Hows this look.

JTknives

JTknives

Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
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well after spending the morning trying to design a knife for some of don hansons mammouth ivory. this is what i came up with. im in love.

JTDP.jpg


do you see any major flaws. there will be thin layer of coper sheet under the ivory. the blades tang is going to be a stick tang so gard, copper and watter buffalow horn can slip on. then it will slip into the handle tang made from wrought iron. then the copper spacer sheet then the ivory. what you think. thanks
 
Looks good. The one suggestion I'd make would be to maybe drop the handle a little bit. I always find that a little drop is a bit more comfortable in the hand. That's just me though.

-d
 
I like it. I posted pics of the chopper earlier and have been getting good feedback on it. Looks like you measured everything out. Even spaced holes. I just drew mine like a caveman!
 
Looks good but I have to agree with Deker,I wopuld ad some curve to it,Straight lines just dont have a pleasing look to the eye or a nice feel in the hand.But that is just me.
Bruce
 
Third for the drop curve. Blade is a little short in proportion to the handle for my taste too. Great looking design though!
 
ya good ideas. the handle material is 1 1/8" wide and 3 1/2" long. so i will see what kind of curve i can get from it. ya it could use a longer blade sence i added the finger cut out on the blade side. 2 pins or 3?
 
I agree, it needs a bit of a curve to it. It doesn't take much, but a little curve would make it look and fit the hand a lot better. I'd also move the pins and either put two or space the three out a bit more evenly.
 
I often go for a bit of a curve but I also like the way you have drawn the handle. If your going to use high end materials. I would sujest you decide how
thick the handle is going to be and Make one from a block of pine or other soft wood and make a curved one see how it fits to your hand and how you like the feel of it. Also if your material width is going to be an issue you may be able to put a bolster at the wide back end.

Ask 100 makers they will all have an idea. I think it looks fine like it is. I could also make a dozen suggested ideas. The trick is to keep asking. Also ask why if the ideas you get are different.

The previous makers have said why it would be better in their opinion and I beleive that is a good way to answer. Not just what to do. If you have not had a look yet take a look at Bruce EVANS tutorials. I like his vine pattern.
 
JT, Did you check out the 2 tutorials I posted on your other thread.I believe if you will study those along with mine you can make this knife into a awesome one either way curved or not (your design,if you like it MAKE IT!) But Jerry's tutorials show him using Ivory and just 2 pins...
What ever you decide have fun making this knife and learning a new technique.
Bruce
 
If the water buffalo horn isn't stabilized it will likely shift/shrink/expand after it's in place and you may end up with a gap in the spacers or a few "bumps" when you run your finger along it. This can happen months or years down the road. I think that's why we mostly see the horn used at one end or another.

If your handle materials are too small to add a curve, consider using some sort of cap or bolster on the butt to open up your options.
 
hows this :). looks good to me. im talking about the bottom drawing.
you wanted curves you got it

JTDP1.jpg
 
JT,You can have it stabilized professionally or hunt the search engine as allot has been posted on doing home stabilizing.I personally stabilze with thinned down polyurethane and a vaccum chamber....Yes the Ivory is helped out by being stabilized also.

Rememeber one thing when stabilizing,let the piece cure all the way through,if yuo stabilize it then use it real quick and the inside isnt cured you will still end up with some shrinkage.

Bruce
 
Second looks great but I think you still need to move the front pin forward, leave the back as is, and then re-center your middle pin.
Just my opinion tho,
Matt
 
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