How do I get H1 to Rust?

F

frank k

Joined
May 8, 2001
Messages
2,548
So far a month in a half filled jar of sea water hasn’t done it to a Pacific Salt; not only didn’t it rust, but I am starting to think it’s just getting shinier.

Anyone have any ideas on what will cause H1 to rust? I want to stay with things that are edible (or at the very least non-toxic) and that won’t harm the FRN handles.


Thanks,



- Frank
 
You might have better luck with a knife made out of O-1 is a jar of salt water, It will rust in no time. :D ;) :p

Why do you want to try and make H-1 oxidize? Seems to me it passed the test.

Take care,
Scott
 
If it passed the vinegar test I don't think you could get much worse short of battery acid.
 
That would be funny if you left the knife in a stronger solution over night. When you checked on it the following day, there was nothing left but the blade. :D
 
Maybe try wrapping the knife, along with several already rusted pieces of metal, in a cotton shirt that is soaked in sea-water and then let it air dry.

Check on it in several weeks.

If that does'nt make it rust, then I'm sold!

Allen.
 
Smoking (99% concentrated) sulphuric acid should do it....oh, you specified non toxic....oh well :). You could try oven cleaner (sodium hydroxid) not exactly non toxic either, but after all you spray it into your oven, too.

Good luck with your experiment, keep us posted!
 
Allen,

Wouldn’t that just get the rust form the rusty stuff on the H1?


HoB,

Thanks :) but right now I am trying to concentrate on edible/non-toxic. I definitely want to avoid anything that will dissolve the FRN. :eek: :D



- Frank
 
Steven Roos said:
AFAIK, it has no carbon, so it shouldn't rust under any conditions.
Click to expand...

It has carbon, just less, and its the iron in the steel that forms rust not the carbon. This is why talonite (cobalt + chromium) and titanium dont rust because thay do not contain iron (non-ferrous alloys).

-Lyle
 
Use a stronger oxidizer, as suggested. Sulfuric acid would, indeed, be a good start. Passing a DC electrical current through the blade while in the oxidizing solution might "help."

You have already extablished that the knife will not rust under real-world conditions. What's the point ? (10,000 people post questions on how to keep a knife from rusting and he wants to know how to damage his knife. :rolleyes: )
 
Put a piece of copper in good electrical contact with the blade and then sink it in sea water.

TLM
 
Thomas Linton said:
Use a stronger oxidizer, as suggested. Sulfuric acid would, indeed, be a good start. Passing a DC electrical current through the blade while in the oxidizing solution might "help."

You have already extablished that the knife will not rust under real-world conditions. What's the point ? (10,000 people post questions on how to keep a knife from rusting and he wants to know how to damage his knife. :rolleyes: )
Click to expand...
Nah, I just want to know if there is anything non toxic that will not harm the FRN that will rust the H1. If I just wanted to know how to damage it, I might try sulfuric acid and DC current…:rolleyes: :D


Put a piece of copper in good electrical contact with the blade and then sink it in sea water.
Click to expand...
Done.

I wrapped some copper wire around the Spyderhole and tossed it back in the seawater….we will see what happens. Thanks for the idea. :)



- Frank
 
The copper wire may work since it should be a cathode compared to steel. You could try adding a little copper sulphate solution. It is not non-toxic, but at least easier to get. You just buy root killer at the hardware store. The copper will go out of solution and the iron will go into solution. This will leave some copper on the blade.
 
Thought of something else: Get some peroxide solution in the Pharmacy as concentrated as you can find it. The solution is not exactly safe to drink but it will leave no toxic residue on the blade once rinsed once. But make sure you immerse the blade only. The peroxide might indeed do unwanted things to the FRN handle.

Purely speculation, but I wonder if the edgeholding of H-1 is mainly due to its hardness (Rc 65 at the edge according to the Sal) while it has a faily low abrasion resistance. Maybe Cliff gets around to test this at some point. If this is true, H-1 should hold up very well with respect to wittling, cutting on a cutting board etc., but should dull relatively quickly on cardboard for example.
This would explain, why edgeholding (again according to Sal) is "only" around Aus-6 while it is much higher hardened.
 
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