High polished busse, lets see yours

Spent my 2 hour break at work polishing ONE side of the nmfbm.
And is no even close to being done, but damn it's shiny!
Also the BUSSE logo got removed in the process, oops.



I probably should get high grit sandpaper too, perhaps 3000.
Seems the satin finish on this busse is around 400 grit, as 400 makes about the same scratch marks.
 
HwangJino said:
Spent my 2 hour break at work polishing ONE side of the nmfbm.
And is no even close to being done, but damn it's shiny!
Also the BUSSE logo got removed in the process, oops.



I probably should get high grit sandpaper too, perhaps 3000.
Seems the satin finish on this busse is around 400 grit, as 400 makes about the same scratch marks.
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Get some metal polish.... It will speed it up
 
HwangJino said:
Do I apply the metal polish to the sand paper? Never used metal polish before.

I want the whole blade as shiny as it's spine.
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I use old socks... One to apply the paste to the blade and another to clean the blade after it hazes over. Think about waxing a car, except you are polishing the blade. Polish on, polish off.... When the spot where your fingers are becomes black switch spots. Keep a clean area with polish on it.... I use mother's mag and aluminum polish. It's not hard, you've got it...
 
This is about as high of a polish I care to bother with putting on a heavy duty knife, now if we're talking chef's knives that another story. That I'd take up through full progression of grits on primary or secondary bevels….. :) This is straight off my 24 grit Nubatama for what it's worth, lol.

DSC_0028_zpstd5pgzev.jpg


DSC_0019_zpsw1iny0lg.jpg
 
Red Angel Dragnet said:
This is about as high of a polish I care to bother with putting on a heavy duty knife, now if we're talking chef's knives that another story. That I'd take up through full progression of grits on primary or secondary bevels….. :) This is straight off my 24 grit Nubatama for what it's worth, lol.

DSC_0028_zpstd5pgzev.jpg


DSC_0019_zpsw1iny0lg.jpg
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240 grit or 24 grit?

My kitchen knives don't usually get polished often, but it's usually 2000 grit and 8000 grit for the edges.
 
HwangJino said:
240 grit or 24 grit?

My kitchen knives don't usually get polished often, but it's usually 2000 grit and 8000 grit for the edges.
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Yes, indeed….. 24 grit Nubatama XXC Aratae.

I just meant to say that I don't bother polishing burly outdoors/survival knives, the geometry is far more important than the grit finish for these knives.

Believe it or not this stone can get a knife shaving sharp too, in no time I might add…. :)
 
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I'm really interested in doing the same to my incoming NMFBM --- I'd love to see what performance difference it'll make.
 
Rob_Mob said:
I'm really interested in doing the same to my incoming NMFBM --- I'd love to see what performance difference it'll make.
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I can assure you that it wouldn't do anywhere near as much as tweaking the blade geometry itself, mainly near the edge in this case.

Losing the secondary edge bevel and taking it to a true zero edge would be the ticket for the NMFBM, ask resinguy about his…. ;)

PorkFest047.jpg
 
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Red Angel Dragnet said:
I can assure you that it wouldn't do anywhere near as much as tweaking the blade geometry itself, mainly near the edge in this case.

Losing the secondary edge bevel and taking it to a true zero edge would be the ticket for the NMFBM, ask resinguy about his…. ;)

PorkFest047.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply and I hear you -- I've heard a lot of people rave about convex grind down to true zero. However, I prefer (due to maintenance and consistency) a V - edge. Now I knock back the shoulders on all my Busse knives. There's no question the grind is important. However -- I don't see how much of a difference it would make to have it convex to zero vs convex to V with shoulders knocked back. Let me know your thoughts.
 
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