How to mill a guard slot .............

Best instruction I have ever seen on this topic. Thanks Karl.

Brian
 
Thanks Karl for that detailed how to. I saw you post this on tradgang without all the pics and I didn't quite follow it. Now with the pics I think I got it and I will try this method on the next guard I slot.
 
Yes, I did that a couple years ago.
Having done so many knives and guards this way, about the only thing I can say is that if you're not doing it this way - you're doing it wrong. :rolleyes:



madness522 said:
Thanks Karl for that detailed how to. I saw you post this on tradgang without all the pics and I didn't quite follow it. Now with the pics I think I got it and I will try this method on the next guard I slot.
Click to expand...
 
I think it was very good of you to post your technique. There are, of course, other ways to skin that cat. A machinist "type" might approach it a little differently by "going by the numbers" instead of scribe lines, and perhaps eliminate a couple steps. But your results speak for themselves. :thumbup:
 
Well nicely done Karl Im sure this will help alot of guys out. I know when I first started make knives this would have saved me alot of end mills and brass. But now after running a mill for some time I think I would approach it a little different. I guess I would be doing wrong tho. LOL

Brett
 
I agree. But a machinist "type" would probably be using a Bridgeport with a DRO, not a 500 dollar bench top mill.
This post is for knife makers.
It's simple.
Uses physical table stops to eliminate thinking and basic math.
Oh, and a hammer.
No CNC involved. :D


Nathan the Machinist said:
I think it was very good of you to post your technique. There are, of course, other ways to skin that cat. A machinist "type" might approach it a little differently by "going by the numbers" instead of scribe lines, and perhaps eliminate a couple steps. But your results speak for themselves. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
 
Karl I guess I missed that point. With the machine you did that with I don't think I could do it more simple and repeatable.
 
Karl - I'm also new to this(very new). Are you using a two-flute or a four-flute end mill?

My understanding is: two-flute is for plunge work and four-flute is more suited for milling/routing chores.

Thank you,

Peter
 
How do mills (im guessing this is the tool) get completely square 90 degree angle cuts in the metal?
Do they just do a rough "round" run and then after that use a super small bit to cut the edges?
 
Peter, I only use one end mill for all applications.
4 flute, center cutting, carbide.
I'm not really doing any "plunging".
Well, sort of. But only in little, tiny increments.
That's the beauty of the method. :D

Bigblue17 said:
Karl - I'm also new to this(very new). Are you using a two-flute or a four-flute end mill?

My understanding is: two-flute is for plunge work and four-flute is more suited for milling/routing chores.

Thank you,

Peter
Click to expand...
 
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Nice thread Karl, those are great photos to go along with the description of your process. :) This should get a whole lot of guys started that would otherwise avoid trying a hidden tang guard. :)

What is the reason for milling the slot in progressive steps?

Thanks Karl :)
 
NickWheeler said:
Nice thread Karl, those are great photos to go along with the description of your process. :) This should get a whole lot of guys started that would otherwise avoid trying a hidden tang guard. :)

What is the reason for milling the slot in progressive steps?

Thanks Karl :)
Click to expand...

With a small benchtop mill like that (or really, with most any mill out there) you would have a rough time taking the whole cut in one pass-- the likelyhood of a broken cutter would be high.
 
I'm not talking about cutting full depth in one pass. He made his cuts by plunge cutting a little and traveling in the X-axis a little, and then did that progressively across the slot. I've never seen it done that way, so I'm curious what the reason behind it is. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
I'm not talking about cutting full depth in one pass. He made his cuts by plunge cutting a little and traveling in the X-axis a little, and then did that progressively across the slot. I've never seen it done that way, so I'm curious what the reason behind it is. :)
Click to expand...

Ah-- I'll try to rationalize it, we'll see if i'm right or not though.

If he took the passes clear to the other end, he'd eventually end up taking a deeper depth pass (when he runs into the previous depth pass, or the end of the slot) The way he did it, it avoids this altogether, and the material will be cleared when he repeats from the other side.

But i'm just pissing in the wind at this point.
 
I may never own a milling machine, and I do pretty good with a drill press and a file, BUT...

the advice about real speed coming from doing things right the first time is pure gold! Thank you!

I tend to get impatient, and it always, ALWAYS costs me more time in the end.

I have long known the saying "I'm too poor to buy cheap." I think Karl just helped me come up with another good one: "I don't have enough time to rush this.":)
 
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