Impressions of the Bark River Golok, Upswept Tip

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Your 14 post in this thread have been noted. Thank you for sharing your opinions and thoughts with us.
 
I had a couple Barkie goloks that were chopping monsters. An original in 1084 and another in A2. I had the A2 professional thinned out and convexed by Norcalblacktail (Nate) and to this day is one of the sharpest knives I have handled. Never saw any chipping even with the thinner edge.
 
I had a couple Barkie goloks that were chopping monsters. An original in 1084 and another in A2. I had the A2 professional thinned out and convexed by Norcalblacktail (Nate) and to this day is one of the sharpest knives I have handled. Never saw any chipping even with the thinner edge.

I know Nate has reprofiled quite a few busse's and I am curious as to how he would compare this knife in 3v to a Rucki (if they choose to make one in 3v, just a for now).

I am a fan of this blade shape. It looks to be quite nimble, great at delimbing smaller trees and brush work.

I would think for more grass work, I would want a bit more mass via blade height ala Latin machete and for heavier chopping, mass in the form of more spine thickness.

The clip point version is nice but this upswept model is Very eye appealing.
 
Wow, this has really taken on a life of it's own. For the record, the chipping is pretty small, and there's a good chance I did hit the ground a couple of times and just didn't notice it. I would rather it have come out less scathed, for sure. I may hone the edge and never have another issue with it.
 
I don't want to say that it is common, but on hand finished blades, heating the edge can happen. I personally have had it on a Becker, and read of other Beckers, Esses, and other brands.
Do I hold it against them? No, it is a tool. Arguably, with a modicum of further refinement on one side than the other.

The advice offered by Ethan Becker of Becker Knives is to sharpen past the chips and see that it is corrected. It is common enough that a simple sharpening is all that is normally needed.

Fwiw, I would check with KSF to make sure that doing so wouldn't void any return policy. If it does, play it safe and leave it untouched and let them settle it.
 
I don't want to say that it is common, but on hand finished blades, heating the edge can happen. I personally have had it on a Becker, and read of other Beckers, Esses, and other brands.
Do I hold it against them? No, it is a tool. Arguably, with a modicum of further refinement on one side than the other.

The advice offered by Ethan Becker of Becker Knives is to sharpen past the chips and see that it is corrected. It is common enough that a simple sharpening is all that is normally needed.

Fwiw, I would check with KSF to make sure that doing so wouldn't void any return policy. If it does, play it safe and leave it untouched and let them settle it.


This is right on the money. I never hold chipping on the original factory edge as an issue until it has been resharpened a few times. It is easy to burn an edge in steel when using power tools. Hand sharpening takes to long and I don't think any manufacturer sharpens knives without the use of power tools.
 
Nothing useful to add, other than on my BR Golok, which I requested with the saex tip before they were even offering it as an option, it would be in perfectly pristine condition if I had never used it :) But I did, and it has done great as a trail-maintenance and bushwacking blade (what I bought it for). My only "complaint" is one I have with a lot of Bark River knives - the handle is too slick. That, of course, can be fixed in multiple ways. Anyway, good, useful knife, IMO. I should add, that upswept tip version looks great !
 
This is right on the money. I never hold chipping on the original factory edge as an issue until it has been resharpened a few times. It is easy to burn an edge in steel when using power tools. Hand sharpening takes to long and I don't think any manufacturer sharpens knives without the use of power tools.

Great point
 
I searched and found this with problem on very light use
1340893156-IMG951576.jpg


I also found this:
[video=youtube;p4ss8NtqEkw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ss8NtqEkw[/video]

It seems to be issue with BRKT
 
To be fair, I have seen photos of frozen wood chip 1095, 52100 and busse's sr101... that golok got what was coming to it. Use an axe or a saw for frozen wood.

Edit: just about all of the photos shown can be explained by the explanation I gave earlier regarding the burned edge. All except for the snapped tang which is likely from a stress riser from a 90° angle in the transition, or the first photo which looks to be a failed rod test or conchoidal fractures from an improper HT which happens to All companies.

My money will be spent regarding How they managed the warranty work.
 
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This thread is hilarious. First guy gets caught in such a web of lies he wants his account deleted. Now this guy is just posting pictures of broken knives with not one bit of context. Completely meaningless.
 
Couldn't remember why I had you on ignore,,, thanks for the reminder!

I bet he was on there because of the Esee hate thread. That is how he got on mine. If he had any of the experience he claims he would know that the factory edge can suffer such damage, which to me, didn't look too bad at all
 
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