Hoping to order my first 2x72

Awesome thanks Ken. Thanks to everyone else as well

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Wow I am amazed at the belt selection. Way more out there for a 2x72 than the 1x30. I don't have much of a budget left for belts but I thought I would order a couple anyway. I know I'll want to start throwing sparks as soon as I get set up. On the 1x30 I typically went 60 gr blaze, 12 gr blaze, and then some trizact gators. Sometimes I would finish with scotch brite belts. Should I stick with this in the bigger grinder or try something else. Sorry for all the questions and thanks again for all the help. If I never sell a knife on here all the help I've gotten has been worth the membership.

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Since I am in nearly the same boat as you right now I am no expert. However I did get a chance to visit the KC Customs shop a few months back and Ken was gracious enough to grind out a blank as a "Quickie" lesson. 80 grit zirc belt to cut the bevel and a 220 j-flex to near finish and he literally did it in less than 10 minutes. Mind you this is a product of many years grinding but think of it a starting point due to you will be able to remove steel MUCH easier with the added abrasive. Seeing is believing in this case
 
pleasanthill said:
I'm with Randy as well going with the VFD if you can afford it. I only have pulleys on mine because it is a treadmill motor and trying to convert the pulley on the motor was kinda out of the question and I wanted to increase the final RPM. Plus I got it for free and a motor and VFD are out of my price range for now. Eventually I want to go with a 3hp and VFD but can't afford them right now. Really the only reason I am able to build my grinder right now is because I got the motor for free and using the controls from the treadmill is my VFD...
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I have a treadmill motor also and been trying to figure out a way to convert the thin drive wheel to a 2" wide wheel. Anyone have a good conversion? I don't have a lathe or mill, just basic tools.
 
oldwolf said:
I have a treadmill motor also and been trying to figure out a way to convert the thin drive wheel to a 2" wide wheel. Anyone have a good conversion? I don't have a lathe or mill, just basic tools.
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I'm using the original pulley and added a shaft so I didn't have to get into converting the pulley on the motor (actually 2 shafts, but I wanted to increase the belt speed). I am under the impression most of them are threaded on and not simply keyed, but I may be wrong, I know mine is. Have you seen my WIP thread? It may give you some ideas.
 
OK. Motor, vfd,grinder, tool rest, and drive wheel ordered. Now just figuring out what to do for belts and working on getting 220 to the other side of my shop.

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josh81 said:
OK. Motor, vfd,grinder, tool rest, and drive wheel ordered. Now just figuring out what to do for belts and working on getting 220 to the other side of my shop.

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CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! Save some money while you're waiting on delivery. How far does the 220 have to go?
 
Basically the opposite end of my shop. Roughly 50' or so

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I found a junked camper and used the 50 amp service line for my welder. Think i paid like $5.00 - $10.00

Edit: it's 25 ft..
 
oldwolf said:
I have a treadmill motor also and been trying to figure out a way to convert the thin drive wheel to a 2" wide wheel. Anyone have a good conversion? I don't have a lathe or mill, just basic tools.
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On the first grinder I built (ironically out of a treadmill) I bored a chunk of wood for the shaft, carved it reasonably balanced, then using a block of wood as a tool rest across the frame of the grinder, turned the motor on and turned the pulley like you would on a wood lathe with a chisel.

It was a pretty shade tree contraption but it made a few knives and was free.
 
I haven't opened it yet but the grinder showed up at my house at 11:00 today. I ordered it yesterday at around 2 in the afternoon. That's awfully impressive!

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kuraki said:
On the first grinder I built (ironically out of a treadmill) I bored a chunk of wood for the shaft, carved it reasonably balanced, then using a block of wood as a tool rest across the frame of the grinder, turned the motor on and turned the pulley like you would on a wood lathe with a chisel.

It was a pretty shade tree contraption but it made a few knives and was free.
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Somewhere I saw where someone had removed the skinny wheel. Did you try that? Not sure if it's screwed on or pressed?
 
Ken H> said:
2hp 3ph 3600 rpm motor for $127 shipped http://goo.gl/905jmq
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In my limited experience, the Iron Horse motors seem to be a pretty good bang for the buck. One thing I did notice on mine, however, is that there was a small gap/hole on one spot where the casting for the shaft bearing mated to the motor housing. Looked like a good place for dust to creep in and eventually make a mess of things. I just put a small piece of gorilla tape over it, problem solved. May not be an issue with others, but just something I noticed on mine.
 
Drew, I don't remember any openings that concerned me on my 2hp 3ph Iron Horse motor. I looked but the shaft end is covered by the mounting plate for the 56C mount. Looking at photos and the CAD drawings I don't see an opening like you mention - perhaps it was something unique to your motor? In order for the motor to be CSA certified TEFC there can not be any openings from outside to inside.

Later
 
Ken H> said:
Drew, I don't remember any openings that concerned me on my 2hp 3ph Iron Horse motor. I looked but the shaft end is covered by the mounting plate for the 56C mount. Looking at photos and the CAD drawings I don't see an opening like you mention - perhaps it was something unique to your motor? In order for the motor to be CSA certified TEFC there can not be any openings from outside to inside.

Later
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It looked like possibly a bad spot in the casting. It was right were the stamped motor frame mated to the bearing casting on the shaft side, and it was pretty small. Definitely didn't look intentional, but I wasn't going to ship it back over something so trivial. IIRC, a couple of the the base mount screws were through holes too, so that when the base is removed, the screws need to be replaced, or holes taped over.

Now to be fair, I didn't shine a light or probe the holes with anything to see if they did in fact go all the way through, but it looked as if they might have. I was surprised, because it is claimed as a TEFC, but maybe screw holes don't count, and I really do think it was on oversight on the casting hole.
 
You are correct, the foot mount screws do go thru the first housing. I do not know if that is open to the actual inside of motor or not, but I did put the bolts back in to close those holes up. Like you, I don't have a clue if that affects the TEFC rating or not since the manuf could say "designed to have bolts installed".

Ken H>
 
Well the motor showed up today. Just waiting on the vfd now.

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You are getting close.... and excited also I'm sure. Good luck 'n have fun.

Ken H>
 
So it looks like the vfd won't be here until Friday. I'm trying to get as many things ready as possible. I don't have a belt so I can't really bolt the motor down yet. I know you guys have said to mount the vfd in an enclosure. How do you get to the controls? Do you just have to open and close the door every time? Should I have an external power switch?

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I've seen guys use those old fashioned tool boxes you carried around like a lunch box mounted vertically, but really you could use anything from a ammo box to an actual lunch box as long as the vfd will fit. Drill some holes in the top or sides and tape or glue some fish tank filter floss behind the holes and just keep it closed until you need to turn it on or adjust for speed. Not ideal but it gets the job done until you can get a nema 4 vfd. If you want to get clever, depending on the vfd, you might be able to extend or install a remote switch on the outside of the box but I imagine it would be a lot of work to do that with the speed controls.

Good luck with the new grinder!

-Clint
 
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