Homemade heat treat oven

[jbblount]

Decided to build an oven. Got the box built. Waiting on the bricks to get here. Also got the control box built and wired up.

 

[Mudbug007]

Hey, that's pretty sweet! How about giving us a WIP and showing us how you did it?

 

[jawilder]

what kind of latch do you have to hold the door closed?

 

[Horsewright]

Agreed, WIP please if ya can.

 

[Justin King]

Looks good! That SSR is a monster!

 

[jbblount]

what kind of latch do you have to hold the door closed?

I'm not sure yet. I haven't decided on that yet.

I haven't taken very many pictures. I'll try and take some of the rest of it.

 

[jbblount]

Looks good! That SSR is a monster!

It's two 40 amp ssr's. That's 2 external mounted heat sinks.

 

[jbblount]

Got the bricks in.

 

[jbblount]

Here I used a big piece of 60 grit sand paper to help some of them fit better.

 

[jbblount]

I used a 1/4" core box router bit in the drill press to cut the grooves for the elements. Then used a 5/16" bolt to open them up a bit. The elements are .29" I think.

 

[jbblount]

Putting the sheet metal on the door. The c-clamps are really handy when drilling for the rivets. Keeps the sheet metal from bending. Plus it keeps all the holes lined up.

 

[jbblount]

Got all the bricks fit into place. Got the groves cut. And put the door on.

 

[jbblount]

Mounted the control and relay box.

 

[Rick Marchand]

How are you addressing the gap at the door? I have seen a 1/2 thick brick cut to the cavity size and cemented to the door. It acts as a plug when it is shut. I suspect that without something the angle iron is creating almost 1/4" of gap exposing the metal frame to the hot interior.

Kinda like this...

 

[allwayzfishin]

Jb,

What was your total cost on the control box and relay ?

Where did you purchase it at?

Looks really nice and well thought out..a clean build, I hope it functions properly for you

 

[jbblount]

Yea Rick there is a gap. I like your idea. You think I could use this to stick it to the door?

http://www.rutland.com/productinfo/stove--gasket-cement.html

 

[jbblount]

Jb,

What was your total cost on the control box and relay ?

Where did you purchase it at?

Looks really nice and well thought out..a clean build, I hope it functions properly for you

I spent around $200 on the control. Im using 240v so I had to get 2 ssr's and 2 heat sinks. It would be a little cheaper with 120v.

I purchased it all from Auberins.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[Dixieblade57]

This is a sweeeeeeeeeeeet idea! This one is definitely going in my save file!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Normally, the door frame is thinner, and the bricks are trimmed so they stick out and fit the chamber by about 3/4".

Her is how you can do to modify yours, without trying to glue on pieces of brick or making a new door:
Mark the inside frame edges on the door bricks with a knife.
Disassemble the door, and set the bricks aside for the moment, keeping them in their positions.
Cut some extra bricks to 3/4" thick, and fit to the door frame so they sit against the sheet metal.
Cut a rabbit in the old door bricks so they fit in place over the thing bricks, and stick out.
Trim in a slight wedge shape (10-15 degrees) so they will self fit the chamber with a few open/close motions. They will show the snug places and you can trim until the fit is dead tight when the door closes.

If you decide to go with adding a piece to the existing door, use a piece of Insulboard and some stainless sheet metal screws, as well as the cement you showed. It will hold up better than thin pieces of brick.

 

[Rick Marchand]

It looks as though Sugar Creek cut a .75" deep pocket in the door and cemented in 1 1/2 bricks. It is not a flush mount like my first suggestion. Perhaps with expansion and contraction, the flush mount is dodgy. Stacy's idea is definately more sturdy. Either way, it's wise to address the seal.

Rick