Hinderer XM-18 Lockup

spidyman

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Those of you that have an XM-18 (preferably gen 3) what percentage is you lockup at?

On mine, which I have had for several months, and got practically spankin new second hand, the lockup is at 15-20% and has not changed since I got it; and I have carried and used it for at least 2 full months if not 3 now, and if I apply moderate pressure to the spine or the flipper the lock will fail.

I use the flipper often, but not with outrageous gusto, and I would have expected the lock bar to have seated and wore some by now, not even applying pressue to it will force it beyond the 20% lockup level. Its great for wear and longevity, but for a XM-18 and its intended purpose of 'hard use' I would expect it to have a bit better lockup.

BTW I do NOT use a spine whack test rather two fingers applying force to the spine or a thumb pulling back on the flipper; either way will make it fail.

just trying to decide if I need to give it more time or send it back to Rick.
 
oh, btw.

the lock up on mine is at about 50%. pretty much the same as when i got it about a year ago.
 
I've owned a Gen 3 and own a Gen 2 and I've never heard of that problem. My Gen 2's lock bar was pretty difficult to disengage and the spring tension on it was so strong that when it was closed, it would cause the blade to touch the opposite liner. I took it apart and the lock bar was bent too far over, causing too much tension in the spring at the bend of the lockbar. So I bent it back a little and the problem went away. I'm guessing that maybe your lockbar doesn't have enough tension on it. But to be extra sure, I'd probably email Rick and see what he thinks.
 
thanks for the replys guys, keep them coming. I figured this was an isolated case, but just wanted to get a feel for what some other owners thought.
I'll post some pictures later today of the lock up.
The lockup on this knife is what I would classify as very shallow, at first I figurd it just needed a bit of a breakin like my emersons and striders.
 
Lock failing on a 20 dollar knife: expected
Lock failing on a 100 dollar knife: annoying
Lock failing on a 500 dollar custom: Priceless!

Sorry:P
 
thanks for the replys guys, keep them coming. I figured this was an isolated case, but just wanted to get a feel for what some other owners thought.
I'll post some pictures later today of the lock up.
The lockup on this knife is what I would classify as very shallow, at first I figurd it just needed a bit of a breakin like my emersons and striders.

Even at a shallow lock up, which both of my XM-18s started at, they should not be failing like that. That is not acceptable. I'd definitely have Rick fix or replace it.
 
I was able to force the lock bar over to 75% or more. The knife was fine, just very tightly locked open.

I'm surprised you couldn't move it past 20%, I would send it in.
 
Lock failing on a 20 dollar knife: expected
Lock failing on a 100 dollar knife: annoying
Lock failing on a 500 dollar custom: Priceless!

Sorry:P

:mad:what constructive information did your post add?

here's some pics, and a short vid of the lock failing in action.
img0112wi.jpg

img0109g.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NscL93bmxHk- no longer on-line as issues has ben handled by rick.
 
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:mad:what constructive information did your post add?
...lightening the mood?


On my frame lock knives, the lockup varies from about 20 to 50% contact, but none of them fail like that. I agree with Kaizen1, maybe your lock bar isn't under enough tension.

As for lock wear, I haven't noticed much (if any) lock wear on my Ti frame lock knives, whereas some of my liner locks have really settled in (some a little too far).

I'd send it back to the maker to be tweaked.
 
My non-flipper locks up right about 20-25%, and is solid as a bank vault. Been using for a year or so and I don't think it has changed since I got it. Couldn't force it any further over if I wanted to.

Just saw your pics, yeah that is some shallow lockup. And your vid nails it, that needs to go to Rick.
 
You said you got it second hand ...

I'll bet the lock was "lightened" by the previous owner (the lockbar stop removed and the lockbar overextended a bit to reduce tension, then the stop reinstalled).

I'd send it back and let Rick take care of it and make sure nothing is else is screwy.
 
You said you got it second hand ...

I'll bet the lock was "lightened" by the previous owner (the lockbar stop removed and the lockbar overextended a bit to reduce tension, then the stop reinstalled).

I'd send it back and let Rick take care of it and make sure nothing is else is screwy.

I doubt it as it was extremely well taken care of. But one never knows.
 
In defense of that XM-18 I think the video is a bit deceptive. For one thing anytime you use a liner or frame lock type folder its a given that you give the blade a good snap open, not in a very timid fashion that barely allows the lock to engage the blade. When its opened as it was in that video its a recipe for easy defeat on a lot of knives and in those cases I'd say its more related to user error than the knife most times. I'd suggest always giving your integral locking folders a good snap to open them particularly when new or when still breaking in. I had a CQC14 that would do that same thing and defeat easily if you just opened it very timidly but when you gave it a good snap or Waved it the thing was solid and you could easily tell the lock moved in better behind the blade to support it.

STR
 
I'm sure you don't mean to do this, but these types of videos can hurt a maker's reputation for no good reason. Considering that you haven't given Rick a chance the address the problem, I've never seen any other case like this and you bought it second hand, it just doesn't seem fair to post that video quite yet.
 
In defense of that XM-18 I think the video is a bit deceptive. For one thing anytime you use a liner or frame lock type folder its a given that you give the blade a good snap open, not in a very timid fashion that barely allows the lock to engage the blade. When its opened as it was in that video its a recipe for easy defeat on a lot of knives and in those cases I'd say its more related to user error than the knife most times. I'd suggest always giving your integral locking folders a good snap to open them particularly when new or when still breaking in. I had a CQC14 that would do that same thing and defeat easily if you just opened it very timidly but when you gave it a good snap or Waved it the thing was solid and you could easily tell the lock moved in better behind the blade to support it.

STR

Were we watching the same video? He just applied pressure on the flipper on the video I saw.
 
I'm sure you don't mean to do this, but these types of videos can hurt a maker's reputation for no good reason. Considering that you haven't given Rick a chance the address the problem and that you bought it second hand, it just doesn't seem fair to post that video quite yet.

I'm sure he can update the description when the problem is fixed.

Try snapping it open hard 50-100 times. I had a Strider AR that required a longer break in period then I assumed. It never slid completely off, but it looked close. I couldn't make it fail but the blade had vertical play. After it gets correctly seated you should be fine.
 
I have to say this. This is why I like the Sebenza. The blade centers closed perfect no matter how much pressure the lock applies (even if I push on the lock). I can open any of my sebenzas as slow as I want, even keep the lock from engaging quickly with my hand, and no problems period. I felt that it needed to be said because I see excuses that made me wonder why should the owner/buyer of a knife even need to worry with this? Just my opinion, please take it only as that:thumbup:

I am sure it is just a fluke or previous owner but...
 
I have to say this. This is why I like the Sebenza. The blade centers closed perfect no matter how much pressure the lock applies (even if I push on the lock). I can open any of my sebenzas as slow as I want, even keep the lock from engaging quickly with my hand, and no problems period. I felt that it needed to be said because I see excuses that made me wonder why should the owner/buyer of a knife even need to worry with this? Just my opinion, please take it only as that:thumbup:

I am sure it is just a fluke or previous owner but...

Are you saying that CR has never had one issue with with any knife that it has ever produced? Is this the claim that you're making? I have never seen any other instance like this with an XM-18.
 
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