more before breaking. say -these are arbitrary numbers- it takes 600lbs for this model knife with a flat grind to flex, and 1,000lb's to take a 15 degree set. the knife staps at 90 degrees.

take the same model with the vert cbt's and it takes 350lbs to flex, and 1,000lbs to take a 25 degree set. the knife snaps at 110 degree's.

It's functionality is the same, it will just be a different user experience.


I have no idea if that's how this thing would actually react, I'm just unwilling to make the comparison of the large wide round cbt's to the sharp thin lines on a snap off blade. as long as the troughs connections leave the blade as thick as other thinner busses (like an active duty), I'd assume the blade will act in a similar or harder use fashion to those knives.
 
Last edited:
pmsayre153 said:
As to Jerry's interesting HG55, (Mil. overrun version), his convex, "bomb proof" tip will snap off at the first deep concave groove from the tip . . . The saber type spine helps, but the orientation of the grooves of that grind style serve to weaken the blade, similar to a segmented or "snap off" type utility knife blade. . . .Rant <OFF>
Just my $0.02. Pete
Click to expand...

You are incorrect my friend. . . .

We would NEVER put a knife into the hands of our troops that we hadn't tested far beyond its expected envelope of performance. I can assure you that the HG55 lives up to insane levels of abuse and greatly exceeds any and all requirements and expectations.

The HG55's wide radiused grooves DO NOT act like the sharp angular scored grooves in a "snap off" utility blade. They actually serve to support the primary bevel when being twisted or torqued, which is a concern in the typically weaker geometry of a hollow or concave bevel.

If INFI were prone to brittleness as the primary point of failure, like most other cutlery grade steels, then your stated thesis might prove to be of concern. Fortunately, this is not the case.

Hope this helps . . . Let's Drink!!!!:thumbup:

Jerry :D






.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
as far as I know snap off blade lines are cut with a small saw, creating 4 square corners (stress risers) on a very thin blade. If you take a hacksaw and cut lines into a busse, yes it will make it much more likely to snap off on any given line.

vertical cbt's in this fashion may make the knife more flexible, not more likely to break. having a knife be easier to flex isn't necessarily bad as long as it is able to flex more before breaking. say -these are arbitrary numbers- it takes 600lbs for this model knife with a flat grind to flex, and 1,000lb's to take a 15 degree set. the knife staps at 90 degrees.

take the same model with the vert cbt's and it takes 350lbs to flex, and 1,000lbs to take a 25 degree set. the knife snaps at 110 degree's.

It's functionality is the same, it will just be a different user experience.


I have no idea if that's how this thing would actually react, I'm just unwilling to make the comparison of the large wide round cbt's to the sharp thin lines on a snap off blade. as long as the troughs connections leave the blade as thick as other thinner busses (like an active duty), I'd assume the blade will act in a similar or harder use fashion to those knives.
Click to expand...

I was posting and drinking at the same time of your post. . . You have made very accurate, and in our experience, valid points.

Now, if I can just get you to embrace the beauty of the wide radiused choil. . . . :D

Back to my bottle!!! :thumbup:

Jerry :D



.
 
Jerry Busse said:

Don't you HOGs ever sleep????? :confused: . . . :D

Jerry :D

.
Click to expand...

Funny... I was just thinking the same thing about YOU! ...But then again, after a few BLADE shows, I guess that I should know the answer by now! :D:D

:thumbup:
 
Jaxx said:
Funny... I was just thinking the same thing about YOU! ...But then again, after a few BLADE shows, I guess that I should know the answer by now! :D:D

:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Et tu Jaxx?. . . Et tu? . . . :D

I think that makes us INFImniacs. . . . :eek:

Jerry :D



.
 
Looking at photos of the CG model, I wonder if the CBT is going to add a sort of serrated effect? The bevels run all the way into the edge grind, so it has to have some sort of effect. Not like regular serrations that almost rip, but I'm thinking it will still perform differently than a traditional grind....

I guess we get to wait and see!
 
Thanks for the responses to my concerns about the HG-55 CG's most unusual design feature and I feel honored to be reassured/corrected by the Boss Hog himself. Jerry is quite right that I'd overlooked the fact that INFI is much more flexible than other cutlery steels and I should have stated my concern that the tip would fail by permanent deformation (bend) rather than break (snap off). Of course it will fail, but at much higher applied forces than required to break most other knives.That's one of the things that makes a Busse a Busse, one of the reasons why we're here on this forum, and a reason why I own 36 of these wonderfully addictive tools/toys and await the arrival of #37.
LVC addresses my concern about the blade's ability to resist bending/prying forces by noting that IF the minimum blade thickness at the troughs of the primary grind bevels is no thinner than that of other Busses, then the HG-55 CG should be as strong as those Busse blades with the same thickness, which is to say remarkably strong indeed. Also, both Jerry and LVC note that using a ball nose mill bit (?) makes the grooves a smooth, continuous curve that avoids the stress concentrating attributes of "V" grooves or other angular features or notches. Thanks also to OP for seeing that somewhere within RANT and RANT' was a not unreasonable point or, perhaps, two.

While on the subject of bending failure, has anyone from the shop talked to Volk or vice versa? Has a bit of a problem with a bent Badger. (We are assuming a TAC handle model.) I am one of a few interested in the outcome of his dilemma (Keep and use or send to shop and ?) and, while I don't expect Jerry to revisit this thread, if by chance you do, please contact him or be aware that we hope that he is trying to contact you. Thanks very much all.
Pete
 
Jerry Busse said:

Now, if I can just get you to embrace the beauty of the wide radiused choil. . . . :D
Click to expand...

beauty, sure. functionality, for certain people. necessity - NEVER!!! :p

Bravado said:
BAhhh!!! Just sharpen the choil! There perceived problem solved!
Click to expand...

when it snags hard, you still gotta pull in a different direction then you initial trajectory, meaning your first cut is no longer what you meant it to be. and, it forces the blade to bounce off the material a bit when the material exits the choil. the hand can't really apply that much pressure to a slash, it all depends on the strength of the wrist, so that little bit can mean a lot. It's amazing when you start working with thicker materials just how weak the knife to wrist connection is, and how important the momentum of the knife itself (chopping action) is compared to the push-slash motion since the wrist is so unlikely to be able to apply heavy force.

and having the knife in a reverse edge forward position is even worse, your wrist has sooooo little strength trying to resist pressure in any direction from the tip of the knife when it's like that. when you work with thin plastics like bottles, you have to rely almost completely on the speed of the knife to puncture and cut them, rather then the pushing pressure of the wrist, because it's more likely then not just to bounce off or torque in your hand.

resinguy said:
Sheesh, I wish Garth would make your customs already, so we could finally see them and get your full report. Have they set a record yet for oldest outstanding custom order? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I got the sar5 I sent in for customization. I got that fairly fast, about 4 months. still haven't been charged for it either :confused: I don't understand exactly what was going on with that one, but I sent an email to garth asking if I owed anything on it, and never got a reply. maybe shop credits:confused:

anyways, I love it. Could use a larger thicker gaurd and some cnc'd canvas micarta, but it's great as it is. thin edge, sharp tip, controllable handle, more then long enough to take out any vital organ (or onion :p ). the epoxy grip actually gets grippier when wet.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/lastvisiblecanary/IMG_5368-1.jpg
which became this, because I should have gotten the handle cut down and the scales remade, but I wanted to minimize the amount of work the custom shop had to do (for turnaround time). mostly I just wanted the blade done up like this, and couldn't do it myself.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/lastvisiblecanary/zzzIMG_5855.jpg

I think march is the 3 year mark on the first 2 customs, april for the 3rd... didn't chucks machete take 3 and a half? I signed up knowing the wait time was 2-4 years, and I'm willing to wait :)
 
Last edited:
This is the first time I've seen this one LVC...

Pretty cool mod on the SAR 5. :cool:

IMG_5368-1.jpg

zzzIMG_5855.jpg


:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top