How does the buck 110 compare to...

Take a look at the 110 with paperstone handles. I does not look as nice, but it lists at 4.1 oz. It may or may not be your cup of tea, I just thought I would throw that out there.
 
Bought one of the early Rangers about 1976. Chose the Micarta handle which shows almost no wear. I have carried this knife all around the Rockies and on a two month driving and camping trip to Alaska from Colorado and back. I carried and used it while cutting trees all one winter, fishing, hunting, backpacking... Now it needs a new blade because sharpening over the years has worn it down seriously. It is going back to Buck for that. I hope to get a new blade without the fingernail nick - I think that is ok on a pocket knife but not the 112. I like this knife so much that one point I made my own full-grain leather sheath to exactly fit the knife.

I soaked a piece of leather then nailed one side to a flat stump. I folded the wet leather over the knife and cut the top contour on the front side only so that about 20% of the handle end protruded above the outside of the sheath, enough for a good grip with the thumb and index finger to draw the knife. I then smoothed the leather over the knife with a smooth rounded-ended stick to make the leather conform exactly to the knife's contours. Once that was done, I nailed the sheath closed so that it would hold the knife tightly until the leather dried, spacing the nails evenly down the side and around the knife. These nail holes would later provide starter holes for the brass brads I later hammered together to finish the sheath.

Aftere all was dry, I trimmed the edges of the sheath just outboard of the line of brads, cut slots for a belt "loop", oiled the leather liberally and presto, a custom sheath. By accident, the sheath will hold the knife so that you can not shake the knife loose no matter how hard you try. But, it can easily be drawn with the thumb and index finger. This is because, due to the design of the blade mechanism, if you pinch the blade release on the rear top of the handle spine, the blade will drop down into the handles, being otherwise held up by the tension of the release spine. Pinching releases the tension on the blade which is holding the knife tightly in the sheath allowing it to be easily drawn. When the knife is inserted into the sheath, it kind of "pops" into place as the blade tension takes up the slack between blade spine and sheath wall.

I will post a photo later.

So, bottom line, the 110 and 112 are solid, time tested and very functional lock backs that are superior to many of the expensive and costly designs of today. And, they feel solid to hand. Nothing you would want to carry in your pocket but something you would want on your belt or in your pack most otter times.
 
Buck got it right with the 110, after nearly 50 years you still can't beat it for a good basic knife. No, it is not a super cool tatical, it is heavy but I would not turn one down if the SHTF.

Still a great knife and probably will be for another 50 years.
 
Buck has sold over 10 million of these knives since it was introduced. It continues to sell. It is offered in a wide variety of scale materials (a few by Buck and many more aftermarket). Steels have been discussed. It has probably been used on the job by more working folk than any other single brand or type of knife. It continues to be popular because they work.

Get one and answer the questions for yourself.

In the amount of time it takes to read through this thread and ponder it a fella could have driven 20 miles to a store and bought one off the self, come back and been slicing things with it.

Go buy one and come back and tell us about it.

tipoc
 
It is a timeless classic and it functions perfectly well.

When I was helping pick a knife out for my friend, we discussed modern knives, traditional knives, and different kinds of materials. He wanted a good knife to take outdoors. We hiked to a spot where he could try some of my knives out, and the buck 110 was an instant hit with him (even among other high end knives -of which he did not know the pricing).

It is just a pleasure to use, especially in the outdoors.
 
allenC said:
knives220.jpg
Click to expand...

This is the one!! You need to get it!!
 
The only fault I can find, and its minor, is it can be a bit slippery when wet. If the handles were a tad rougher that would help.
 
Here is a 110 hard at work. I have been useing the knife in that photo as my main EDC for the last 6 years know. You should get one and try it out for yourself, you will love that old school knife.
003_25A.jpg

jb4570
 
I don't have a 110 yet but I got a 112 with finger groves. It's probably one of the most conforable knives I got. The groves by the front and rear bolsters kinda act as a choil incase your hands are wet. After a little practice you can open and close it with one hand. Love it :D
 
I hold several Buck 110's in few flavors. The ones that using brass bolster is heavy, but recently I handled a G-10 handle and BG-42 with NS bolster. It screams to use and not quiet that heavy.
 
I have a couple of 110T's with the titanium handle and finger grooves. Light, not slippery at all.

Another advantage of the 110 is the back lock. It leaves a completely clear and easily cleaned blade channel. Fancier locks have lots of small parts to collect gunk, the back lock does not.
 
The Ti finger-grooved handled/110 bladed Buck knife was the 560XLT. The 110T indicated the blade's origin - and year ('T' was 2003.). Neat knife - mine is not my favorite '110' - by a far margin (Tight pivot, dragging on Ti surface - it was expensive to make and not very popular - thus it's short life.).

You can find the basic 110 with finger grooves - 2010 Buck Catalog # 2538 MSRP $76. Of course, you could order a Buck Custom Shop 110 with S30V blade, nickel silver bolsters, stabilized wood scales with finger grooves, and a nylon sheath for <$100. You'd have it in time for Christmas, too.

No matter whether it's a <$30 WallyWorld regular production or a CS S30V bladed 110, it'll come with a long hollow ground edge - that is sharp to a fault. It is a great cutter/slicer - not so good as a chisel/wood splitter. Use it as a knife and you'll both be happy. Also - the brass may be a problem - it does tarnish. Great knives - my pocket 'hiker' for many years.

Stainz
 
I have Emersons, Spydercos, Benchmades, Cold Steel, Buck and Kershaw knives, to name a few. The last knives I would ever give up, are the Bucks. They are that good.
 
I can tell you what I have done in the field. Of course I have no air compressor handy. I will have some water and normally enough to wash hands with etc. I pour a bit of water on the knife and wipe down with a rag. If there is a bit of matter inside the handle I can usually get that out with the rag or a pick. This is enough for the field. Any flecks or residual blood tend to flake off as they dry.

Blood left to dry on the blade may stain the steel, particularly hogs blood I've found.

This is all minor routine maintenance and the 110 is no different from other folders in this regard.

Why have you not bought one yet Suzuki? This thread has been running almost a week.

tipoc
 
Flatlander1963 said:
...You'll notice that my tone has shortened up with you. Reading thru this thread and your questions (especially this last one) has left me wondering exactly what your doing with this thread. Goofing about is my guess.
Click to expand...

Heh, some people have to be sold twice, Flatlander. ;)

You and I both know that the 110 is one of the finest knives made, never mind one of the most comfortable to use, and use, and use. In fact, the 110 has a permanent place in my rotation and a cherished place in my collection.

To the OP, wear it, use it and tell us about your experience.
 
A.P.F. said:
Heh, some people have to be sold twice, Flatlander. ;)

You and I both know that the 110 is one of the finest knives made, never mind one of the most comfortable to use, and use, and use. In fact, the 110 has a permanent place in my rotation and a cherished place in my collection.

To the OP, wear it, use it and tell us about your experience.
Click to expand...

LOL, all very true!!
 
for urban edc i would go with a newer knife. they are lighter, more compact, easier to carry, and faster deploying. BUT the buck 110 is a serious working knife. it feels great in the hand, is comfortable for long hard work, and is extremely durable. all knives have trade off's. the buck 110 is bulky to carry, weighs a lot, and is slow to deploy but you get an awesome knife that is meant for serious work. the newer knives are lighter, more compact, easier to carry, and faster deploying but they will never be able to do what a buck 110 can do and still be comfortable while doing it.

imgres
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top