HT Techniques and Procedures

Very interesting, me2- can you please define "out cut?"
AEBL is known for tiny carbides, but not for a particularly long lasting edge.
 
The AEB-L blades had better performance in CATRA testing than the 52100 blades. To be clear, the advantage was small, and was evident only in the early stages of testing. As cutting continued, the advantage disappeared. Since both blades were at the same hardness overall hardness of roughly 61 HRc, the difference was attributed to the difference in hardness between the Cr7C3 and Cr23C6 carbides in the stainless and the (Fe,Cr)3C carbides in the 52100, the latter being softer than the former.
 
I really want to thank Stacy for his post...it allowed me, as a total noobie, to establish parameters on ALL the information I am trying to process about H/T'ing. I don't know enough YET to even ask questions... except one. Let's say, for example, that I have made a blade and H/T'ed it successfully. And, then I screw it up putting the final touches on it. Can I anneal it, fix my screw-up and then re-heat-treat it?
 
Depends on the steel and what equipment you have to anneal it. The simpler the steel, the more likely the answer is yes.
 
I agree with me2.
However, in most cases, there is no need to anneal the blade. Just repair the problem by grinding/sanding/etc., then re-do the HT. About all that is usually required is to dull back the edge to around .015" to .020".

If the repair needs the steel to be less hard, in most steels you can just do a sub-critical cycle ( heat to 1250F and slowly cool to 900, then quench), and then repair whatever need doing, followed by re-doing the HT.
 
Definitely some good points here and for some clarification , I only claim that I have seen an enormous jump in performance from (my) blades, same steel different HT. Second I never claimed anything I only put my HT up and a video of my testing. From this, ppl questioned me. Yes I wish I had an answer but I dont, my answer is in the video for all questions. Next I have now uploaded a new video that is uncut. So if there are some ppl who dont like my results then do your HT and test it how I have and put it for all to see.

DEVERAUX= It does not bother me that ppl know how to use a keyboard and have obviously devoted their lives to learning the art of putting ppl down. And this is why, because I have devoted my life to bettering my self, helping ppl, finding the answer before answering the question, and trying to be nice.

I do not see any of these ppl who put my heat treat down, posting their methods and videos of their knife testing.

The only thing that confuses me here is, why are you guys arguing a point that you have never tested your self? I too was one of you who did not believe but the difference is i do not argue an issue without seeing or doing the other side of the argument. How do you argue something when you only know one side of the argument, and again I dont mean reading a book I mean doing it testing it and seeing for your self.

Your not going to jump into a space shuttle and fly to the space station and back after reading how to do it are you? No you are going to want to fly an exact flight simulator and master that first right? So next time we have an argument about this please master both methods first then argue you reasons. Dont take someones word for it.
 
Id like to chime in here on the 52100..We use it a lot, I like it a lot..I have a friend here close by that is a great knife maker..He learned the triple method from Ed Im guessing(His name is Willard Lafferty) I have seen his knives and I know how good they are..Though some ailments and age have all but stopped him from knifemaking he is free with his knowledge..He heat treated in a forge so he used the triple quench method..It worked well for him..
He taught it to me and Ive used it..I used it before I had temp controlled heat treat...It did and does make a good knife..Though Ill openly admit that as soon as we were able to temp control our heat treat I stopped using it and staretd using Kevin Cashens method of heat treating 52100..
Its so much easier and simpler and I get just as good of a cutting knife..The steel comes out of the quench at about 66rc, two tempers later I end up with about 60rc, very fine grain and it cuts like a laser and cuts for a very long time..Flexs very well and holds up to abuse..Ive done it both ways and now I choose to do it this way because now I have the equipment to get the quench right the first time..Thats just the way I do it..
 
Kentucky said:
Id like to chime in here on the 52100..We use it a lot, I like it a lot..I have a friend here close by that is a great knife maker..He learned the triple method from Ed Im guessing(His name is Willard Lafferty) I have seen his knives and I know how good they are..Though some ailments and age have all but stopped him from knifemaking he is free with his knowledge..He heat treated in a forge so he used the triple quench method..It worked well for him..
He taught it to me and Ive used it..I used it before I had temp controlled heat treat...It did and does make a good knife..Though Ill openly admit that as soon as we were able to temp control our heat treat I stopped using it and staretd using Kevin Cashens method of heat treating 52100..
Its so much easier and simpler and I get just as good of a cutting knife..The steel comes out of the quench at about 66rc, two tempers later I end up with about 60rc, very fine grain and it cuts like a laser and cuts for a very long time..Flexs very well and holds up to abuse..Ive done it both ways and now I choose to do it this way because now I have the equipment to get the quench right the first time..Thats just the way I do it..
Click to expand...

I like to hear this kind of input. I have always used a temperature controlled kiln and I now use the triple everything method. But I need to add that I only make knives for my self, so it does not matter how long it takes.

Thanks for the input.
 
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