I some help/your opinions on a project

Just an Update: Got the Spring Holder from Pete/Joe today so I'll try to work on the knife in the morning as I have plans tonight. On a side note, I may have to replace the bushing as well but I'm hoping not so with luck this project will be a done deal in the AM tomorrow.

Thanks Mike for the mat. Got it today also. It looks real good and I really appreciate the extra. The texture feels nice and I think it'll make good scale. Maybe its the next project...just have to decide on a knife.

Thanks all. g
 
You're welcome, have fun with it. How does it feel in comparison to the Buck rubber scales?

Looking forward to seeing pics of your Micarta 110 when you get her together......
 
I've got the knife back together. It has a couple of a major faults and couple other small issues. But it locks up tight, no blade wiggle...so I'm calling it an OK result. Probably need to buff up the scale some more but here it is as of now.
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That looks very nice to me. I did not inherit my father's shop gene so my hat it off to you for being able to do that.

Regards,

BJ
 
Flatlander1963 said:
I've got the knife back together. It has a couple of a major faults and couple other small issues. But it locks up tight, no blade wiggle...so I'm calling it an OK result. Probably need to buff up the scale some more but here it is as of now.
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well i for one do not see any issue with your buck!!!
looking good to me!!!
you were braver then i to take it apart and work on it.
fact is ... well i am thinking of trying it now because of your work!!
i am harder on my work then others..we all are..
i was told it is the craftsman in us coming out..

i think some one should start a "buck work" tinkering thread
and make it a sticky ...
might inspire more to make their buck there own way!

BTW: how does that horse mat feel?
 
Gordon,

All I can say is nice work. You can send it to me and I'll send you another 110 to customize ;). It looks just fine to me I see no issues with your new 110. Keep up the good work and keep the photo's coming.

jb4570
 
Thanks for the positive feedback. But I went back out to the shop and took some add'l pics to highlight the problem/fault. Its not something that effects functionablity but its not something acceptable. I guess the good news is I know percisely how I got it this way and it shouldn't happen again. I still like the knife...its been bobbing around in my pocket all afternoon.

Note the blade angle and rocker protrusion
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I really like the way those scales came out, nice work. What caused the issue with the rocker and blade (asking in case I ever have opportunity to mod one)?
 
Mike,

When I decided to take the knife apart I made the impatient decision to drill the three bolster pins because my pin punch bent and blah, blah, blah. To make matters worse, I used what I thought was a 1/8 bit. Turned out to be a 9/64th. Since I had the bushing/blade pin punched about an 1/8 out, the drilling only slighted nicked the bushing (I'll skip the breakdown on the two back pins). Plus, the bit ran off at a slight angle.

So now I've got an enlarged hole in the bolster and its slightly off center and tilting slightly. Ditto for the blade bushing. So I thought about my options out of this mess. First was what I did which was try to redrill with a 5/32 hole in the bolster and bushing. Didn't work because I was unable to take the off center/tilt problem out of either. The combined creep on the bolster and bushing resulted in the blade being positioned as you see it. I was again impatient and went ahead instead ordering a new bushing (option 2) and waiting.

What I should have done was ordered a replacement bushing from the knife maker supply guys I use and tried to redrill the bolster at a 1/4 and plug/peen the new larger hole. Now, I probably could drill the 1/8th hole correctly centered.

If I decide to take another of my 110/112s apart I will get/find the use of an Arbor press for controlled pushing. The pin holes are OK, bushing is OK, and all the holes stay square.

I think you can do a barehead without taking the knife apart and that's the way I'm going if I get all torqued up and try another one.

The whole thing blew up in my face due to impatience and doing something I'd never done before. In the end, I turned a brand new knife that worked perfectly into something interesting looking but with issues.

All that said I had fun and learned some does and don'ts and ended up with a different and interesting looking 110 that still does everthing its supposed too. It's just a little cockeyed. ;)
 
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Thanks for the explanation. Definitely sounds like the arbor press is the way to go for breaking these down.

I noticed earlier in this thread that you have a Coote grinder. My grinder is need of replacing/upgrading, are you happy with the Coote?
 
Mike I really like the grinder. It is a good piece, well made and belt change is a snap. It is easy to get it to track etc. I fabbed up the stand its on using a table saw stand and scrap from the shop job. The picture I posted is the one I sent to Norm Coote to see if I had the thing mounted right. Well I didn't so I moved it to the edge of the stand so the wheel was not over the table top. It does have a little shake to it due to its vertical design and the stand I've got it on. Makes strait hollow grind lines troublesome. But otherwise, its a peach and is doing everything I need in fine fashion.

If you get a Coote you'll need to suppy your own motor and do you own electrical switch work. So it gets into being moderately pricey. Here is what I'm in to it for:

10x72 Grinder, attachments, options, & Shipping: $650
1hp 1750rpm motor off the Bay (a 10yr old spare): $110
Craftman table saw stand off the Bay: $ 35

Even at $800, (seemed a lot to me) its still considered an economy entry level grinder. Also, I made a great deal on that motor. A 1hp 1750 can easily run over 3 times that NIB, from manufacturer.

The thing is you got to have one or something similiar if you gonna play with knives even just as a hobby like me.
 
The Coote certainly looks like a well made machine. From the attachments I see on their website it appears to be a well thought out as well. I was looking at the Grizzly belt grinder. Comments from some knifemakers seem to indicate that the Grizzly has some drawbacks, while others seem to think it an adequate tool. The Coote looks like a better grinder. Thanks for the info....
 
Mike,

I looked at the grizzly before I bought the Cootes. The advantages on it are attractive price and a complete unit. Plug and run. It is a buffer combination. I don't know if the belt idler tilts back for improved access to the 10in wheel. That is a negative if it doesn't. You can grind blades on it from what I read but its not for the real serious knifemaker. If you can pop for the Cootes go for it. Norms a good guy.

Having lived with a belt grinder and having spent the last year with the Cootes...I now firmly think every shop needs one, even if you're not planning to be the next Loveless so the Grizz should be an option.
 
I've popped the barehead scale off the frame as the knife was really fubar'ed after I got going with the drill press.

Anyway, Plum that's my barehead project. Sometime shortly, I'm going to but those scale on another knife...maybe one of the web special serrated knives. g
 
Flatlander1963 said:
I've popped the barehead scale off the frame as the knife was really fubar'ed after I got going with the drill press.

Anyway, Plum that's my barehead project. Sometime shortly, I'm going to but those scale on another knife...maybe one of the web special serrated knives. g
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Thanks for bumping this up. Very interesting.:thumbup:
 
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