HT oven build

JeridJohnson

JeridJohnson

Joined
Jun 30, 2004
Messages
376
Thought I'd share the build details while I work through this project.

Checking out the K-23 insulating soft fire brick.
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Top and bottom bricks with interlocking joints. Used a tile saw.
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Assembled
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Door bricks fabricated.
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Bottom tray fabricated. Using 16 gauge steel.
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Next up will be welding on uprights for the corners and welding in the sheet steel for the sides and back.

Cheers,
Jerid
 
Very cool Jerid. I'm thinking about building one myself. Are you working off a plan somewhere?
Parts list?
Cost?

Good luck on your build. Looking forward to more pictures.
 
Not following any specific plan aside from the one I put together. Inside chamber dimensions are the same as the paragon km 24d. Electronics will be similar to what others have used. I'll post parts list as I go along with prices.
 
Sure coming along, Jerid. I will save this for one of my friends who can do the welding necessary. He is anxious to have one.
Thanks for this. Frank
 
Lesson learned #1.. The interlocking joint thing is a bunch of extra work that over complicates things and probably doesn't add much if any value. If I did it over I would simply get some sairset mortar and join the bricks together. I will be using sairset on the bottom and sides when I do final assembly. I will also mortar the top bricks into a single slab but not stick it to the sides. I want the top to be removable in the event I need to service the element.
 
Be careful with mortar. As it dries it will peel off the bricks. I've heard of people soaking the bricks in water before you mortar them but haven't tried it. Of all the production ovens I've seen. Which isn't a lot, none have mortar. Also, as time goes on you may need to replace one here or there. No mortar allows you to do this. The only ones I interlocked was the top. I did this to keep the side bricks from falling inward. I also staggered mine so that no joints lined up. Anyway, your build is looking good. I can't wait to see the finished product.
 
As I understand it the sairset mortar is for joints of 1/8" or less.

Tonights progress. Got the lid fabricated.

Ordered most of the electronic components today as well.

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Jerid,
That is a really well thought out build. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

Suggestions:
Make the controller unit completely separate and mount under the cart or benchtop that the oven is on. Put a oven/dryer socket on the back of the controller box. Use a matching heavy duty power cord to connect the coils to the control unit. Use a TC plug and proper TC wiring to connect the TC to the control box. A computer cooling fan in/on the controller box to cool the PID, SSR, and heat sink is a really good idea.

Before building the door hardware, decide what style will work best for you. Side opening is simple and convenient, but many like flip down or lift up styles. Look at some commercial kilns and see what appeals to you.

Put a door interlock switch in the low voltage line from the PID to the SSR. Tis will automatically de-energize the coils when the door is opened. This is safer and will give longer coil life.

If you haven't got them yet, order a quality pair of gauntlet length kiln gloves and 16-18" pick-up tongs. You don't want anything below the elbow exposed ... trust me. They will also be on your hands to straighten a warped blade right out of the quench.
 
Thanks Stacy.

I had initially planned on a side hinged door but am starting to think about a fold down paragon style door. I like the idea of not worrying about a latch.

Was planning on a door switch.

Planning on using heat syncs on the ssr's.. SSR's inside vented box with heat syncs outside the box. No fan.

I like your idea of the cords/sockets.. plug and play :-)

I purchased the TC from Auber and it looks like it comes the ceramic terminal block and TC wire. Not sure if there is another plug you are referring to?
 
It is "Heat Sink", not sync. The "sink" ( reservoir) is a thermal mass that transfers and then disposes of the heat. The fins are called radiators, and remove the heat from the sink.

The TC plug and socket is a flat bladed polarized set that goes on the end of the TC wire at the controller. You can get the female as a cabinet mount.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...S0&_nkw=thermocouple+plug+and+socket&_sacat=0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Mini-...ega-Sockets-/251802624747?hash=item3aa09b22eb
 
Managed to make some more progress on this project today.

Got the bricks fit nice and snug in the body. Rubbed them on the concrete until they fit in perfectly.

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Worked up the door frame. Top of the frame will be removable.

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Fit the door brick into the body.

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Welded on the hinges.

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Door closes nicely.

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Next I need to sort out the latch.

Cheers,
Jerid
 
Very nice build! I built mine and as much of a pain as it was at times, was well worth it, and kind of fun.... cant wait to see the finished project.
 
Very nice. One thing worth mentioning, air at high temperatures doesn't really convect, so having a gap at the door isn't a big deal.
 
zhyla said:
Very nice. One thing worth mentioning, air at high temperatures doesn't really convect, so having a gap at the door isn't a big deal.
Click to expand...

I can't say I ever heard of this advice for a HT oven ( or any oven). What is the source of this recommendation?

In my understanding, the heating in a HT oven is radiant from both the elements and the refractory.
 
Mounted the fixed side of the door latch. This will be trimmed and notched to mate with the half that mounts to the door. I made it adjustable to control how tight it shuts.

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Very nice Jerid, it looks VERY similar to the way I built my oven. I would still think about adding the gasket around your door...
Great job
 
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