How does the buck 110 compare to...

• 
  Support BladeForums!
  Paid memberships don't see ads!

better than most modern folders in my opinion, if you can't handle the weight of the thing I think taking up weight lifting might be the solution I'd even dare to say it would hold up to more abuse than a sebenza :O

 

Well said!

 

It should outlast you if you don't abuse or lose it.

 

Had mine forever and havent hurt it yet. I use for everything, dont worry about water, just USE it, you wont be disappointed.

 

The OP has not come back to tell us if he actually picked up a 110 and if so how he feels about it.

tipoc

 

It is not always about money, Honey! As I have said here, I am, probably, last of this generation in my family (look at the world! How COULD anyone reproduce! Curse a soul to "this planet"!) and intend to keep my inventory small. For that, I need to absolutely sure about the knife that I am buying. The best-deal price difference between my two shortlisted ones is 2.5X and that does not matter.

However, to back on what I said, I am buying both. Will gift the Kershaw Blur S30V to some deserving friend, keeping the Buck 110 for my daily vanity.

 

this is an 8 year old thread.... did ya realize that?

 

The 110s made in the last couple decades mostly use a wood laminate for the scales (Dymondwood was the brand name at one time). This is great stuff that is very stable around moisture. I have a kitchen knife with a Dymondwood handle that has been in my wife's family for over 40 years. It has been hand washed and set out to air dry and never given any special treatment -- and it still looks like new.

My cousin is an avid hunter. His preferred blade for field dressing deer? A Buck 110. He swears by it and has no complaints about edge-holding.

As for me, I've recently added a 112 Ecolite (paperstone handle) to my EDC rotation. Edge retention and durability have been great in all-purpose use so far.

If these knives have a design flaw, as others have noted, it's the delicate tip. Should never be used for prying -- although plenty of people do anyway and then bitch and moan when the tip breaks.

 

Great bang for the Buck, one of the best knife deals around. Prefer my BassPro 110 in CPM-154 over 420HC, but both steels are easy to sharpen and take a razor edge. Another favorite is my Custom Shop 112 in S30V.

 

My only complaint with the Buck 110 and the clones is the weight relative to current knife offerings. In it's day (60's and 70's), it was king. A Schrade clone (2-blade 250T) was my hunting knife for years. Didn't even own a fixed blade and never really needed one. But since the knife "addiction" thing started, I have a number of fixed blades. But ya know, I still don't really need one for the most part. Basically nothing has changed since 2010 for me. I own two or three 110's now.

 

That's the thing about the Buck 110. It's a timeless classic.

 

what, ya'lls afraid of zombies rising from the dead?

The buck 110 IS a classic, no doubt. And the only ones I've seen with broken tips were used as screwdrivers, NOT the way to treat a tool designed to cut stuff. The Schrade LB-7 Bear Paw was(in its day) the best of the 110 clones. I've had several of each. The make a fixed blade version of the 110 now, in case a folder is just to fragile for you....

Oh, and there is also a version with an S30V blade, nickel silver bolsters, and G10 handle scales. For those who wouldn't be caught dead with a 420HC blade. And it's an an auto...

 

OK . . . old thread . . . couldn't resist answering original OP anyway. Then I will look at the most recent posts. Got to get into the spirit first.
These are old photos except the second one which I took today.

Yes; '81 was when I bought my first one (shown)

Are you kidding . . . it's a heavy duty, continuous use duty rated, truck !

Yeah that's were I start having a problem for my personal EDC use. Look at that kerf !
Bogs down in double wall corrugated boxes, the belly pops the blade up out of the cut. Awful box knife.
My favorite knives for what I do are along the lines of the one that shows zero kerf; third from left. That blade is a third the width of the 110. Maybe one day I will get another and grind it thin.


Good steel, good heat treat, all great considering the price !

WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE 110 is that wide back. See my two finger grip shown here on another knife. Also I go for a fairly narrow handle such as the knives shown; think Cold Steel Ti Lite as opposed to a Spyderco Manix.


Someone suggested if I like that why not just carry a SAK? True but not quite what I meant.


Why do I like the wide back ?
In this photo is my Brad Zinker Urban Trapper with no scales. See how tippy something like that would be . . . it just wants to flip sideways and lay flat between your fingers. (I fixed all that with some wider scales. See knife next to 110 in the second photo above).


The Case Trapper shown below, especially with the genuine stag handle, is really starting to get wide enough and the Ti Lite is even better (fatter and longer handle).


So that's what I really like about the 110 when compared to modern slab sided folding knives; handle shape. See second photo first knife on left which is a 940-1. Obviously a great knife but the handle could be fatter for my preferences even if I have to carry it in a pouch which I do with the other knives shown.

 

We're on the same page.

 

It compares to nothing. It's a class of its own. A fantastic knife that opened and expanded horizons in the knife universe.

 

I started up a new 110 thread today so figured why not jump in here ?
What can I say except :
BUMP

 

It's all good. Be even better if some of the guys from 8 yrs ago were still checkin out the forum and updated their opinions...

 

• 
  Support BladeForums!
  Paid memberships don't see ads!

Cut with the knife at a 45º across the cardboard, instead of the 90º shown, and your wedging problem is solved.
The blade will push the 2 halves apart. Be careful the first few times because the cuts are way easier
;D