I'm a sharpening Kung Fu Master!

WadeF said:
We need to come up with a good name for those of us who are obsessed with sharpening. Sharpies? Sharpinators? Sharpmiesters? Sharp Freaks?
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Sharpasaurus?
I'll try the splitting hair thing someday, but I haven't been nearly as obsessive since I quit drinking. :D
 
fulloflead said:
This is what I get and I use the white and red:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00902896000

I've never used the others. You could try it and let us know. :confused:
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I get my strop compounds from HandAmerican. They have a great selection of compounds, available dry or liquid.

If you want an ideal "final" strop compound, to finish off that edge, get the 0.5 Micron Chromium Oxide Liquid compound. It's a premixed liquid that applied really easily to your leather (or even cardboard or heavy paper, in a pinch! (amazing how convenient that can be)).

If you want a dry compound, they have a great selection available. You can get dry Silicon Carbide compound in grits from 100 - 1200, or the powdered Chromium Oxide in 0.5 Micron (as above, but dry). They can be be used dry (especially with the rougher leathers), or with a honing oil that they offer as a mix for use with the dry compounds, too.

Finally, for sharpening the really tough tool steels, D2, A2, etc, you might want to get the super hard Boron Carbide compound. It's available in 6 micron (3600 grit) and 1.8 micron (13000 grit), and it's in a liquid form.

I've been using their stuff for a little while now, and I've been really happy with it.
 
Lee Valley sell sheets of Chromium Oxide , Peel and stick polishing tape.
Also for an even better selection
Click here for PSA backed polishing tape

I think its around 12,000 grit. Its the same stuff ( green ) many people use as a dressing on their strops.

When used as the last operation in the EdgePro, I think it is just about the same as using an actual strop.

Something else I have learnt using these high grit polishing tapes, They still form a burr up to about 6,000. Very small , but its there. Some steels more than others.

All fun stuff.
 
I bought some leather today to get a strop going, but the only buffing compound I could find was some jewlelers rouge, and some stuff called emery which seems to be the one for removing imperfections. I also bought a lansky sharpener for about 20 bucks.

The one question I have is what side of the strop do I put the finer compound on, the smooth I assume?
 
It amazes me how this thread which is 2 1/2 years old suddenly got resurrected by someone and is getting a lot of positive feedback.

I wonder what other "gems" are lurking out there that would appeal to a large audience again today. I suspect that a large number of us weren't involved in this forum 2 1/2 years ago.

I never have figured out the Archive section on this forum.
 
all that i have are crappy knifes well compared to what u all have like mteck and what not. well i have a stone system 3 diffrent ones but i have blades that can never get sharp at all . if a blade is super dull what is the first thing to do. and any other things to keep in mind ?
 
fireburn1134 said:
all that i have are crappy knifes well compared to what u all have like mteck and what not. well i have a stone system 3 diffrent ones but i have blades that can never get sharp at all . if a blade is super dull what is the first thing to do. and any other things to keep in mind ?
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if they are really junk knives like frost or "pakistan", they are not worth trying to sharpen. Also, some "commemorative" or "collectors" knives have fake blades that arent even intended to be sharpened. If it is a real knife, it should be sharpenable. If the edge is really thick and unsharpened you might need to use a grinder(carefully)
 
I find a paperback with grainy pages then I put the Hand American chromium oxide on a page. It strops better than leather for me. When a page gets worn just tear it out and put compound on the next page. It acts like a mouse pad when you strop.
 
We started a new forum!
ThreadMoving.jpg
 
Fulloflead thanks! Will your system work on a Spyderco Merlin Hawkbill plain edge? I need to reprofile from the 25 degrees per side the previous owner put on it. The Gatco hones seem very ackward on the concave blade, and the sharpmaker brown stones are too sloow. What do you recommend? Thanks!
 
steeldust said:
Fulloflead thanks! Will your system work on a Spyderco Merlin Hawkbill plain edge? I need to reprofile from the 25 degrees per side the previous owner put on it. The Gatco hones seem very ackward on the concave blade, and the sharpmaker brown stones are too sloow. What do you recommend? Thanks!
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The Lansky stones are narrower so they'll be a little less awkward. I use an EdgePro now which has wide stones, but everything else is pretty much the same except that it's REALLY hard to keep the knife perfectly still, so sometimes I don't get quite as quality edge with the EdgePro, but it's about twice as fast, so it's worth it.

Mostly, I just don't reprofile hawk-blades. The last time I did it, I used the corner of a Norton benchstone. I'm using benchstones a lot more now because I'm trying to build my freehand skills back after being lazy for so long using systems.

Dang, you dug up an OLD thread!

.
 
fulloflead! Thanks for your response. I read somewhere about sandpaper on a pencil. Course emery paper glued to an arrow shaft ought to work to reprofile that hawkbill! Sounds like fun to try! :)
 
steeldust said:
fulloflead! Thanks for your response. I read somewhere about sandpaper on a pencil. Course emery paper glued to an arrow shaft ought to work to reprofile that hawkbill! Sounds like fun to try! :)
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That's a good one. I hadn't heard that. Let us know how it works out...

...in a new thread. :D ;) :thumbup:

.
 
Today, using 3M 1 micron AO polishing cloth and 3M 0.3 microns AO lapping film; both on float glass from Hand American; I got my sharpest edge. It's on a thinned-out ZDP Caly3 and it not only whittles hairs, very fine hairs will cut themselves when dragged over the edge.

Here's a pic at 60x magnification:

60xcaly3.jpg


w00t!
 
Talk about thread revivial, but I'm kinda glad, I guess I should buy a strop as well as a DMT Fine/X-Fine DuoSharp 10" eep money $$$, but good stuff to know.
 
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