How do you Sharpen your Fiddleback???

Joe Duder said:
I like buying Fiddlebacks that say things like "zeroed out, razor sharp bevel, has been stropped to a mirror, hair popping finish..." I'd even pay more for it, if I knew the seller knows what they're doing with a stone and strop. IMO, it adds value.
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Agreed, I am far from an expert, but if I do sharpen a knife that I later plan to sell, I use my wicked edge and confirm all angles with an angle gauge to ensure symmetry. I'll take the stones up to 1000 grit, then hand strop black/white/green/red. Its all personal preference; I just like my bevels a bit bigger than FBF's microbevel; makes field sharpening (which is overrated ;)) easier IMO.
 
mistwalker said:
Yeah, lol, just hit one of those sink or swim periods...just trying to keep my head above water lol :)
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Know how that feels. I'm going through some health issues. It sucks. Keep your head up, I'll do the same. ;)

I sometimes sharpen with a 1x30 also. Gotta be very careful. Water bucket is your friend, but dunking can cause flash rust. I try to keep it from getting hot in the first place, but it takes patience. Good sharp belts are a must.

I hear great things about the Ken Onion Work Sharp for anyone considering powered sharpening.
 
Has anyone here ever used a wicked edge to convex a Fiddleback. I am wondering what angles to use or do I just eyeball it?
 
Yes. Bottom pin setting (unless HB or BB or any small knife), use ABCD length gauge (most are c/d) and 40° inclusive. Start with 20° on each side from 100 grit. After you have a burr on 100 proceed 10-15 strokes on each side to 1000. Move out to 22° on each side and do 15-20 strokes on each side with 1000 grit, then go to 21° each side and repeat. Go back to 20, do 10 more passes each side still on 1000, then strop white/green 30+ strokes on each side each compound.

You will wind up with a 40° inclusive microbevel and the stropping will blend the 22/21 (44/42° inclusive) over time into a full convex, leaving you plenty of steel behind the edge, but aggressive enough to even make 3/16" slicey!

Oh... And absolutely use an angle gauge + sharpee!!!!
 
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The acuteness of the angles used is certainly a personal prefference. I agree 100% with Will's suggestions, that a 22, 21, 20 degree faceted edge stopped into a convex shape will proved a very useful edge with plenty of steel behind it for strength.

I have sharpened Andy's 01 to 15 dps, and I found that this acuteness is prone to rolling in my use. I have also sharpened 16 dps, and have not had problems with edges rolling on me with my typical use. So, if I am putting a convex edge on 01, I sharpen 16 dps, then facet 17 and 18 dps facets as Will describes. Then I strop the edges of the facets into a convex edge. This works well for me for putting a convex edge on 01. I have taken Andy's CPM 154 to 15 dps with no problems at all with rolling edges with my use. On knives that I use for EDC, I typically put a V edge on them and do not convex them. This is mainly due to ease and speed of sharpening and re-sharpening. I would also second Will's suggestion that the angle cube is required equipment.
 
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Thanks for the follow-up Walt; I tried sending that from my phone last night and in retrospect felt that quite a bit of my initial reply required follow-on explanation :thumbup:. I haven't taken any knives below 20dps, but would imagine that for certain applications it would do just great (esp. on 154)!
 
I just finished putting a 30° (total) edge on a Karda. It's pretty darn sharp!

Crappy pic-

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Hey Guys,
Just wanted to ask is there anything I should do different that hasn't been said here with a Blueback Fiddleback when sharping? I have a Blueback Asp that is still wicked sharp and don't want to mistreat the blue?

Thanks for your time.
 
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