How do you Sharpen your Fiddleback???

Just put the bevel flat on the strop (hard and with little give) and strop using little pressure. There is a very light convexing, but I don't mind that. All my Fiddlebacks are convex, but I have have plenty of scandis. Most scandis aren't totally flat and zero ground. And even fewer stay a flat zero;)
 
Well friends I got my Flexx Strops yesterday and WOW very nice work and VERY nice edges on my knives. I am getting the hang of it I think. I hope to post pics sometime.
 
So I thought I was getting it but I just can't seem to get an edge that I can shave hair off my arm with any tips? Shaving my arms is not the goal but a razor edge is just for the record =)
 
So thread revival: I cannot seem to get the hang of stropping! I need to figure out the proper angle. Please help I have tried a smaller angle I have tried a larger angle. I want to get a razor "hair popping edge on my 5/32 Alabama Damascus steel Hiking Buddy using the flexxx strops. Any suggestions?
 
Kepha,

Sometimes, I use a really low angle with downward pressure... you can see the leather on the strop compress and bend around to the edge of the blade. This seems to strop a wider section of the blade at a time. I have had great success like this, then finish with a slightly higher angle very lightly! Did that make any sense???

-Will
 
Yes makes sense does it polish the sides of the blade too and take off the patina?
 
depends... done properly, no. I've heard that rule of thumb is that you can slide a matchbook (wedge wise) in the space between the trailing edge and spine if that makes sense.
 
Don't forget the sharpie trick as well. Run a sharpie over the edge on both sides and then you can make sure you're hitting it right with the strop. Missing the edge, too shallow an angle. Only taking off a sliver at the edge, too sharp an angle.
 
With Andy's secondary bevels, I've had success making their angles a little shallower on water stones first, then went to stropping. I find it a decent compromise in that it bites and cuts better, but since still not as shallow as convex zero, pretty durable as well (not to say convex zero's aren't durable, but I'd need to spend much more time grinding the shoulders down and I'm lazy).
 
Best way I can think of to find the proper stropping angle...

Push the blade across the strops surface (opposite the normal stroke, edge leading like on a stone) at a very shallow angle. Slowly lift the spine just until the edge starts to bite into the leather as you push the blade forward. As soon as it starts to bite, stop, lower the spine a few degrees, then hold that angle and pull the blade back across the strop in a normal, edge trailing, stroke. Doing it this way, you'll soon get a feel for the proper angle without having to reset the angle every time.

It's easier than it sounds and you'll be a stropping nut once you get the feel for it. Stropping is more about feel for me than sight. You'll also be able to tell by sight, and even sound, but feel comes first.
 
REVIVAL!!!

Just wondering if someone can chime in an opinion. I am looking at the KSF Complete sharpening kit vs the BR double sided hone with compound. I see there are fans of both. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the hone in the KSF kit and let me know if you find it properly sized for home use? To small? Alternatively, if you have the BR and whether you wished you had the kit?
 
Hey Bartlax, just off the top of my head, I think the following are the things you should consider/ask yourself:
1. Will you be using the sandpaper that comes with the complete kit? Does the package as a whole serve your application well? (as in do you sharpen your knives often in the field).
2. The strop on the complete kit, I can't imagine it being longer than 5" and the other strop is 8" I believe. If you're looking to use this as your primary stropping kit at home, then my experience is longer the better (that's what she said). In all seriousness though, depending on the type of grind you have on the blade, I've found in my experience that having a longer strop makes a big difference in efficiency.
3. You can always get sandpaper from....well anywhere. Then again, you could also make your own strop at your specification, and just buy compound.

Josh
 
KephaC said:
So thread revival: I cannot seem to get the hang of stropping! I need to figure out the proper angle. Please help I have tried a smaller angle I have tried a larger angle. I want to get a razor "hair popping edge on my 5/32 Alabama Damascus steel Hiking Buddy using the flexxx strops. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...


Did you get this worked out?
 
I think something needs to be addressed regarding this and buying /selling. Every knife I have gotten directly from FBF will shave arm hair. Sometimes it "pulls" a little bit while doing so. If that is the case, stropping will bring it to a point where it will do it without pulling. What works for me in regards to sharpening and or stropping is this. If the knife will not cut paper it will not shave no matter how long you strop it. It needs to be sharpened on a stone or whatever you use. Sharpen it until it cuts paper well, then start stropping. You should use the same angle for sharpening you do for stropping. I can tell when my knives are getting where I like me on the strop because there is less resistance while guiding over the leather. The edge will start to shine like a mirror. It will then shave arm hair.
In regards to buying and selling, I have received a few knives from folks stating that they have never seen use. However the knives would not shave when I received and on some cases would not cut paper. Andy would never send a knife out that dull. If you've practiced stropping on a knife you are selling it is important to let the buyer know. Has I known that some of the knives I bought would not cut paper I might not have bought them for what I paid (new pricing). After receiving the dull knives, I've had to sharpen them, then disclose that I've sharpened them, then I take a hit when selling.
Also, polishing your knife will dull the edge if your not careful as well. I've received a very beautiful shiny knife that would not cut paper because the edge is as smooth as a baby's rear. When polishing, stay away from the edge.
In all these cases, it doesn't take much to bring them back. 01 responds well to sharpening, and usually just roughing the edge back up will bring them back. I've only had to reset the edge once. I just think that it is important to indicate the knifes' condition properly when selling. I know that nobody here is trying to deceive anyone, it is just a technicality on what new vs used means.
 
Hey Josh,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, these are some of the things I have indeed asked myself and you stating it at least makes me feel better that I am thinking about it correctly. I guess I should have added asking whether that is special, all-purpose, all-awesome sandpaper or if it is simply something I can pick up easily at an auto-body shop or home depot. Figured the latter and it seems you agree. For me, I was leaning toward the strop as this would be for at home application and was thinking the longer the better as well. For backpacking/out in the field, I think I would throw together an Altoids container, thought that was great.

This is 99% for my convex FB's.

Thanks for helping me clarify...good stuff.

Jared



catalystman80 said:
Hey Bartlax, just off the top of my head, I think the following are the things you should consider/ask yourself:
1. Will you be using the sandpaper that comes with the complete kit? Does the package as a whole serve your application well? (as in do you sharpen your knives often in the field).
2. The strop on the complete kit, I can't imagine it being longer than 5" and the other strop is 8" I believe. If you're looking to use this as your primary stropping kit at home, then my experience is longer the better (that's what she said). In all seriousness though, depending on the type of grind you have on the blade, I've found in my experience that having a longer strop makes a big difference in efficiency.
3. You can always get sandpaper from....well anywhere. Then again, you could also make your own strop at your specification, and just buy compound.

Josh
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top