I give up I cant sharpen $#!* 2nd update page 5

okbow68 said:
I give I cant sharpen anything. Not with a whetstone, diamond stone, Lanskey, convex with mouse pad and sand paper. I am a knife dullard. I just spent three hours on an old spydeco trying the covex sharpening thing. I used the magic marker on the edge and everything went from 600 grit to 2000 and it still wont cut newspaper. I tried to sharpen another knife on my lansky system all the way down to the find diamon hone and its still rougher than a cob. Forget about free handing on a arkansas stone or a diamond stone still dull. :mad::mad::mad: What the heck this is driving me crazy. I never have been able to sharpen anything, I have tried for years and years. My dad can get a knife shaving sharp in a couple of minutes free hand. :mad::mad::mad:
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My input.
- There a couple guys on here who have offered and some who may - take them up on their offer to talk you through some things.
- Keep it simple. Take one knife and stick with it until you make the break through.
- Use your SM. Use the edges (not the flats) start with brown. Light even pressure, go for a consistent sound.
- Finish on white (edges) Lighter yet.
Give it a try. Don't rush and don't get frustrated.

Tips: Use three(3) sharpie lines on the bevel (perpendicular to the edge) front/middle/back to make sure you are sharpening the entire bevel to the edge SM angles 30/40.
On my knives that I sharpened at 30*. I finished a couple light strokes white edges at 40*. Made for some scarey sharp edges.
 
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okbow68 said:
Thanks guys. I guess I will step back to a courser grit and try it again. You are correct about not getting a well defined burr. Keep'em coming guys.
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That's the way, don't give up until you get it. Just keep trying with the coarsest grit until you have a sharp edge, finer grits are pointless until then. The course is for sharpening the edge and the finer grits are for refining the edge. Once you have created a burr on one side and then the other, then removed that burr the edge SHOULD be sharp, I just can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be.
 
Exactly right Gadgetaholic! No matter which tool or system you are using, the burr has to be up on both sides and then removed by refining with the sequentially finer stones/grits. Then and only then will you get the edge you desire!

Cheers
Leo
 
I tried the Lansky again started course got burr went finer through each step with burr on each side all the way down to the extra fine hone. Will it shave? Hell no, damn knives.
 
okbow68 said:
I tried the Lansky again started course got burr went finer through each step with burr on each side all the way down to the extra fine hone. Will it shave? Hell no, damn knives.
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Worry not, a Black Suburban will arrive at your abode in the pre-dawn hours and end your suffering.

Just kidding. Stick with it. One knife. Practice the basics until the breakthrough.
If Sharpening was easy. There would be a lot of out of work sharpeners and a lot of out of business machine makers.
BTW: I was directing you back to the SM. Perfect simple system IMO.
 
.

The Lanksy has the right idea, but inadequate execution.
Angle control is the right idea.

The Edge Pro Apex is the right idea taken to it's proper end.

I had a Lansky once upon a time and knew I was close. It would
work on some blades, but often led to frustration. Then came the Edge Pro.
It has a bit of a learning curve, but at least it leads to home base.

Check it out. It's worth every penny and then some.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY6DJ0PQxyA

best, Chris

.
 
You need to make offerings to the God of sharp edges. Offerings of money to be spent on the better sharpening systems or tools and offerings of time to be spent on understanding what you are doing.
 
I have owned a Lansky system with many stones including diamond for many years (probably 30 or more). I also have a Wicked Edge, Edge Pro Apex, Work Sharp, 12" Smiths diamond bench stones, and others. I don't use the Lansky any more, but it will easily produce shaving sharp edges.

It really helps if you get the Lansky LM010 Super C Mount Clamp, and use it on the edge of a drawer. You should EASILY achieve shaving sharp edges.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8L6NQ...e=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B000B8L6NQ

You must be doing something very obvious that causes your problems. If you could make a YouTube video of your sharpening technique, some of the many experts on this forum should easily be able to see why you are having problems.

Don't give up! You are probably just one step away from success.
 
It's an old spydeco can't remember the model. It had a plastic pocket clip that broke off long ago.
 
I've always had problems sharpening freehand, although I've had better luck using a Lansky type system. I read an article about Mora Knives and their Scandi (saber) grind. I bought a bunch of them and started practicing free hand. First smoothing out the factory grinds, then putting a better edge on them. I've spent 20 -30 hours on them. All of them will push cut newsprint with the grain and a few of them will slice the 4 corners off of a newspaper. I started with 400 grit sandpaper then 1500 grit sandpaper and finished up stropping on thin cardboard with white rouge and/or jaspar. All this mounted on plate glass. I've graduated to working on a microbevel on some of them and they've kept their sharpness. The Moras are inexpensive knives with good steel. Get one and practice sharpening the saber grind. I did my first ones using a stropping motion and focusing on keeping the bevel flat against the sand paper.
 
rayban said:
Dont do it fishface....he'll be calling you at all hours of the day and night!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
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sounds like somebodies jealous.:D
go ahead and call rich, he'll set you straight and you'll be sharpening in no time.
i don't give my number to just anybody, but rich has it, if that tells you anything.
 
okbow68 said:
It's an old spydeco can't remember the model. It had a plastic pocket clip that broke off long ago.
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Ok bow,

That might be an OLD spyderco delica or endura, i used to have a few. There was a reason the AUS8a steel was more popular in serrated....

IMO, AUS8a steel (and ats34 to a lesser degree) are the hardest of all knife steels for me to get REALLY sharp. I have a couple agrussel woodswalker blades that give me a hell of a time too. i can get them mirror bevels, I can get it to shave hair but not like snow at all. For some reason, these two elude me. The AUS steels to me seem VERY SOFT and you need the feather light touch of a pixie dust fairy to do them well....

I have no problem with nearly a dozen other steel types, just these two. I have come to realize, with the TIME I INVEST trying to sharpen these two steels, that I dont want knives that are made out of them anymore, so I am clearing out... Gave the woodswalkers away already and have an AFCK on ebay...

JC
 
Well there is a reason I was practicing on this one. I havent carried it in years. Now I remember why, cant get the darn thing sharp. I just looked at the blade and it says G2 stainless.
 
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