I some help/your opinions on a project

Wow Gordon,

Very nice work....your custom 110 turned out sweet!!! Keep the photo's coming. Show us the new project problems;)

jb4570
 
scale removal:
glued newer scales: soak in acetone like nail polish remover or a thin paint remover.. this will take over 3 days and as long as 5 days...
once removed from soak use a singel edge box cutter blade or e-Xacto knife blade to gently wedge the scale in several spots along the brass it should lift easly..
the old glued scales should work like this also but you also have the rivets to deal with as below...

if it has rivets :
take and File the rocker rivet to remove the expanded head you will have to file lightly in to the wood to do this and you have to do it on both sides ..
take a e-Xtacto knife and draw it along the edge of the brass and wood at the crack as if you were cutting apart..
start with light pressure as if only scoring tissue paper..
this to avoid the blade "jumping" and cutting the wood or scratching the brass
repleted strokes with increasing pressure will at one point allow you to start insertion of the blade..
you will work the blade in under the scale...lifting it only a blade with..
you will next work a wider blade in a 503 blade works well then you will push the blade on past throught to the other side this lifts the scale more and you will staret to see the rivits pulling throught he holes in the brass.. a flat screw driver that fits now can be pup in and twisted to have the inlays clear every thing..
i have yet to split a non glued scale doing this slowly and carefully
 
Show us the new project problems
Click to expand...

Here you go JB. Note the ugly holes in rear bolsters and spacer.

DSC_0663.jpg
 
ooops.... are they too deep to sand out? The scales don't look like they were epoxied down, and this was a 2008, 110, right? Were you using a pin punch and hammer or an arbor press to disassemble?

Here's an idea... maybe not a good one, but..... The Micarta you have, Green/Brown, would look nice if you get some contour to it. The layers show up nice with some contour rather than flat. If you have to do a lot of sanding on the bolsters, to remove the nicks, you might contour the bolster up to the Micarta and back down to the front bolster.... does that make sense? Might look cool....might not....my beers empty....later...
 
Contouring micarta makes it look alot better. Buck did use ebony on their 110's for 30yrs.. DM
 
Warriorsociologist said:
Great - thanks! Now, I think the answer is "no," but will acetone hurt the G-10 or the Micarta liners?
Click to expand...
dayum i hate talking my self right outa some thing :(:foot:...
gota learn to keep me mouth closed...:o
Hurt micarta or g10 ?! i don't think so...;)
i worked with both materials in the nuclear industry and it did not then ..
David Martin said:
Contouring micarta makes it look alot better. Buck did use ebony on their 110's for 30yrs.. DM
Click to expand...
no they did not...
it was one of several solid woods that were used at differing times..
bui dont keep record of details like that but some one here will know..
now the standard is a laminated dyed wood which i think is birch.. MUCH more stable and durable.. and not bad looking either as a user handle!
i like purdy knives.
 
334dave said:
dayum i hate talking my self right outa some thing :(:foot:...
gota learn to keep me mouth closed...:o
Click to expand...

Dave - did you catch I said you could have my G-10 scales if I can get them off without wrecking them?

Warriorsociologist said:
Yep [Dave, this was in response to your question above this post] - and I still owe you a phone call. ;) Any tips on how to get off the G-10 scales without damaging them too much?
Click to expand...

You still want them - right?
 
Buck did use ebony on their 110's for 30yrs.. DM
Click to expand...

no they did not...
it was one of several solid woods that were used at differing times..
bui dont keep record of details like that but some one here will know..
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that Buck used Macassar Ebony on the 110 until the switch to Obeechee (the lam stuff). So I thought David was correct. Dave are you saying that's wrong...Hummh. I'd like to hear some more on this:confused:

BTW David, the Gabon Ebony is very Black & Macassar ebony (golden macassar) is well...you know what it looks like. Earlier in the thread I said I could not remember seeing Ebony I was thinking of the Gabon version.
 
Warriorsociologist said:
Dave - did you catch I said you could have my G-10 scales if I can get them off without wrecking them?
You still want them - right?
Click to expand...
some how i thought you change your mind on taking them off as it was a lot of work... gee i get confused ... little mind and it leaks!
yep i would ! :):):):):):):):):)
dugh !!! now i see the error of speach i made!!
you thoughnt the acatone would not hurt the g10!!! wow .. been a long day..
flatlander check your email..

you are correct in that it was Madagascar not gabon..
some of what buck used was very black with jest a few dark brown streaks..
some light not sure of when .. they also used lignaum vanlity.. (sp)
 
Last edited:
Interesting problem there Gordon. Here is an idea for a fix...what do you think?

Remove the rear bolster



jb4570
 
Flatlander1963 said:
Here you go JB. Note the ugly holes in rear bolsters and spacer.
Click to expand...

An arbor press from Harbor Freight would have eliminated that (and set you back ~$48 :D )...but for the scale rivets, you don't have to drill them all the way through...just drill the peened portion off [the inner part of the rivet], and they will push right out...without harming the scales...

I like that wood you used...nice and dense; no streaking... :)
 
Here is an idea for a fix...what do you think?
Click to expand...

I like it. That design is called boarshead something like that. That is a fairly easy thing with the Cootes. I am worried about strength of the liner/bolster with enlarged holes. I'll think about it this morning...but I'm leaning towards it with the Micarta.

Trax,

Yeap...I think a press arbor is in my future. How about telling me about arbor punches and dies etc. I assume the press comes with a very basic assortment of punches..like three. After that, where is the best place to get them. Also, what like press, a 1 ton or larger?

I like that wood you used...nice and dense; no streaking
Click to expand...

That Cocobolo is nice wood. Credit Pack Rat with the Tru-Oil idea:thumbup: it really brought out the rich color of the wood.
 
Last edited:
mainewoodsman said:
Maybe I'm wrong but didn't Buck use Walnut scales on some of the 110's?
Click to expand...

YEP 'dey used not only walnut - they used maple burl, iron wood, oak, and a few other woods.. i heard that they experimented with other woods reacently

i had Arksknives put some 200+ year old chestnut on a knife for me were i was chicken to try it my self..:eek:

gee looks like some one has a new hobby tinkering with sharp things... :rolleyes::D welcome to the asylum!;)
 
Flatlander1963 said:
Yeap...I think a press arbor is in my future. How about telling me about arbor punches and dies etc. I assume the press comes with a very basic assortment of punches..like three. After that, where is the best place to get them. Also, what like press, a 1 ton or larger?
Click to expand...

Doesn't come with *any* punches/dies... :D

I use cut down needle scaler needles...They're .120" dia...but drill rod will do...I think DarrellS uses old nails... :p

Drill a hole in a piece of 1/4" x whatever scrap steel strap for your die...locate your pins by the "Houser jeans rub" and make a pinprick in the center...position your punch over the pin and the steel strap/hole under it...punch it out! :cool::thumbup:

One ton press minimum. Anything smaller won't cut it. The bolster holes will measure ~.130" after punching the old pins out, but when you crush the new .125" pins in, they'll expand nicely...just leave 1/16" sticking out each side (make the pins 1/8" overlength)...file/sand/buff...Viola! (that's French)... :)

Jantz and Texas Knife both have brass and nickel silver 1/8" rod suitable for making your new pins...

Hmmm...hey DarrellS, what else???
 
Doesn't come with *any* punches/dies...

I use cut down needle scaler needles...They're .120" dia...but drill rod will do...I think DarrellS uses old nails...

Drill a hole in a piece of 1/4" x whatever scrap steel strap for your die...locate your pins by the "Houser jeans rub" and make a pinprick in the center...position your punch over the pin and the steel strap/hole under it...punch it out!

One ton press minimum. Anything smaller won't cut it. The bolster holes will measure ~.130" after punching the old pins out, but when you crush the new .125" pins in, they'll expand nicely...just leave 1/16" sticking out each side (make the pins 1/8" overlength)...file/sand/buff...Viola! (that's French)...

Jantz and Texas Knife both have brass and nickel silver 1/8" rod suitable for making your new pins...
Click to expand...

Hey Thanks...I'll look into a press this week-end.

For Supplies I've been using these guys: http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php

I decided to go with JB's suggestion on taking off the rear bolster. Here's were I'm at. Both sides are grounded and glued. I'm going to let them sit a bit while I feed my little buddies and have some supper myself. Then the profiling, pinning and contouring begins. I'm going to do palm swells to highlight the micarta.

DSC_0666.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top