I have a CRK with lock rock.

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Yeah. Just report the thread and e done with it.
 
The one thing I noticed in the vid is it seems that the blade is off center, which to me says the possibility of washer misplacement. Something is way off on this knife. Not normal even if it does have lock rock which doesn't happen on the 21. Normally.
 
Haze said:
What name were you here under back in 99 ? You have only been a member here since 2012 with your "sothernknives" account ?

Is there any particular reason you don't show the stop pin in your video ? I presume it's because you removed the sleeve to get the play you were looking for ? It is just not possible to get that sort of play from just a worn lock face, there is simply not that much room. Removing or doctoring the stop pin sleeve would do that though, you even admit to replacing it your self. I can't wait to hear what Chris has to say when you send it in..... :rolleyes:

Edit: Anybody that is inclined to check will notice that removing the stop pin sleeve produces the exact results we see in the video. This is a pretty clear and obvious troll attempt. Don't get sucked in here guys. :)
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Yep! I bet the outer sleeve is missing from the blade stop pin. That's what it looks like is causing the blade play to me anyway. I smell a troll!
 
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The knife has obviously been trumped up to get the problems he wanted to show. The blade is indeed way off centre in the vid but the most telling thing is the amount of movement the blade has. It matches that of a removed stop pin sleeve to the button.... I'm sure that it's just pure coincidence though. :rolleyes: The only other way to get that amount of play would be to file down the lock face. One of the two contact points has been played with, that is for sure.

blackend said:
The one thing I noticed in the vid is it seems that the blade is off center, which to me says the possibility of washer misplacement. Something is way off on this knife. Not normal even if it does have lock rock which doesn't happen on the 21. Normally.
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That kind of issue doesn't happen overnight/gradually. There had to be a particular incident that caused it. Looks like you have a major impact indention on the end of the lockbar. Can see it at 3.00 minutes - 3.05m in the video.
 
skwurll said:
That kind of issue doesn't happen overnight/gradually. There had to be a particular incident that caused it. Looks like you have a major impact indention on the end of the lockbar. Can see it at 3.00 minutes - 3.05m in the video.
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You are correct. I missed it the first time I watched it but I can see what you are talking about. It has either been batoned or spine whacked.
 
The stop pin sleeve's in. Not cure what could have caused the problem, but that's not it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4nwXOkhiOU

southernknives said:
Now I've got a tripton telling me he doesn't think I know what rock lock is.
I've been on bladeforums since 98' member since 99' and I knew what lock rock was before then.
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Then why are you calling what you show in the video lock rock when it's clearly up-and-down blade play? :confused::confused:
 
southernknives said:
Exactly, this video was made for moxy. Who didn't believe there could be any rock lock on a sebenza.

Now I've got a tripton telling me he doesn't think I know what rock lock is.
I've been on bladeforums since 98' member since 99' and I knew what lock rock was before then.

In closing arguments I must say, you can not refute any of my statements and be correct. Last post in this thread :)
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Think? Oh I know.

I don't know what bridge you have crawled out from, but it's obvious you have some kind of ulterior motive here.

Anyone who has been here for 14 years should know what lock rock is without me having to explain it.

Oh, and if the lockbar is hard to engage, and you are the only owner. .. then YOU messed with it. It does not get stiffer with time.
 
Definately not lock rock when the blade tang isn't even making solid contact with the lockbar.
 
He mentions that he used to be a CRK dealer. Clearly he got ass hurt that he is no longer a dealer. Those videos were just flat out hilarious to watch as he kept trying to show the blade movement from different angles repeatedly like some ESPN highlight. What a clown.
 
For being a hard use knife, it looks to be in really good shape.
I have seen a few older models that had most of the blue anodizing worn off of the thumb stud and the blades fairly scuffed or scratched from hard use.
There doesn't even appear to be any marks on the handle scales. Did the knife have that much blade play when you sent it to CRK to be refurbished?

Please do advise us of the outcome.
 
This thread put me off getting a sebbie, or at least getting one and posting a potential defect here. not the op post that puts me off but how you guys are ripping into him. Sheesh. Either way, I don't like sebbie, umnumzaans are the only attractive model to me :p
 
southernknives said:
Enlighten me...please.
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I see no one responded to this. There is a difference between lock rock and blade roll.

Lock rock is the actual spring moving/slipping/walking to the unlock position.

Here is an extract from my longer framelocks posts.

"Three points of contact:
1. Stop pin
2. Pivot pin
3. Interface between blade and spring (ie, lockface/lock engagement area hereafter referred to LF) Spring is also the liner lock, framelock.

This forms a triangle.

Now, the LF is the area lets focus on first.

BT. refers to the angle of the lock face to be between 7.5 and 8.5 degrees. Les then 5 degrees and the spring will jam. More then 10 degrees and the spring will start slipping off the LF.

Now the start of a radius lock face, the maximum therefore cannot exceed 10 degrees or else the lock will start slipping when the lock wears to that point. As mentioned as lock rock in the video when referring to the Strider (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUoVPLirWg8)

Now.

Do not think the angle plays the only role in the lock slipping. The finished LF can have a rough spot, not be polished enough, the spring's interface between the LF can also play a role.

Let us examine this from the Emerson website.

http://emersonknives.com/blog/emerson-knife-anatomy/

If the LF connected to the spring more in the middle or at the top of the spring where the detent is on most (point nr 3 closer to the pivot pin nr 2) then you would experience blade roll. This is when you have vertical type play but what happens is the blade actually rolls on the spring because the spring connects in the wrong place with the LF."

If we look at your video. We can see that at the 3:15 mark the spring is not even engaging the blade. So there is no contact on the LF at any point as illustrated. The spring/titanium handle needs to be replaced. It is worn out from use. Wear and tear. It will have to go back to CRK IMO to have the problem fixed.
 
marthinus said:
I see no one responded to this. There is a difference between lock rock and blade roll.

Lock rock is the actual spring moving/slipping/walking to the unlock position.

Here is an extract from my longer framelocks posts.

"Three points of contact:
1. Stop pin
2. Pivot pin
3. Interface between blade and spring (ie, lockface/lock engagement area hereafter referred to LF) Spring is also the liner lock, framelock.

This forms a triangle.

Now, the LF is the area lets focus on first.

BT. refers to the angle of the lock face to be between 7.5 and 8.5 degrees. Les then 5 degrees and the spring will jam. More then 10 degrees and the spring will start slipping off the LF.

Now the start of a radius lock face, the maximum therefore cannot exceed 10 degrees or else the lock will start slipping when the lock wears to that point. As mentioned as lock rock in the video when referring to the Strider (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUoVPLirWg8)

Now.

Do not think the angle plays the only role in the lock slipping. The finished LF can have a rough spot, not be polished enough, the spring's interface between the LF can also play a role.

Let us examine this from the Emerson website.

http://emersonknives.com/blog/emerson-knife-anatomy/

If the LF connected to the spring more in the middle or at the top of the spring where the detent is on most (point nr 3 closer to the pivot pin nr 2) then you would experience blade roll. This is when you have vertical type play but what happens is the blade actually rolls on the spring because the spring connects in the wrong place with the LF."

If we look at your video. We can see that at the 3:15 mark the spring is not even engaging the blade. So there is no contact on the LF at any point as illustrated. The spring/titanium handle needs to be replaced. It is worn out from use. Wear and tear. It will have to go back to CRK IMO to have the problem fixed.
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Thank you for your constructive reply. Appreciate it.
 
Hey ,everyone I just figured this out. There is a typo in the OP. This model is actually the LeBenza model and not the Sebenza model. If you recall the specs on the LeBenza model lists 1.5 mm (+/- 2 mm) of bladeplay.

It was designed for those who don't require such strict manufacturing tolerances. I think some of the custom options included plastic and cardboard scales.

J/K

I hope everyone had a great 4th of July!
 
To the op, it's time to fess up. The damaged lock is plain to see in your own video so tell us how you REALLY caused the damage. Was it batoning or spine whacks? I'm betting it was spine whacking.
 
It is obvious from the first post (and more obvious from the subsequent ones) that southernknives is bored and trying to "stir the pot."

Why play his game?

If you feel yourself pulled into his bizarre world, just pull your sebenza out of your pocket, look at how it works, and that should be enough proof to show his video is fiction.
 
This thread should be closed as there is nothing constructive gained from it.......!!!
 
Karda said:
This is what happens when people decide to make youtube vids and post on forums, instead of contacting the manufacturer or reseller in the first place, as they should always do.
It leaves everyone reading to speculate. With poor explanation in the video and 0% information given in the thread, it does CRK a disservice, IMHO.
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Exactly !
A thread like this should never be started before contacting the manufacturer.

I don't see how someone that has been here since 1999 wouldn't know this :confused:

southernknives said:
I've been on bladeforums since 98' member since 99' and I knew what lock rock was before then.
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Why didn't you just ask for a name change and keep your original join date and post count ?

Also, were you at Blade this year, and are you friends with a fellow BF member/ Youtuber that was at Blade this year ?
 
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