How does the buck 110 compare to...

imafritz, i don't think i've been carrying the wrong knives. I just come from a family with not so much money so i've always taken extreme care of things i find expensive. My dad abuses everything he comes in contact with lol, so i learned early on how easily things can be broken and how much abuse they can take. If i can learn from someone elses mistake, ie. using a buck 110 around water will warp/swell the wood (an example, i have no facts to back that up) then i'd leave it home and just bring a crappy knife. Do you get what i'm saying? Like, my caly3 in zdp. I can't exactly replace that knife if i break or ruin it, so i use it the way it should and don't bring it around anything i think will screw it up. Now my JK knife can handle the fishy water and all that, but i want to leave it home and test the limits of my folders. I've never carried a folder for woods use. the 110 feels right in my hand, but as far as the wood & steels used, i don't know what they can take and what they can't. I know it's a proven design, but i've seen some messed up 110's and want to ask before doing. :-)

I get ya buddy and I know where you come from. I have a nice collection of 110's because they are attainable for reasonable money. The great thing is that it is a premium performing knife that you can do what you want to do with it and as long as you dont use it for a pry bar or sledge hammer, it'll take good care of you. Those mangled 110's I'm sure were used outside the realm of normal use and any blade would look the same(pardon my off the cuff assumptions). I know guys that use it to cut bailing wire. Not good for it but it works. The 420hc is simple to sharpen like flatlander said. I never let mine get too dull and just touch em up with croc sticks every so often.
 
Aren't the newer ones made with a stabilized laminate wood?

yes, it is the same construction as thier Dymondwood only natural wood color. The wood is obechee from Africa and is essentially plywood. Buck contends that is is more durable than solid wood inlays. I cant argue, my oldest 110 with this shows no real signs of wear or cracks but the bolsters are chipped, beat up and flattened from being dropped and used as a hammer:o---I said you shouldnt use it that way, never said I didnt.:p
 
Seems to be a lot of fretting over a $30 knife (Walmart price). Folks can talk until they are blue in the face about something, but there's nothing like getting one and trying it yourself.

There's just not much to dislike about the 110.
 
cheap fingernail clippers are even better.

Doc

They don't cut braided line :-). I used to carry a pair of fishing clippers, but all they do is smoosh superlines. Even with a sharp knife it's hard to cut the knots. They don't "pop" like monofiliment does.
 
The 110 is a classic. When it came out it revolutionized the folder. It has withstood the test of time. Nuff?
 
to stay on topic but ask a question, does anybody have experience with this sheath? http://www.rockfordoutfitters.com/servlet/the-15660/Leather-Holster,-holds-Minimag-fdsh-Knife/Detail . looks very useful for me.

I bought three of those a year or so ago. They are pretty handy when I'm out camping. One issue with the sheath is that it really isn't a good fit for a 110. The knife side is too wide and doesn't hold the knife securely. I don't mean that it will fall out or anything, just that it rattles around in there which is annoying. Even a Case Hammerhead which is wider than the 110 fits loose in it.

The belt loop isn't sewn to the sheath at the bottom, but has two snaps allowing you to put it on and take it off with out taking your belt loose to slid it through. The problem there was with two of the sheaths, the snaps wouldn't stay snapped and I ended up using epoxy to secure them. That ended the quick on and off feature.

Maglitesheathb.jpg
 
I think that the 110 is a great knife. The blade shape is useful and it is somewhat thin at the edge compared to some other factory folders. I think this is why it is easy to sharpen and cuts efficiently.
 
I really like the 110 as a design, but i don't know how well the steel is.
The standard 420HC is a an okay steel for everyday casual cutting.
The best thing going for it is that it is very rust resistant and it does not chip easily.
But it doesn't hold an edge for as much cutting as say S30V.
Fortunately, you can get the Buck 110 with different blade steels (S30V and CPM154, and if you shop on the Buck forums you might find one with BG-10 or ATS-34).

I need a knife i can grab with fishy nasty hands and not worry about ruining. It has to be able to sit in the sheath for up to 12 hours and me not worrying about rushing home or cleaning it on the spot.
No problem there except the odor that the sheath is likely to acquire. :barf:
Personally, when it comes to guts and blood and such, fixed-blades rule.
They just clean up easier and faster.

One word of warning:
The Buck 110 is a great knife, but it does have smooth scales and no fore-guard to prevent one's hand from sliding up on to the blade, especially if those hands were covered with slimy fish guts.

I whittle so wood may get inside it.
No problem there, just blow the shavings out and tap the spine a few times before closing the blade, just like you would any folding knife.

I do take very good care of my things. I find it a pain to bring a sharpening kit with me to sharpen the knife, so i'd like it to hold an edge well.
Well, I think that every camper or sportsman should carry a sharpener with them...but anyway....
As I said before, you can get the Buck 110 in better steels than the 420HC.
Like this Alaskan Guide Buck 110 (available from Cabela's).
It has S30V heat treated by Mr. Paul Bos....

knives220.jpg




Or this BassPro Shop Buck 110 with CPM154, also heat treated by Mr. Bos....

HPIM6757.jpg


HPIM6762.jpg




You can also get S30V from Buck's Custom Shop....

HPIM6779.jpg



I don't know the limits of a leather sheath either.
Actually, most of them come with a cheap nylon sheath these days.
And the custom shop Buck 110's can be had with either a leather sheath or a nylon Cordura sheath.
I prefer the cordura sheath because I can carry it horizontally.
And they dry faster than the leather sheaths.

Will the wood swell?
I've never had this happen.
But I suppose that if it were submerged for days and days on end...

I've had the 110 for YEARS and have yet to really use it hard because i like it so much.
If it has sentimental value then I wouldn't do anything with it that might damage it.
Otherwise, it's easy and cheap to replace.

I carry my JK custom in the woods, but if i could carry the 110 and keep the SAK and JK at home, that would be sweet. Or carry my vic camper and buck 110.
Always carry your Swiss Army Knife.
Always.
They're just too dang handy to not carry.
And they make much better whittling knives than a Buck 110.

But it really need to be able to hold up to use around the water. I won't ever submerge it (unless accidentally) but it will mostly cut string or something, sometimes with fishy or dirt covered hands.
Clean it occasionally, dry if off when you get a chance, and it will do just fine.

But beware, it can be a little slippery when wet.

HPIM6759.jpg


HPIM6760.jpg


Just an excuse to show my Indigo S30V nickle-silver 110. :)
 
Last edited:
Easiest thing to do is take your 110 and try it out. It's doubtful you'll do anything to it that can't be fixed by you or by Buck. If it doesn't meet your needs carry something else. Absolutely worse case senario you have to spend $30 for a new one. If you find it works but it's a little too slippery you can always get a Buck 110 with finger grooves.
 
Personally, I think the 420HC is fine, especially at the price! If you are going to get a 110 in an upgraded steel option, you might as well get a Spyderco because you will be looking at the same price range.
 
It was a landmark knife, ground breaking really. :)

I had 4 of them myself over the years.
 
There are a couple of guys doing knife test that put 420 HC with Buck's heat treat up against another companies Super Steel. The 420 HC held a better edge and made more cuts than even S30V, if that tells you anything. The 110 is a better knife than many of the "modern" folders being sold that cost many times the price.
 
This is in reply to a post of yours from a few years ago-

...I used a Buck 110 as a commercial lobsterman for several months and it saw prolonged expososure to sea water and fish brine with an extremely high salt content on a regular basis. The blade developed minimal corrosion spots that wiped away easily, and the wood handle scales are resin impregnated and did not suffer any ill effects. Again, this knife saw minimal maintenance. The Buck x-tract appears to be made of the same blade steel (420 HC) so I would not worry about it too much in a fresh water environment.

This is in reply to a post about the wood handle to the 110 I believe.

I used to take my 110 lobstering. It would have been a pain to reach into my oilskins and take the knife out of the sheath every time I needed to cut something so I used to just stab it into the top of the lobster tank (fiberglassed plywood) and leave it there. It sometimes fell into a puddle of brine from salted bait, bloody and very steel-unfriendly. Sometimes we would take a wave over the rail or over the top of the pilothouse, or we would take constant sea spray. Sometimes it was raining or sleeting or snowing. I used this knife for several months like this, and the only maintenance I did was sharpen it, and clean it with soap and water when it got fishy. There were no ill effects on the knife.


I had seen and handled 110's since I was a little kid, but it dawned on me that i'd never owned or really used one. I went out on halloween '05 and bought one at sport authority at the liberty tree mall for 30 bucks. It was too heavy to carry in my pocket, so I used the belt sheath. I planned to not carry this knife except on the boat (I'm a commercial fisherman), and that's what I have done for almost three months. When I first had it, we'd just gotten a good nor'easter and the gear was tangled, so I did a lot of rope cutting. The 420HC 110 (with the idaho stamp on the ricasso) cut as good as my vg-10 endura, and for the cutting we were doing, rope with no strain on it, the straight edge was much better than the serrated.

The 110 was also easily opened and closed one handed with gloves on, although eventually I simply left it on the lobster tank open. It got kind of scrimy after that first day, and I've only cleaned it once. I have been using that for the 'heavy duty' cutting duties from time to time as well, and it really did not get seriously dull.

I was impressed. sometimes newer hi-tech materials aren't always better.

Peter


Carrying a Buck 110 freshwater fishing isn't going to ruin the knife. If it hits a hook shank and you dull the blade I doubt it will chip the edge. More likely it will roll, 420 HC is a fairly tough steel. That can easily be fixed with a pocket hone or even stropping on your belt or the side of the leather sheath.

I don't carry mine due to the weight and the fact that I have to wear a belt sheath. Occasionally I don't even wear a belt. If a Buck Folding Hunter is all you can afford to carry you won't be under-knifed. :)
 
The 110 was my first folding sheath knife and I still have it. Yes it is a heavy sucker but on my 2" belt in 1975 didn't seem so!

What steel was the blade likely to be in the mid 70's?
 
my buddy swears by them (but knows nothing about knives)

This means he has experiance with 110's. Ask him pointed questions about his experiances. Trust him unless he's a complete idiot.

I have one that gets minimal use

Use your knife...its that simple!! Why all the silly questions????

I have a spyderco in zdp-189, a griptilian in 154cm, a bunch of SAK's, a blur and so on

If this is true you should know enough about what you like in a knife to judge YOUR 110 for yourself.

How do the 110's hold up to everyday use? Ever seen one chip? If it were to hit the shank of a hook, or if i were to whittle down dirty wood, or cut cardboard, tape and zip ties how would the steel hold up?

It'll last a lifetime with normal use ie cutting rope, tape, boxes, all those things you mentioned. Don't use as a chizel, hammer, screwdriver, prybar and you'll be fine.

Build quality on the knife for the price is amazing so i trust that much. I just have no experience with the steel.

Again use your knife

I do a lot of fishing so i'm constantly cutting my line and sometimes i have to get close to the eye of the hook or lure, and the edge may slide across the metal. I also like to whittle. Cleaning game may be another chore, but isn't really a big consideration. I like the size & feel

Super, use your knife it going to work great for ya!

Do any of you still get the urge to carry one?

You'll notice that my tone has shortened up with you. Reading thru this thread and your questions (especially this last one) has left me wondering exactly what your doing with this thread. Goofing about is my guess.
 
I carry my 112 ranger (basically a smaller 110) and have carried my 110 on the CT river for a while now. I haven't seen a speck of rust yet, but the brass has tarnished from time to time, and the leather sheaths don't hold up all that well to getting soaked often. Blade steel wise the 420hc is a great edc for working, it holds an edge for longer than it seems like it should, and sharpens up with a few passes on the tiny gatco ceramic I carry, that also sharpens my hooks.

I've never heard of a knife that more working men carry than the 110, so its definitely got the reputation going for it.
 
Back
Top