How do you Sharpen your Fiddleback???

[Diomedes Industries]

I tend to use japanese water stones 400 - 800 - 2000 then to strops - black, green, pink, plain.

HOWEVER - if you watch, understand, and follow the sharpening videos on Derrik's site - you could do a lot worse. I think those are VERY well done.

TF

 

[thurin]

So can I use a strop on my scandis? I thought I heard you can and they will eventually become convex. It seems like from what I'm reading that strops are the most versatile and field friendly

Maybe Derick will set me up with one of those kits! :thumbup:

I lightly strop my scandis as a last step of sharpening (or I'll use the Sharpmaker). Puts a fine micro-bevel on it and seems to toughen it up a little. When out in the field, I'll use my field strop and worry about "fixing" it when i get back.

 

[xxkcxx]

I have a wicked edge I just haven't set it up and tried it yet... I just would like something a bit smaller

 

[dcycleman]

If you are using a leather strop with compound, is there a reason to go with the mousepad/papers method too? Are you guys just reprofiling on the mousepad and then maintaining on the loaded strop?

 

[Smiddy]

What about the ken onion work sharp?? E2E did a review on the old one and it looks awesome !! Anyone use one?

 

[schmittie]

If you are using a leather strop with compound, is there a reason to go with the mousepad/papers method too? Are you guys just reprofiling on the mousepad and then maintaining on the loaded strop?

A mousepad/paper can provide more abrasion than a strop and compound will. But in my experience, a mousepad is too much cushion for my tastes. If not used 'just right' it can easily round your edge. Andy has suggested before to use sandpaper over a strop, since the leather will provide just enough give. When my Fiddlebacks need just a little more than a strop can provide, I'll use the sandpaper over a strop combo then finish with black and green.

There is NO way my custom convex knives will ever see a work sharp or other contraption. It's just not my thing.

 

[xxkcxx]

Well I did end up buying a KSF kit AND a pair of strops from Flexx strops. Can't wait to try them... Also I will try to get my wicked edge set up and see if I can get the hang of it. I am still open to any more wisdom to be had...thanks for everyone so far.

 

[dcycleman]

A mousepad/paper can provide more abrasion than a strop and compound will. But in my experience, a mousepad is too much cushion for my tastes. If not used 'just right' it can easily round your edge. Andy has suggested before to use sandpaper over a strop, since the leather will provide just enough give. When my Fiddlebacks need just a little more than a strop can provide, I'll use the sandpaper over a strop combo then finish with black and green.

There is NO way my custom convex knives will ever see a work sharp or other contraption. It's just not my thing.

Makes sense

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I simply put the paper ON my strop - and then I have no issue. I have a wooden back strop.

There seems to be two ways of sharpening a convex knife with a abrasive and backing.

One is a soft touch on the edge and the other is much more firm with a harder backing that runs more of the blade and turns up at the edge. It depends on what makes sense for you.

TF

 

[Smiddy]

Anyone know how the actual knife makers put the edge on? Fiddleback , MLL knives , Fletcher, JK or others ? I would really like to hear from those guys, they sharpen thousands of knives. If it good enough for them it's good enough for me. Experience talks....

 

[schmittie]

If you look at Andy's Fiddleback lineup thread he has a link to a video of how he put the edge on.


Edit to add: and I take that back. It looks like he just redid that thread this month. There used to be a video. I swear!

 

[awestib]

I got rid of the "Microbevel" of my convex Arete on stones. I like a hard surface better now since it gives me more control over the original convex curvature. Think about it - In order to restore a full convex grind (without changing the final edge/apex angle) you will have to follow the whole convex curvature and grind it away all along! This is quite a bit of work. That's why I would prefer a zero convex grind and the end user can apply a "V-microbevel" if wished for. Applying one is way easier than to get rid of it after!!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I simply put the paper ON my strop - and then I have no issue. I have a wooden back strop.

There seems to be two ways of sharpening a convex knife with a abrasive and backing.

One is a soft touch on the edge and the other is much more firm with a harder backing that runs more of the blade and turns up at the edge. It depends on what makes sense for you.

TF

I've only used the back of the strop for using sandpaper because I'm worried about the abrasive contaminating the leather. Same reason why it's a bad idea to sand a partially finished carving. In all reality the abrasive probably wouldn't cause much of a problem if you aren't going for a mirror polish. It wouldn't hurt to glue a bare piece of leather to the back side for a little give under the paper though. In fact, I may try this. I too have heard that a mouse pad has a bit too much give and can wrap around and blunt the apex.

Please do!

Sorry man, I forgot to check back. When I get home I'll snap a pic.

 

[TPVT]

A mousepad/paper can provide more abrasion than a strop and compound will. But in my experience, a mousepad is too much cushion for my tastes. If not used 'just right' it can easily round your edge. Andy has suggested before to use sandpaper over a strop, since the leather will provide just enough give. When my Fiddlebacks need just a little more than a strop can provide, I'll use the sandpaper over a strop combo then finish with black and green.

There is NO way my custom convex knives will ever see a work sharp or other contraption. It's just not my thing.

Yup. This is what i do. Sandpaper on top of my strop. Then strop. Then the leather belt out of my pants. I will also sometimes run it across a ceramic rod first.

There's some pretty nice tutorials out there on how you can do this method "in the field". One I liked was a guy rolled a couple of inches of 400, 600, and 1000 grit strips up in a 2" thick, 8" long chunk of leather. The leather had eyelets riveted in on each end and he'd tie one end of the leather to a tree and held the other taught. Then he'd just convex like normal. The fact that the leather was pulled and off the ground gave it the "give" you need to convex correctly (like the mousepad method). Took a bit longer but I liked the idea. And, when rolled up, that was a small, cheap, light-weight solution.


I saw another one (that I think I may try myself) was where a guy glued a chunk of leather to the top of an altoids tin. Kept his sandpaper and compound in the tin and then would just stretch the sandpaper over the leather piece, tuck the edges under the lid and closed it. Made a nice little surface. Might be too small for a larger knife but I bet it'd be a great little solution for a hiking buddy. plus he could strop after on the leather.

I love these threads. I like to see what everyone else is doing. for example, i really love that altoids idea that solid4ever posted. crimping the paper when shutting the lid is a great idea. i will be adding this to my field bag. thanks!

 

[Ed G]

I got rid of the "Microbevel" of my convex Arete on stones. I like a hard surface better now since it gives me more control over the original convex curvature. Think about it - In order to restore a full convex grind (without changing the final edge/apex angle) you will have to follow the whole convex curvature and grind it away all along! This is quite a bit of work. That's why I would prefer a zero convex grind and the end user can apply a "V-microbevel" if wished for. Applying one is way easier than to get rid of it after!!

Please explain this. By that I mean please explain the terms "Zero Convex Grind" "Microbevel" and "V-Microbevel".
Thanks,
Edge

 

[knutelut]

Zero Convex: think of Bark rivers knives, the blade is a slight convex from the spine all the way to the edge
Microbevel: can be both V-shaped as from stones or a strop hence convex. If you look the FF blades you'll see that they are convex from the grind line to the micro bevel, the cutting area.

 

[knutelut]

As for sharpening I use Spyderco sharp maker ceramics freehand for minor touch ups and removal of metal then strop the blades.
I use a 1x30 for my bigger thicker blades as well as hatchets/axes

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Kepha, my field strop is packed, this one has the same feature.

Cut a slot at the top.

Cut paper to fit then you have one hand holding the paper taught at the bottom and strop with the other.

Take 1 or more grits to make a good field kit.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

In fact, I may try this. I too have heard that a mouse pad has a bit too much give and can wrap around and blunt the apex.

I think this is true for those that have a heavier hand, like I do.

So - here is what I think about convex sharpening:

First - to clarify terms (for the terms of this discussion):

a) Convex Grind and Edge - Where the convex grind goes all the way to the edge (apex).

b) Micro Bevel Edge - An initial grind (of whatever type) with a secondary bevel at the edge.

C) Full Convex - A grind from the spine down to the edge.

D) Sabre - A grind from a little below the spine down to the edge.

E) Scandivex - A hybrid type grind where a person puts a scandi style grind on a knife but instead of using a traditional V grind - they use a convex edge.



With all of this done - Andy, on his convex knives, generally does a full or sabre grind and finishes it with a secondary micro bevel.

Some people keep this initial secondary bevel and thus can use something like a sharpmaker, a set of crock sticks, a simple sharpening stone, or something alone those lines. Essentially they are treating this knife like the grind on your average pocket knife and only sharpening the secondary bevel.

With this said - many people find that simply sharpening of the secondary bevel, over time, gets them to a secondary micro bevel that is too steep - and thus now and again will take a little off the primary convex grind.

Personally - the first thing that I do is to use Japanese water stones (or in a low grit sandpaper) and grind the initial bevel all the way to the edge (making the Convex grind and edge all one grind). I then take this one grind up to 4000 grit (on Japanese water stones or about 2000 grit on Wet Dry sandpaper) and then take the whole thing to a JRE 4 sided strop bat. I polish the entire grind down to the edge being careful not to push too hard at the edge (this will cause the substrate to give too much and cause the very edge to become more obtuse).

I use this method for all Convex grinds.


For True Scandi Grinds (like that on my Arete) I use Japanese water stones (that have been freshly lapped) and bring the edge to 4000 grit and the strop lightly as mentioned above. Yes - yes - this puts a slight convex microbevel on the edge of a scandi. I am sure my stones were not PERFECTLY flat to begin with so I suppose this would be a convex grind to some people. Blah Blah Blah. This is at a much more micro level than my unaided eyes are capable of taking in and so I don't worry about it.


The point, as I see it - is to bring whatever edge you have (Micro bevel - full convex - scandivex - Scandi - etc...) to the most true edge you can (the right side meeting the left side at the same point all the way down the edge - and the angle you desire) bringing it to the highest polish and most true edge that you can. The rest is a matter of preference in grinds and angles (essentially geometry).

That is my two pennies on the topic.

TF

 

[MajorD]

I guess I have a K.I.S.S. mentality. Although it's probably more of a lack of ability for other methods. I use a hone loaded with black and green compound for almost all of my sharpening needs. I only use a sandpaper if I have damaged an edge or have really neglected it. I use the same method on all of my blades regardless of the brand, the maker, the type of knife etc...

I carry various sizes of hones depending on my trip and needs. The altoid tin with leather works well for a small fire/sharpening kit.

I've loaded a strip of cardboard (from the back of a spiral folder) with compound and thrown it in my bag. I've also carried 1 x 30 belts in various grits. They roll up small and compact. Just hook one end to a fixed point and pull it tight.