Home Built Surface Grinder

WyldStyl3 said:
I was thinking about getting one of those 2x2x6 switched magnets. They're like a really small version of the magnetic chucks on full size surface grinders. Like below.

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I have a few of the smaller ones for holding dial indicators and I'm not sure if they have enough holding strength. Maybe if you modified it. All the ones I own the 2 outer ridges on the bottom are where the holding power comes from. Not sure if you milked those down how it would work. All of mine a kinda V shaped on the bottom.
 
They typically barely hold indicators. I have a couple 2-2-4 size on gooseneck lights, sort of work. Maybe I just need better ones.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
I noticed when I took the table apart, that some of the holes that hold the sides together are slightly oversized. I think this is on purpose, as when I put it back together I was able to make the fir with the slide tighter simply by pressing them together as I tightened the screws. Mine is VERY tight now and has no slip. You may have to play with the tightness a bit to find the best fit that still allows movement.
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Mine has play between the brass trapezoid piece the stuff is bolted to and the base. Everything else is super snug. I don't know how to make the brass piece tighter inside the track.
 
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I got my chuck cut out and the magnets epoxy on. I think it came out pretty good. Extreme thanks to Stromberg for getting the understanding. I still have a question about mounting. Will post some pictures on the question here in a few. This is going slow for me, I took a spinal injury that causes some issues with my hands and thinking. So it might take me a bit to get my head wrapped around things.



 
Take your time and don't feel you have to get in a rush. We're here to help anyway we can.

Ken H>
 
Here is the finished piece with magnets epoxy in. I put the before pick. Also here is my question. On the two blocks. The black adjustable one and the one aluminum that mounts to the rail. The holes do not line up. Only 2 will align. Did you all drill and tap these to get all 4 holes. If so which one did you drill and tap? Also is there a bolt you used for connection. I have some that will fit but I will have to cut them down to about 2 mm because of the clearance between the rail and its carriage piece (alum piece with holes). Sorry I dont know the technical names for these.



 
Ken H> said:
Take your time and don't feel you have to get in a rush. We're here to help anyway we can.

Ken H>
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Ken, I cant thank you all enough. I will get this built. It will take time but I am determined to do it. I was an automation engineer before this all happened and made straight A's all through school and college. Frustrating how Something like this is hard for me to understand and put together. Strange how the world works and really makes you step back and see things for what they are. Also many don't know how well they have it until its taken away. Everything before my injury is crystal clear like it happened yesterday, everything after is sort of like a dream. So I have to read, try and then try again to get it correct.
 
Ladams19 said:
The black adjustable one and the one aluminum that mounts to the rail. The holes do not line up. Only 2 will align. Did you all drill and tap these to get all 4 holes. If so which one did you drill and tap?
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I guess I need a photo to fully understand what you're referring to on the "black adjustable one". Are we talking about the rail with the bearings that allow it to slide back 'n forth? I was going to post a photo, but my internet connection is acting up and only a few sites will load. Most sites will not load. If I use my cell phone hotspot they all load nicely, but boy does that eat up data in a hurry.

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
I guess I need a photo to fully understand what you're referring to on the "black adjustable one". Are we talking about the rail with the bearings that allow it to slide back 'n forth? I was going to post a photo, but my internet connection is acting up and only a few sites will load. Most sites will not load. If I use my cell phone hotspot they all load nicely, but boy does that eat up data in a hurry.

Ken H>
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The hole pattern on the PDV brand adjustable slide versus the hole pattern on the carriage for the rail. I will post another pic showing my meaning. Thanks for your help. I noticed on the video from Ken M that he only used 2 bolts to hold it together. So maybe that is OK.

 
Here is a screen shot from Kevin McGovern's video. It shows only the 2 bolts. That was my concern. I was wondering should I drill and tap it to have 4 holding points, because as is I can only get 2.

 
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Ladams19 said:
The black adjustable one and the one aluminum that mounts to the rail. The holes do not line up. Only 2 will align. Did you all drill and tap these to get all 4 holes. If so which one did you drill and tap?
Click to expand...

I guess I need a photo to fully understand what you're referring to on the "black adjustable one". Are we talking about the rail with the bearings that allow it to slide back 'n forth? I was going to post a photo, but my internet connection is acting up and only a few sites will load. Most sites will not load. If I use my cell phone hotspot they all load nicely, but boy does that eat up data in a hurry.

Ken H>
 
well after trying out some obm drive and tracking wheels, I'm not impressed and will likely be building my own one of these. Time to read up =) Ladams, was Ken's video the most helpful you have found so far?
 
razor-edge-knives said:
well after trying out some obm drive and tracking wheels, I'm not impressed and will likely be building my own one of these. Time to read up =) Ladams, was Ken's video the most helpful you have found so far?
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All the videos are really good. None of them really show how its put together just how it worked and some explanation as to how it worked. Kevin M opened the hood so to speak and showed how it was fit together. That helped tremendously being I have some issues with visualization. I had a mistype and typed Kens Video, it should have been Kevin McGovern's video. Sorry about that guys. I have read every line and watched every video several times to include saving every video to hard drive in case they get deleted. Stromberg had great prints and helped me get the idea of how it went together. Also the placement of the magnets and number was Stromberg as well. I used his idea when I cut the groove for the magnets. It has serious hold power by the way. I can barely get a blade off of it so I am not worried about it ever, ever flying off. I am more worried about just getting it off without putting a scratch or the likes on it. Josh, love the work you did on the ASHBM by the way. Thinking about doing mine the same. Even though I have the equipment I just dont quite trust myself enough to do that yet.
 
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Well well, that's interesting - you were able to quote my post, but it doesn't show up until well after your post. OK, now I see the photos I see what you're talking about. To my the slide fit the way I wanted, I drilled 'n tapped 4 new holes. Are the two holes you've got screws in on the same end? I'd really want one on each end and opposite sides - catty cornered from each other. Take a look at how I did my 4 screws.
IMG_2727.jpg
 
I used these and they are crazy strong. I slipped while putting them epoxy and one flew up and flipped and stuck on another magnet throwing epoxy all over the place. I said a curse word and about got the edge of my finger cut by the magnet itself grabbing another magnet. They are no joke. These are the same as Stromberg sourced from post #98. I got all my part numbers from that post. The suppliers all shipped pretty quick. Got everything within like 10 days for slowest shipment.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Neo...200.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46264c4dMDAkCi

Neodymium Magnets New Top Fashion Imanes Aimant 15 Pcs N50 Super Strong Block Cuboid Magnets 60x10x4 Mm Rare Earth Neodymium
 
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Ken H> said:
Well well, that's interesting - you were able to quote my post, but it doesn't show up until well after your post. OK, now I see the photos I see what you're talking about. To my the slide fit the way I wanted, I drilled 'n tapped 4 new holes. Are the two holes you've got screws in on the same end? I'd really want one on each end and opposite sides - catty cornered from each other. Take a look at how I did my 4 screws.
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Yes on the same end and I dont like the way it looks. This is what I was thinking about doing but wanted to know from gained knowledge if it was a good idea or not. Thank you for this. I will do the same. What type bolt did you end up using there, size as well? looks big from the picture. Maybe just the head.
 
Thanks I was looking at the 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 thick sizes. I was thinking the 1/2 would be way too strong
 
Ladams, I used 1/4X20 with a countersunk head. That allows the head to be flush and not be in the way. It's screwed into the 1/2" aluminum plate below.
 
WC53 said:
Thanks I was looking at the 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 thick sizes. I was thinking the 1/2 would be way too strong
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Testing out the chuck I put a 9 inch blade I just finished cutting out. It was a basic bushcraft shape to get the idea. I could not pull the blade off, at all. Had to slide it. So mind going I put a longer blade thinking I could get a better gripe on it. Nope, too strong. I can not move it by lifting. Have to slide it and even that feels a bit scary but I will get used to it. I am going to make a smaller chuck and set up once I get this larger one made. Need to learn to make it first before going too custom. This one has 20 magnets so you will need 2 orders to make the chuck as large as I did, but honestly unless you are making larger knives you dont need a chuck this large. This will cover everything I build and plan to build. I want to make one 1/2 the size for smaller blades and ease of use. Its getting heavy as well as a total assembly and I used aluminum for most of it just because its easier for me to machine as a non machinists with zero machining skill.
 
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