How to sharpen a Hinderer

avatar282297_9gif.jpgCrimsonTideShooter, I don't mean to pry but I'm curious if it was knife related so I'm wondering what happened to you eye?:D

One thing I regret was not getting the granite or quartz base because I found that when doing serious reprofiling I move the paperstone base a lot.
 
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Here at last here at last. It came in Sat. Would have taken pictures sooner (I am sure everyone was waiting) but I was busy setting up and playing with edges. Learned a lot and read and re-read many posts. Thanks for everyone's input. Rubi you have been a great help with the wicked edge thanks for everything (put several mouse traps around my gun room, just in case yours was not a isolated case. Also put a picture of my new powder coated Ti scales for my xm-18 3".

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Congrats you're all ready to go! Make sure you start out with some knives that you don't care about to get the hang of it before you throw a rare damascus piece in there and mess it up.
 
BARBARIAN-X said:
Congrats you're all ready to go! Make sure you start out with some knives that you don't care about to get the hang of it before you throw a rare damascus piece in there and mess it up.
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Thanks for the advice and so far I have followed it. Keeping finding knives I did not know I had in my tool box. Did do a couple of the wife's french knives and they came out great....wow do they cut. Going down to 3.5 on the strops and still looking for the mirror finish. Maybe I just need to strop longer and go finer not sure.
 
Outstanding BH, Nice looking setup.
If a mirror edge is a goal (they are cool looking) couple things....
- At the end of each step straighten your scratches perpendicular to the bevel. Your stroke has probably put the scratches at a roughly 45* forward slant so straighten them upward very light stroke.
- Then next step, remove the previous steps scratches. You'll know because remember you straightened them, now you will get 45* forward again. Repeat.
- Each step is removing (or minimizing) the previous step thus refining the edge.
- At 1000 grit and beyond you will start seeing the shine and keep the pattern (Forward- Up- Remove)
- The tightness of grit interval is important to developing the mirror finish. Get thee to the Automotive Store for some wet/dry sandpaper 1500/2000/2500.
- Use a paddle as a template and cut strips as wide as the paddle surface and about an inch short (1/2" each end will give you room to affix via 1" wide Blue painters tape.
- Use the Wet/Dry as the in between steps to your 1000/1200/1600 steps before the strops.
- With the strops, I keep mine in the bags they came in stored in my tupperware tower. Keep them clean and wipe the blade between steps to keep everything clean as possible.
As for the diamond paste less is best, spread it and it will last a long time.

These steps and practice will get you where you want to be then you be the judge. I don't mirror my XM's but have done some of my FFG blades just for fun and was part of the "whittle a hair" experiment.
 
rubiconss said:
.Keep them clean and wipe the blade between steps to keep everything clean as possible.
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Be extra careful here because this is when I usually cut myself. You will be surprised at this stage what the knife is capable of cutting through to take a bite out of you!
 
If you look at the Wicked Edge Grit Comparison Chart I would argue that your 5 & 3.5 micron pastes are going to do very little beyond your 1600 2.8 micron ceramic stone to achieve a mirror finish.
http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=74:grits-comparison-chart-for-the-wicked-edge-sharpener&catid=31:general&Itemid=46
You would be better off with the 1 & .5 micron diamond pastes or the 1 & .3 micron 3M lapping films. You could also go with the finest Chosera & Shapton stones but they ain't cheap.
Another thing to remember is that initially your diamond stones are going to scratch much deeper until they are broken in which makes it harder to get that mirror polish until this happens. I like Rubi's idea to use Wet/Dry 1500/2000/2500 in between steps to your 1000/1200/1600 stones. The whole trick to getting a mirror polish is removing the scratches from the previous grit. If you advance to the next grit to quickly and don't completely remove the previous grits scratches your results will be less than optimal. Obviously if you have trouble seeing the scratch marks magnification is required but another useful tip is to hit it with a flashlight. Take a knife that you thing has a mirror finish and hit it with a high luminance flashlight and I but you will be surprised at what you see...scratches!
 
That robot looking thing in my Pics comes in handy. It's a magnifying/Light combo was only like $27.00 online.
It is like 10x which works for me in assessing the edge, not at a moleculer level obviously but Mirror finish is what the naked eye picks up so 10x is plenty for me.
Yes, the wet/dry steps added made a big difference. There are probably other grits available but the ones I mentioned were readily available and cheap (like $2.00)

Wonder how CTS is doing with his??
 
I just did my weekly touch-up on a DMT x-fine benchstone and finished with a bout 1/2 dozen passes on the Spyderco UF benchstone. I feel a hint of burr here & there which will polish like a razor on a 1 micron diamond sprayed strop. It slices copy paper from end to end already w/o a snag.

Time invested 10 minutes :thumbup:
 
Yes. Touch-ups are a joy. Turn on the TV, crack a Beer and pretend it takes longer than it does.

It's a time of PEACE
 
Thanks everyone! I have some 1000/2000 wet dry already that I will give a try. I do not yet have the 1200/1600 ceramic stone yet, they are on order. Barbarian-X you mentioned the lapping tapes, have you used them? So much to learn and so fun learning. Thanks again for all the help.

Bill
 
rubiconss said:
That robot looking thing in my Pics comes in handy. It's a magnifying/Light combo was only like $27.00 online.
It is like 10x which works for me in assessing the edge, not at a moleculer level obviously but Mirror finish is what the naked eye picks up so 10x is plenty for me.
Yes, the wet/dry steps added made a big difference. There are probably other grits available but the ones I mentioned were readily available and cheap (like $2.00)

Wonder how CTS is doing with his??
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Absolutely could NOT figure out how to get a sharp edge with this machine, and that's strange since I it's easy for me to sharpen using pretty much ANY other method. I did a little update video last night explaining why we think I'm having trouble.

[video=youtube;MOGb9WOsIO4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOGb9WOsIO4[/video]
 
Fascinating, absolutely fascinating on so many levels especially having watched this unfold from inception.
So many parts of this speak to positives rare these days; communication, a Forum (community) doing what community should do - support a member in solving a problem, character and quality .... wow.
Great to hear back from you CTS and hears to seeing this through to a successful conclusion:thumbup:
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Absolutely could NOT figure out how to get a sharp edge with this machine, and that's strange since I it's easy for me to sharpen using pretty much ANY other method. I did a little update video last night explaining why we think I'm having trouble.
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Looking forward to the update, I am skeptical that your problem is isolated to those bottom hinges.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
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Absolutely could NOT figure out how to get a sharp edge with this machine, and that's strange since I it's easy for me to sharpen using pretty much ANY other method. I did a little update video last night explaining why we think I'm having trouble.
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My best guess is your problem is directly related to your ocular injury which has resulted in a lack of depth perception. I would also summarize that you would be a sucker for a left. :D
I'm sorry no one laughed at my joke at the top of the page and I'm like a dog with a bone...I'll go look at your video now.
BTW it was also a stall tactic while North America's most expensive/slowest ISP loads the video. $180 per month for 2Mbps...POW!
 
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I just check my arms and they appear to have as much play as yours but I still get wicked edges. I should also mention that I too have the modified arms on order since last week but I only did so because I'm very anal about that stuff not because I needed them. I'm very interested to hear what your results are like when you get the modded arms. BTW happy B-day and go nutz on you bachelor party brother!:very_drunk:
 
I also checked my arms and they have some play. But before this I put a angle cube on my arms and found out that the left side was about 2 degrees off from the right (20/18). I call Wicked Edge and talked to Kay. She said this was unacceptable and would get a new vice out to me right away (I just love a company that really takes pride in their product and stands behind it). Kay said .25 degree was what they looked for. She said they had some trouble with the vice and thought they had replaced all that were not up to spec. Even thought I got a good edge on the knives I have done I am looking forward to the new vice. That one call will keep me with Wicked Edge for ever! They are great people, with a great product and most of all a "We have your back" attitude. I have gotten the same with Chris Reeve and I am sure if I ever have to call Hinderer Knives I would get the same.
 
he WE is a very cool looking device. I've seen some beautiful edges in pics around the forum. Not trying t stir anything up but isn't it pretty darn expensive and leads you into buying lots of extras to really have all you need to get a mirror edge like an edgepro?

I've seen that there's lots of upgraded finer stones available - are they necessary or is the basic unit all you'd need - cuz it is kinda pricey?

What about modded arms? That's one I just heard of today. What's wrong with the ones that it comes with?

Again, I was very interested in buying one of these but the basic sharpener is pricey for me and I still remain interested. :)
 
I can not comment on the edge pro because I don't have one and those comparisons don't go anywhere productive anyway so discussing the WEPS specifically I will say this.
Pricey is a subjective issue. Good Tools (in my experience) are somewhat expensive for many reasons.
Precision, machining, R&D, Support after the sale, Quality of materials, longevity, etc ALL cost $$$
The WEPS (I have said before) is not just a great sharpening medium it IS a Hobby in and of itself - Hobbies are pricey.
Yes, there are many options that are available, are they necessary? Not really.
The guy that can hand sharpen to a razor edge on an Arkansas stone has the cost of the stone and some free spit to contend with, I just was never able to get where I wanted to be.
Richard and his paper wheels gets there too, I just can't bring myself to put one of my prized knives up against a spinning machine able to eat the blade within seconds if I make a mistake.
I have said before, Is the WEPS the cheapest or fastest way to go? No.
But the list of attributes IMO is quite lengthy.
It is a very precise, very repeatable way to sharpen and keep sharp your knives and I expect it to perform that way for years.
That is a good deal IMO based on many years of trying to find shortcuts and failing.
 
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