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Homemade heat treat oven

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by jbblount, Feb 19, 2012.

  1. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Decided to build an oven. Got the box built. Waiting on the bricks to get here. Also got the control box built and wired up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mudbug007

    Mudbug007

    Nov 29, 2010
    Hey, that's pretty sweet! How about giving us a WIP and showing us how you did it?
     
  3. jawilder

    jawilder

    Jun 27, 2006
    what kind of latch do you have to hold the door closed?
     
  4. Horsewright

    Horsewright KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 4, 2011
    Agreed, WIP please if ya can.
     
  5. Justin King

    Justin King

    Nov 8, 2009
    Looks good! That SSR is a monster!
     
  6. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    I'm not sure yet. I haven't decided on that yet.

    I haven't taken very many pictures. I'll try and take some of the rest of it.
     
  7. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    It's two 40 amp ssr's. That's 2 external mounted heat sinks.
     
  8. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Got the bricks in.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Here I used a big piece of 60 grit sand paper to help some of them fit better.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    I used a 1/4" core box router bit in the drill press to cut the grooves for the elements. Then used a 5/16" bolt to open them up a bit. The elements are .29" I think.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Putting the sheet metal on the door. The c-clamps are really handy when drilling for the rivets. Keeps the sheet metal from bending. Plus it keeps all the holes lined up.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Got all the bricks fit into place. Got the groves cut. And put the door on.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    Mounted the control and relay box.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Rick Marchand

    Rick Marchand Donkey on the Edge Moderator

    Jan 6, 2005
    How are you addressing the gap at the door? I have seen a 1/2 thick brick cut to the cavity size and cemented to the door. It acts as a plug when it is shut. I suspect that without something the angle iron is creating almost 1/4" of gap exposing the metal frame to the hot interior.

    Kinda like this...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2012
  15. allwayzfishin

    allwayzfishin

    30
    Dec 10, 2011
    Jb,

    What was your total cost on the control box and relay ?

    Where did you purchase it at?

    Looks really nice and well thought out..a clean build, I hope it functions properly for you
     
  16. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
  17. jbblount

    jbblount

    273
    Aug 15, 2010
    I spent around $200 on the control. Im using 240v so I had to get 2 ssr's and 2 heat sinks. It would be a little cheaper with 120v.

    I purchased it all from Auberins.

    Thanks for the comments.
     
  18. Dixieblade57

    Dixieblade57

    Jun 20, 2007
    This is a sweeeeeeeeeeeet idea! This one is definitely going in my save file!
     
  19. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    Normally, the door frame is thinner, and the bricks are trimmed so they stick out and fit the chamber by about 3/4".

    Her is how you can do to modify yours, without trying to glue on pieces of brick or making a new door:
    Mark the inside frame edges on the door bricks with a knife.
    Disassemble the door, and set the bricks aside for the moment, keeping them in their positions.
    Cut some extra bricks to 3/4" thick, and fit to the door frame so they sit against the sheet metal.
    Cut a rabbit in the old door bricks so they fit in place over the thing bricks, and stick out.
    Trim in a slight wedge shape (10-15 degrees) so they will self fit the chamber with a few open/close motions. They will show the snug places and you can trim until the fit is dead tight when the door closes.

    If you decide to go with adding a piece to the existing door, use a piece of Insulboard and some stainless sheet metal screws, as well as the cement you showed. It will hold up better than thin pieces of brick.
     
  20. Rick Marchand

    Rick Marchand Donkey on the Edge Moderator

    Jan 6, 2005
    It looks as though Sugar Creek cut a .75" deep pocket in the door and cemented in 1 1/2 bricks. It is not a flush mount like my first suggestion. Perhaps with expansion and contraction, the flush mount is dodgy. Stacy's idea is definately more sturdy. Either way, it's wise to address the seal.

    Rick

    [​IMG]
     

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