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I just joined the Opinel Club
- Thread starter Bobadilla004
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 1,145
Hey there, congrats on the knife! I recently joined the club myself. They're pretty cool little knives for sure, nice to have something a little different. Sometimes there is beauty in simplicity!
Welcome to the club that will change your life! Never again will you find yourself buying knives you don't need for prices that don't match what you get.
I take pinnah's advice with opinels and round the corners and edges of the butt with a foam sanding block, and have flattened the sides a bit with sanding. I also, as Jackknife said, sand the edges where the blade slot is cut, as they can bite into your fingers. Melting wax is also good to do, and of course stain or soak in mineral oil after any sanding.
If it feels too small in hand, buy a size up. An opinel too small is noticeable, whereas too big doesn't feel odd at all. What wood is that handle?
Here's mine, with an easy open notch too. Tough wood to stain (beech) but the spotty staining looks like it has a lot of character, and I've sealed it with tung oil so it is safe.
Connor
I take pinnah's advice with opinels and round the corners and edges of the butt with a foam sanding block, and have flattened the sides a bit with sanding. I also, as Jackknife said, sand the edges where the blade slot is cut, as they can bite into your fingers. Melting wax is also good to do, and of course stain or soak in mineral oil after any sanding.
If it feels too small in hand, buy a size up. An opinel too small is noticeable, whereas too big doesn't feel odd at all. What wood is that handle?
Here's mine, with an easy open notch too. Tough wood to stain (beech) but the spotty staining looks like it has a lot of character, and I've sealed it with tung oil so it is safe.
Connor
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Connor, I started getting more consistent staining results when I moved to 80 grit paper. The beech grain really needs to be opened up to take the stain.
I then layer up multiple coats of top coat (I use Formby's Tung Oil Finish which has poly in it). After several coats of that, I start using finer grits between coats to get a smooth finish.
I then layer up multiple coats of top coat (I use Formby's Tung Oil Finish which has poly in it). After several coats of that, I start using finer grits between coats to get a smooth finish.
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2014
- Messages
- 1,483
That's exactly where I was and lucky No 7 fills that role perfectly.
Nice! I just picked up a No 8 slim Bubinga to complement my regular no8. I'm not sure how I feel about it. It measures 8cm but it almost feels like it's too small. Also the blade can still move a little bit when the ring lock is fully engaged, does anyone else have a similar experience with the slim ones?
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2000
- Messages
- 6,689
I have two Opinels and love 'em. These knives have two inherent issues. First, they don't hold an edge forever. I remedy this by sharpening them when they get dull. Also, when exposed to moisture the wood handles can swell and make them harder to open. This I remedy by pulling harder to open it. 
I've found that slight rock is almost always a result of poor mating of the bottom of the lock ring and the ridge on the handle that it spins on.
When I have one that does this, I inspect the lower edge carefully while wiggling the blade. I'm looking for a high spot that is acting like a fulcrum. When I find it, I mark the ring with a Sharpie, remove the ring and file down that portion of the ring edge. Essentially, you want a perfectly flat ring, or at least one that mates with the wood well.
Another thing that helps is to file the top of the down so it spins around the blade more. I go far enough that then bottom of the ring covers the blade well. This gives a more solid lock up.
Thanks! I'll be doing this as soon as the postman brings me my knife (I decided the Opi would open the package
).Connor
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
This more than anything else is important to do to a new Opinel. I've seen opines come from the factory with the locking rings barely traveling past the blade slot, let alone clearing the head of the pivot pin. The first thing I do to a new Opinel is yank off the locking ring and file the upper slanted surface where the base of the blade hits it, so the ring rotates much further around. I like it to go past where the head of the pivot pin is located.
But I've had good luck with taking the ring completely off, and after melting a load of wax into the pivot area, peen the pin down for a snug fit friction folder like old Joseph originally made it. When I found out that the locking ring was invented in 1955, I did an experiment to use the Opinel in day to day life with no lock. Just like the rest of the European peasant knives. I found out that not only is it up to the day to day tasks you would use a pocket knife for, but it is actually safer than a regular slip joint. The Opinel was a gateway drug to my friction folder obsession.
The Opinel with a Japanese Higonokami, and a Sardinian Resolza, both friction folders used my the peasants in their respective countries. Both are very good cutters of wa wide range of materials.
- Joined
- May 25, 2005
- Messages
- 560
This is a great club to be in.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2009
- Messages
- 149
They make their oyster knife in Bubinga so they might think that is a slightly more water resistant wood. If you want to end the moisture management problem once and for all just submerge your knife in Watco Teak Oil for 24 hrs in hot weather, wipe it down completely getting into the crevasses and the joint thoroughly and wipe down the blade with alcohol. Let it cure out in the sun for a day or two, wiping it down a few more times. Dab a little Vaseline into the joint and go forth.
edited to add; take the lock ring off before you soak it in the Teak Oil and put it back on after...
The Inox versions hold an edge better and longer than the carbon versions. The Inox takes just as fine an edge but it does take a little longer to hone.
This is a super light hiker's knife that has a slicing performance that is superior.
edited to add; take the lock ring off before you soak it in the Teak Oil and put it back on after...
The Inox versions hold an edge better and longer than the carbon versions. The Inox takes just as fine an edge but it does take a little longer to hone.
This is a super light hiker's knife that has a slicing performance that is superior.
Wavester, Um... with all due respect... The Opinel is a pretty unforgiving knife if you don't understand how it is to be used and adjusted. It's one thing for people in France to understand this, as it's almost a National knife and there's a deep culture there around the Opinel and the how-tos are discussed as a part of the lore in France. In this light, it's understandable how somebody in the US could buy an Opinel and not understand it at all. That certainly described my first experiences with the knife.
But where's the fault? With the knife or the the American who doesn't understand the knife?
I'm glad I stuck with the Opinel. It reveals it's value only after a lot of use and after a lot of experience. Some things I've learned not discussed in your YouTube review...
1) The joint needs to be adjusted to your liking. Flat head screwdriver twisted in the joint well will loosen it. Pliers on the inner ring (with outer lock ring removed) will tighten, as will peening the pin.
2) The joint needs to be lubricated and sealed to resist swelling. I prefer wax.
3) "Quality" includes quality of design. The blade grind will out slice and out cut any of the blades of the other knives you showed in pretty much any material but particularly in vegetables and wood. It took a few years of side by each testing to understand how amazing the convex grind is. A paper test of the factory edge is not going to reveal this. 5 lbs of potatoes and a dozen feather sticks will.
4) The joint is tougher than any of the knives you showed. Once you learn to tune the lock ring with a file, the knife will be impervious to blade rock or wobble. You'll need to abuse the knife to the point of breaking either the wooden handle itself (possible on the 8, unlikely on the 9, unheard of on the 10 for mortals) or break the blade in a vice to believe this. But the joint won't fail like nearly all other locking knives. Nor will it fail when clogged with sand. Bury all the knives in your review (including the Opinel) and then use them. The Opinel will still be functional.
5) The ergonomics of the Opinel handle is something that you should live with for a year to learn to appreciate. Try it side by each with those other knives. It's especially good for wood working.
6) As the for the blade breaking, you'd be shocked how tough it is to break it. Some reading here...http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1097460-Opinel-Pass-Around-amp-Walk-About
Again... I totally understand how you could be unimpressed with the Opinel out of the box. It is literally a foreign knife unlike any other you've ever owned. And that's the take-away I got from your video. You've obviously never owned anything like it and don't understand how to use it or tune it.
My recommendation is that you read up on the Opinel and learn more about it. It would be interesting to see you re-review it in a year or two.
But where's the fault? With the knife or the the American who doesn't understand the knife?
I'm glad I stuck with the Opinel. It reveals it's value only after a lot of use and after a lot of experience. Some things I've learned not discussed in your YouTube review...
1) The joint needs to be adjusted to your liking. Flat head screwdriver twisted in the joint well will loosen it. Pliers on the inner ring (with outer lock ring removed) will tighten, as will peening the pin.
2) The joint needs to be lubricated and sealed to resist swelling. I prefer wax.
3) "Quality" includes quality of design. The blade grind will out slice and out cut any of the blades of the other knives you showed in pretty much any material but particularly in vegetables and wood. It took a few years of side by each testing to understand how amazing the convex grind is. A paper test of the factory edge is not going to reveal this. 5 lbs of potatoes and a dozen feather sticks will.
4) The joint is tougher than any of the knives you showed. Once you learn to tune the lock ring with a file, the knife will be impervious to blade rock or wobble. You'll need to abuse the knife to the point of breaking either the wooden handle itself (possible on the 8, unlikely on the 9, unheard of on the 10 for mortals) or break the blade in a vice to believe this. But the joint won't fail like nearly all other locking knives. Nor will it fail when clogged with sand. Bury all the knives in your review (including the Opinel) and then use them. The Opinel will still be functional.
5) The ergonomics of the Opinel handle is something that you should live with for a year to learn to appreciate. Try it side by each with those other knives. It's especially good for wood working.
6) As the for the blade breaking, you'd be shocked how tough it is to break it. Some reading here...http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1097460-Opinel-Pass-Around-amp-Walk-About
Again... I totally understand how you could be unimpressed with the Opinel out of the box. It is literally a foreign knife unlike any other you've ever owned. And that's the take-away I got from your video. You've obviously never owned anything like it and don't understand how to use it or tune it.
My recommendation is that you read up on the Opinel and learn more about it. It would be interesting to see you re-review it in a year or two.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 3,404
^
I understand where you are coming from on this Pinnah, but I think that a lot of people don't have the time, patience, or motivation to do all the things you suggest. Some people don't necessarily want to have to do all these modifications to a knife to get it function to its full potential. They, like me, like to be able to pull a knife out of the package and use it. I know that you can do this with an Opinel, but it wont be ideal. I also understand that for the price they charge it might not be realistic to expect more, but, personally, I would prefer that they came from the factory the way you describe and I would be willing to pay a lot more for one in that condition.
I understand where you are coming from on this Pinnah, but I think that a lot of people don't have the time, patience, or motivation to do all the things you suggest. Some people don't necessarily want to have to do all these modifications to a knife to get it function to its full potential. They, like me, like to be able to pull a knife out of the package and use it. I know that you can do this with an Opinel, but it wont be ideal. I also understand that for the price they charge it might not be realistic to expect more, but, personally, I would prefer that they came from the factory the way you describe and I would be willing to pay a lot more for one in that condition.
Jstrange, you and Carl are in the same camp. I once knew a guy who thru hiked the AT in Limmer boots. He posted a review to rec.backcountry (I'm dating myself) saying, "I love these boots. You'll probably hate them." The Opinel is that way. It's very definitely not for everybody. They are futzy. Very high futz factor.
Zen and the Art of Opinel Maintenance?
Zen and the Art of Opinel Maintenance?
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 3,404
Don't get me wrong, I love the design, I am just inherently lazy
I have had a few and still have a 12. I will likely pick up an 8 or 9 again sometime. I just wish they were a tad more waterproof and the lock-ring came from the factory with a slightly better lock-up. I know I can sit by and wish, or do something about it, but remember I am lazy!
You should start selling them with the Pinnah mods. I would probably buy a few of you.
I have had a few and still have a 12. I will likely pick up an 8 or 9 again sometime. I just wish they were a tad more waterproof and the lock-ring came from the factory with a slightly better lock-up. I know I can sit by and wish, or do something about it, but remember I am lazy!
You should start selling them with the Pinnah mods. I would probably buy a few of you.
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