How tough is infi?

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shinyedges said:
The frickin toughest steel I've ever used. My busse sob saved my bacon or at least a crap load of time, after dropping a large maple in the woods I began sectioning it for splitting. Here in northern mi the snow is deep in the woods, the tree fell and was resting on a stump under the snow causing my chainsaw bar to become pinched. I do have a spare bar and chain but my spare chain got damaged a few months ago. Anyway out comes my trusty sob, I batonned it between the two logs where my bar was pinched and using all my body weight wrenched and pryed until I could wiggle my bar free.

I was blown away how tough this knife is, it did get bent in the process but holy crap if this isn't a testament to infi I don't know what is. I weigh about 185 and literally was using ALL my weight to free the chainsaw bar. Any other knife would have snapped in 2.

This is definitely abuse, I will be picking up another chain for my back up bar so this won't be happening again. Busse freaking rocks and infi is not a gimmick.

Hopefully I don't get piled on for using my knife this way, but believe me being alone in the woods with a chainsaw pinched you start thinking of all options.

Hopefully busse will warranty my knife, I have a new found trust in her for sure. THANK YOU BUSSE.
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Get some wedges and drive them in behind where you got your chainsaw bar stuck with a mallet. Poor knife, If it isn't covered under warranty, any plans to fix it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141493204550?lpid=82&chn=ps
 
It bent rather than snap that's what it is designed to do, when a grown man is using all his body weight to pry with his knife and it DOESNT break that's a tough knife. Unless the grown man weighs 100 pounds soaking wet lol all kidding aside the sob did amazing for what I used it for.
dingy said:
why there was a permanent bending ? what is the maximum angle it get ? do you think the knife flexible enough?
sorry for too many Qs here .:D
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I already called busse , and sent her in. Busse has the BEST warranty in the business. As for the wedges I have a few but while bucking up the logs they are usually unnecessary unless there is some object under the snow that causes the bar to pinch in which case its a surprise.
Zemapeli said:
Get some wedges and drive them in behind where you got your chainsaw bar stuck with a mallet. Poor knife, If it isn't covered under warranty, any plans to fix it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141493204550?lpid=82&chn=ps
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Makes me feel Great about just buying SOB recently.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
I bet after the nice folks at Busse replace your blade, that one goes up on the wall of the shop! :thumbup:
 
dingy said:
hi, op , do you have any exprience on abusing other knives before , how do you get it tough or not tough ?

i really want to know that how other knives & steels will react when treated like that , thank you for sharing man.
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I have and I don’t really want to give my full opinion on the subject to be honest. I know people really like the knives and I’m trying to be to harsh when talking about them. But I have pride with the a1 and s1 pro. As well as some becker bk knives. It all has to do with the metallurgy of the steel along with the hrc busse knives chooses
 
Sour27 said:
I have and I don’t really want to give my full opinion on the subject to be honest. I know people really like the knives and I’m trying to be to harsh when talking about them. But I have pride with the a1 and s1 pro. As well as some becker bk knives. It all has to do with the metallurgy of the steel along with the hrc busse knives chooses
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Busse rockwell is ran harder than becker. I guess I provoked this necropost by posting the link, sorry..
 
That goes back to the original question I had. do you think busse knives sacrifices to much in the way or making a tuff knife. And I think the answer to the would be to most people yes they do. But to some people they don’t. I think it all depends on how you think a knife should be used. Most any well made knife anymore will baton wood with no problems. Most of them you can do light to medium prying with. And most of them don’t sacrifice all that much cutting ability to get that performance. bark river fallkniven would be really good examples of that. They will give you better geometry, with better edge retention. Now if your really doing something hard enough to brake a fallkniven or bark river. Sure use a busse knife. But I think bark river is stonger then busse knives. A bark river in 3v with a convex grind. Man that’s an extremely tuff knife. And bark river knows that. That’s why bark river has the warranty behind them as well.
 
If you guys think I’m wrong about the I’d love to hear it. And sr101 steel is 52100 I believe. I haven’t looked up the make up of the steel in a long time. But if I’m correct 52100 is an extremely tuff steel.
 
Sour27 said:
That goes back to the original question I had. do you think busse knives sacrifices to much in the way or making a tuff knife. And I think the answer to the would be to most people yes they do. But to some people they don’t. I think it all depends on how you think a knife should be used. Most any well made knife anymore will baton wood with no problems. Most of them you can do light to medium prying with. And most of them don’t sacrifice all that much cutting ability to get that performance. bark river fallkniven would be really good examples of that. They will give you better geometry, with better edge retention. Now if your really doing something hard enough to brake a fallkniven or bark river. Sure use a busse knife. But I think bark river is stonger then busse knives. A bark river in 3v with a convex grind. Man that’s an extremely tuff knife. And bark river knows that. That’s why bark river has the warranty behind them as well.
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Did you say bark river knives are tougher than busse?!?!?

Man, hell no. That isn't even worth addressing.
 
I think
shinyedges said:
Did you say bark river knives are tougher than busse?!?!?

Man, hell no. That isn't even worth addressing.
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id be willing to best If you took a bark river in A2 vs swamp rat with its sr101/ 52100. And stuck them mid way into a tree the swamp rat would go first. Now that’s just speculation but a2 and 52100 are very comparable in toughness. But u add all the extra material the convex allows. With better gerontology for most any task. And I think you’ll see that bar river pull ahead really quickly.
 
Sour27 said:
Really? Why do u say that?
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Mike stewart doesn't specialize in one steel. Although he probably does A2 better than other steels as he's used that one for very long time.

Bark river cranks out quantity over quality. They send out knives in the wrong steel.
They aren't the master of any steel, much less a proprietary alloy they spent a boat load of time testing and developing AND the heat treat protocol to go with it.

Do dome research and you'll find out what many of us who have been here for years already know. Infi isn't the best at any one thing, but does all things very well.

Certain bark river models may take a beating but I'd wager anything a comparable model from busse would take a HELL of a lot more.
 
As to A2 vs 52100 as done by swamp rat.. I'll give sr101 the nod.

I've chopped bone with both A2 and sr101 and sr101 held up better.

The irony is the A2 I used was manufactured by bark river AND thicker behind the edge.
 
shinyedges said:
Mike stewart doesn't specialize in one steel. Although he probably does A2 better than other steels as he's used that one for very long time.

Bark river cranks out quantity over quality. They send out knives in the wrong steel.
They aren't the master of any steel, much less a proprietary alloy they spent a boat load of time testing and developing AND the heat treat protocol to go with it.

Do dome research and you'll find out what many of us who have been here for years already know. Infi isn't the best at any one thing, but does all things very well.

Certain bark river models may take a beating but I'd wager anything a comparable model from busse would take a HELL of a lot more.
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I know exactly what your talking about. But bark river knives have been tested more then swap rat knives. And he does a very respectable heat treat on his knives. Busse my be the master of 52100 but I think/ know they run the steel softer for beint tuff. That’s why your knife bent and didn’t snap.
 
Sour27 said:
I know exactly what your talking about. But bark river knives have been tested more then swap rat knives. And he does a very respectable heat treat on his knives. Busse my be the master of 52100 but I think/ know they run the steel softer for beint tuff. That’s why your knife bent and didn’t snap.
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The knife that bent was infi. Not sr101.

And you are dead wrong on bark rivers tested more than swamp rat.

Chop a car in half with you bark river and get back to me. You should read more and educate yourself because right now you look foolish. You don't know enough about what your talking about, I'm not trying to be mean, that's the truth.
 
shinyedges said:
As to A2 vs 52100 as done by swamp rat.. I'll give sr101 the nod.

I've chopped bone with both A2 and sr101 and sr101 held up better.

The irony is the A2 I used was manufactured by bark river AND thicker behind the edge.
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If it was thicker behind the edge. The best bart of a convex is you can zero grind it really easy and change that geometry to whatever suits you. You could’ve made that bark river 20 inclusive if you wanted to. If you tried that with a swamp rat your edge bevel would be a half inch of the blade. Convex is easer to maintain over a saber grind once you understand them. They allow you to determine the edge geometry much better without it always thickening.
 
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